Haltech Haltech Installation Diagrams and Setup Tips
03-29-11 | 11:33 AM
#79
Hey guys,
Just a quick one.. Im installing a ps1000 on my 12at and ive got a ARC2 CDI unit to fire the leading and just wanted to find out what i should use for the trailing. i have a set of s4 trailing coils or if i should go the ls1/2 coil?
Many thanks
Just a quick one.. Im installing a ps1000 on my 12at and ive got a ARC2 CDI unit to fire the leading and just wanted to find out what i should use for the trailing. i have a set of s4 trailing coils or if i should go the ls1/2 coil?
Many thanks
07-03-11 | 04:16 PM
#81
ive just wired my ps1000 onto my 12at and on the air temp sensor i have it showing red in the gauge console ive created.
i see in the haltech cd that you the gm air temp sensor calibration but when i go to upload or import it in i cant select it..
Does this showing red in the gauge console mean it doesnt have the sensor calibration?? If so how do i upload / import it???
any help is appreciated..
i see in the haltech cd that you the gm air temp sensor calibration but when i go to upload or import it in i cant select it..
Does this showing red in the gauge console mean it doesnt have the sensor calibration?? If so how do i upload / import it???
any help is appreciated..
07-17-11 | 09:27 PM
#83
Hi all, I just finished wiring up my PS1000 with long flying lead kit on a stock FC CAS and ignition system. Went and try to start it after setting up the ecu, but NO SPARK.
Here are some observations:
- there's fuel, I smell it in exhaust
- there's power to injectors, coils, fuel pump, and ecu, I checked
- 1 weird thing happening, ecu will turn on even Without the ecu fuse, as long as pink wire is hooked up then ecu will turn on. (I checked it over and over again, I am sure I did all the red and black wires correctly, I don't know if this is normal)
- I suspect it's the CAS + Coils wiring, because when I was doing it the color coding experienced on the car was conflicting with the diagram provided
Here's what I did in regards of CAS and Coils wiring:
Car wire -> plug wire -> Haltech wire (*** are the ones with color conflict)
CAS white -> white -> green main trigger (-)
CAS red -> red -> yellow main trigger (+)
***CAS green -> green -> yellow home trigger (+)
***CAS white/black -> blue -> green home trigger (-)
Lead Coil pink -> green/yellow -> yellow/black ignition 1
***Lead Coil greyish -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
Trailing Coil white -> brown/yellow -> yellow/brown ignition 3
Trailing Coil pink -> blue/yellow -> yellow/red ignition 2
Trailing Coil yellow -> yellow/blue -> XX (went back to stock harness for Tach)
Trailing Coil grey - > blue/red -> XX (not used, so cut and taped)
(yellow/green ignition 4 on haltech side not used as per diagram)
***Trailing coil greyish #1 -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
***Trailing coil greyish #2 -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
the wiring was based on a diagram sent to me through email from haltech
it is the same diagram posted in this post for S4 FC Stock setup
Someone please point me in the right direction or confirm that I did the right thing
since the wire colors were conflicting, I hooked it up based on best knowledge
ie. for the CAS, I ignored coloring and hooked it up home trigger (+) to home trigger (+)
and so on
For the coils, the black/yellow were obviously the power wires because they were separate plugs and are thicker gauge wires
Here are some observations:
- there's fuel, I smell it in exhaust
- there's power to injectors, coils, fuel pump, and ecu, I checked
- 1 weird thing happening, ecu will turn on even Without the ecu fuse, as long as pink wire is hooked up then ecu will turn on. (I checked it over and over again, I am sure I did all the red and black wires correctly, I don't know if this is normal)
- I suspect it's the CAS + Coils wiring, because when I was doing it the color coding experienced on the car was conflicting with the diagram provided
Here's what I did in regards of CAS and Coils wiring:
Car wire -> plug wire -> Haltech wire (*** are the ones with color conflict)
CAS white -> white -> green main trigger (-)
CAS red -> red -> yellow main trigger (+)
***CAS green -> green -> yellow home trigger (+)
***CAS white/black -> blue -> green home trigger (-)
Lead Coil pink -> green/yellow -> yellow/black ignition 1
***Lead Coil greyish -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
Trailing Coil white -> brown/yellow -> yellow/brown ignition 3
Trailing Coil pink -> blue/yellow -> yellow/red ignition 2
Trailing Coil yellow -> yellow/blue -> XX (went back to stock harness for Tach)
Trailing Coil grey - > blue/red -> XX (not used, so cut and taped)
(yellow/green ignition 4 on haltech side not used as per diagram)
***Trailing coil greyish #1 -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
***Trailing coil greyish #2 -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
the wiring was based on a diagram sent to me through email from haltech
it is the same diagram posted in this post for S4 FC Stock setup
Someone please point me in the right direction or confirm that I did the right thing
since the wire colors were conflicting, I hooked it up based on best knowledge
ie. for the CAS, I ignored coloring and hooked it up home trigger (+) to home trigger (+)
and so on
For the coils, the black/yellow were obviously the power wires because they were separate plugs and are thicker gauge wires
01-12-12 | 02:48 AM
#85
Ok, here's one for you...
I have an E11v2 but I will be using a brand new PS2K harness. I've been told that the harnesses are the same other than the fact that I'll have to add my own serial cable. No problem there.
My question is this: When I wire the CAS (13B-RE), which wire colors will I be using? I won't have the harness in hand for another day or so, but I'd like to have this straight ahead of time.
According to the PS2K to 20B diagram, I would be doing this:
Main trigger - (green) to white CAS
Main trigger + (yellow) to red CAS
Main home + (yellow) to blue CAS
Main home - (green) to white/black CAS.
The problem is that the E11 doesn't use the green wire on the Main trigger nor the yellow wire on the Home trigger.
If I look at the ECU pins that are being used, I see 1 and 14 for the Main and 2 and 14 for the Home. The 14 pins have a blue wire from them.
So basically, I just need to run:
Main trigger - (BLUE) to white CAS
Main trigger + (yellow) to red CAS
Main home + (yellow) to blue CAS
Main home - (BLUE) to white/black CAS.
Is this correct?
Are there any other "gotchas" I need to look out for?
Thanks!
Reese
I have an E11v2 but I will be using a brand new PS2K harness. I've been told that the harnesses are the same other than the fact that I'll have to add my own serial cable. No problem there.
My question is this: When I wire the CAS (13B-RE), which wire colors will I be using? I won't have the harness in hand for another day or so, but I'd like to have this straight ahead of time.
According to the PS2K to 20B diagram, I would be doing this:
Main trigger - (green) to white CAS
Main trigger + (yellow) to red CAS
Main home + (yellow) to blue CAS
Main home - (green) to white/black CAS.
The problem is that the E11 doesn't use the green wire on the Main trigger nor the yellow wire on the Home trigger.
If I look at the ECU pins that are being used, I see 1 and 14 for the Main and 2 and 14 for the Home. The 14 pins have a blue wire from them.
So basically, I just need to run:
Main trigger - (BLUE) to white CAS
Main trigger + (yellow) to red CAS
Main home + (yellow) to blue CAS
Main home - (BLUE) to white/black CAS.
Is this correct?
Are there any other "gotchas" I need to look out for?
Thanks!
Reese
01-12-12 | 11:34 AM
#86
This is complicated because the E-series and Platinum work a bit differently. The harness colors are the same, but you need to use different pins to make the connections. So, a diagram for the Sport is not going to work for the E-series.
You need to use the Blue/Yellow pair for the trigger input (12 tooth wheel). Blue is VE- and Yellow is VE+.
Use the Green/Yellow pair for the home input (2 tooth wheel). Green is VE- and Yellow is VE+.
You need to use the Blue/Yellow pair for the trigger input (12 tooth wheel). Blue is VE- and Yellow is VE+.
Use the Green/Yellow pair for the home input (2 tooth wheel). Green is VE- and Yellow is VE+.
01-12-12 | 07:56 PM
#87
Chris,
Go back and take a look if you would to verify that I'm not losing my mind. I understand and agree that the pins aren't quite the same, but if I follow the colors you noted, the yellow wouldn't connect to anything at the ECU side of the E11 on the Home harness. Did you mean to say "use the Blue/Green pair for the home input"?
In other words, as long as my trigger VE- and VE+ go to pins 14 and 1 respectively, and my home VE- and VE+ go to pins 14 and 2, I'm good, regardless of the wire color, yes?
Thanks for the response!
Go back and take a look if you would to verify that I'm not losing my mind. I understand and agree that the pins aren't quite the same, but if I follow the colors you noted, the yellow wouldn't connect to anything at the ECU side of the E11 on the Home harness. Did you mean to say "use the Blue/Green pair for the home input"?
In other words, as long as my trigger VE- and VE+ go to pins 14 and 1 respectively, and my home VE- and VE+ go to pins 14 and 2, I'm good, regardless of the wire color, yes?
Thanks for the response!
02-25-12 | 05:25 AM
#89
PS1K and PS2K the same wiring? Will the LS1 and LS2 truck coils be the same wiring?
My setup: S5 13bt, LS2 truck coils, gm water temp, PS2K, S4/5 CAS, S5 TPS.
Also do i nee a control box for those coils or will the Haltech fire them?
My setup: S5 13bt, LS2 truck coils, gm water temp, PS2K, S4/5 CAS, S5 TPS.
Also do i nee a control box for those coils or will the Haltech fire them?
02-25-12 | 09:38 AM
#90
PS1K and PS2K are the same, with the obvious exception of the extra inputs and outputs.
LS1 and LS truck coils are the same with the exception of the connector being flipped over. The A, B, C, D pinout is the same. LS2 coil is another coil all together. It has the same pinout as well.
No box needed. All LSx coils have internal ignitors.
I've sent you an email with the pinout for the connectors.
LS1 and LS truck coils are the same with the exception of the connector being flipped over. The A, B, C, D pinout is the same. LS2 coil is another coil all together. It has the same pinout as well.
No box needed. All LSx coils have internal ignitors.
I've sent you an email with the pinout for the connectors.
04-07-12 | 11:34 AM
#93
Thread Starter
EFI Tech Wannabe
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 4
From: D.R., USA, the world...
Hello all! Its been a while since ive logged into this forum, life just has funny ways of twisting around what your plans are and changing the outcome of it. At any rate, here is a repost of the links, the very first thread has my old URL with the .com address, that was lost to me a while back, its supposed to be .net to get them to work. These days i am available through email, BUT! please bare in mind i can no longer offer free tech support so as such i have to charge. I have several levels of paid tech support that go from regular emails or IM all the way through remote online sessions where i can take over your laptop and help you tune your engine, to seminar style training in the process. I also am not answering PM's so please just use the email addy in my sig.
PS1K to FC Stock
PS1K to FC w/ MSD's
PS1K to FC w/ LS1 coils
PS1K to FC w/ M&W CDI
PS1K to FD Stock
PS1K to FD w/ MSD's
PS1K to FD w/ LS1 coils
PS1K to FD w/ M&W CDI
E6X to FC Stock
E6X to FD Stock
When you email me, please make sure to let me know where you're located, there might be someone locally that can probably help you a lot better than i can remotely. But, i can guarantee that we can get the engine going remotely no problems, if there's nothing really complicated about your installation or if the ECU isnt in need of repair, or firmware reflash.
Note to all old DOS based systems, it is my humble suggestion that you try and update the ECU to a modern Platinum series system as the benefits will be by far a lot better than with the older DOS based systems, even the Halwin stuff, E6X/F10X/E8/E11, you will see added benefits from updating to a Sport 1000/2000.
Also, if anybody needs older diagrams for DOS based units they will be drafted up on a needed basis, and would be provided as part of any level paid tech support fee.
Hope this helps.
PS1K to FC Stock
PS1K to FC w/ MSD's
PS1K to FC w/ LS1 coils
PS1K to FC w/ M&W CDI
PS1K to FD Stock
PS1K to FD w/ MSD's
PS1K to FD w/ LS1 coils
PS1K to FD w/ M&W CDI
E6X to FC Stock
E6X to FD Stock
When you email me, please make sure to let me know where you're located, there might be someone locally that can probably help you a lot better than i can remotely. But, i can guarantee that we can get the engine going remotely no problems, if there's nothing really complicated about your installation or if the ECU isnt in need of repair, or firmware reflash.
Note to all old DOS based systems, it is my humble suggestion that you try and update the ECU to a modern Platinum series system as the benefits will be by far a lot better than with the older DOS based systems, even the Halwin stuff, E6X/F10X/E8/E11, you will see added benefits from updating to a Sport 1000/2000.
Also, if anybody needs older diagrams for DOS based units they will be drafted up on a needed basis, and would be provided as part of any level paid tech support fee.
Hope this helps.
20B wiring with MSD-DIS
08-27-12 | 08:41 PM
#97
sorry wrong, have toomany pages open....
Please delete this post...
*Aside from being on this page* (This page is usefull for many) Thumbs up.
Please delete this post...
*Aside from being on this page* (This page is usefull for many) Thumbs up.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-27-12 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Replied to wrong tab on internet explorore
08-28-12 | 09:34 AM
#98
I have an e6x that I was planning to use. it was said to be working on an engine that i bought. After seeing the lack of support and absense of info there is no way in hell that I would upgrade to any Haltech, the life span is just too short for the price. If you cannot at least support what you sell you may as well be on feebay selling china junk. Will use what I have till it quits and chuck it.
10-15-12 | 02:49 PM
#99
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Poland
http://www.tuningtechnology.net/Down...D_LS1coils.pdf
Coil#1 LEADING #1
Coil#3 TRAILING #1
it`s first rotor from front of the car
or
first from tansmission
?
injectors:
primary front rotor
secondary front rotor
front mean first from front of the car or transmission?
Coil#1 LEADING #1
Coil#3 TRAILING #1
it`s first rotor from front of the car
or
first from tansmission
?
injectors:
primary front rotor
secondary front rotor
front mean first from front of the car or transmission?
10-24-12 | 09:21 AM
#100
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane, Australia
It looks like no one really uses this thread anymore but I'll post my question here before posting a seperate thread
I'm about to undertake installing my platinum 1000 with long loom, I want to run some of the extra functions available
Pwm function
Boost control on dpo1
Thermo fan dpo2
Not that it matters but does the haltech only do a -ve Pwm or can it be configured as both, and does anyone have a diagram for hooking up a thermo as Pwm off a relay?
Avi1 is my wideband signal
I also want to run a on/off toggle switch so I can run 2 tunes to switch between both for 98 octane and e85
So dsi1 fuel map toggle
I also want to hook up a 2 stage rev limiter, the normal rev limiter set to 8000rpm or where ever and also a adjustable one for launching hooking to the handbrake
It looks like there's only 1 dsi input available though?
Also how are things like anti lag and launch control hooked up?
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers
I'm about to undertake installing my platinum 1000 with long loom, I want to run some of the extra functions available
Pwm function
Boost control on dpo1
Thermo fan dpo2
Not that it matters but does the haltech only do a -ve Pwm or can it be configured as both, and does anyone have a diagram for hooking up a thermo as Pwm off a relay?
Avi1 is my wideband signal
I also want to run a on/off toggle switch so I can run 2 tunes to switch between both for 98 octane and e85
So dsi1 fuel map toggle
I also want to hook up a 2 stage rev limiter, the normal rev limiter set to 8000rpm or where ever and also a adjustable one for launching hooking to the handbrake
It looks like there's only 1 dsi input available though?
Also how are things like anti lag and launch control hooked up?
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers