it's e11v2 with 2nd gen CAS, 20b, M&W CDI ignition.

sorry for the other post, i thought one of them went to CAS, but i didn't know about the other one. it seems like both of them go to the CAS from the diagram.

it'll be great to have the correct wiring diagram for my setup though. it's my first time wiring the entire car, so it'll be nice to follow your directions precisely for my ecu.

thanks claudio!

You didnt say what ECU! Go to the base map thread, ive updated it with new maps and working links for all the maps we have on there. For the 20B too, use the one posted there for LS1 coils, change the ignition spark mode to Constant Duty, Falling edge and 40% period. But check your M&W documentation for an explanation of the "edge" setting on them.

 

Here's a repost of the diagrams again.

PS1K to FC Stock
PS1K to FC w/ MSD's
PS1K to FC w/ LS1 coils
PS1K to FC w/ M&W CDI
PS1K to FD Stock
PS1K to FD w/ MSD's
PS1K to FD w/ LS1 coils
PS1K to FD w/ M&W CDI

E6X to FC Stock
E6X to FD Stock

PS2K to 20B Diagram w/ LS1 coils

And the latest map thread repost as well:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...93#post9986193

 

is the wiring diagram for PS2k same as E11V2?

thank you.

 

Thanks for the wiring diagrams and base maps.


I just got a haltech and they already came in handy several times.

FUel side double checked and GOOD! Now for stock coils.. And i should be close to being done.

 

Hey claudio what about the 20b stock ignition system and the 20 OMP. Oh by the way you rock with this info.

 

hey guys, im in the middle of fitting a ps1000 at the moment, just wondering what basic settings i should be using for my setup.

ps1000 on a s5 13bt. im running a dynatek cdi setup on the leading coils only and bosch coils on the trailing

is this what i should use?
4. FC and M&W CDI
Spark Mode Direct Fire
Constant Duty
50%
Edge can be set on the box, falling or rising, make sure you have set them the same.

thanks
Lev

 

Good Luck, mine PS1k did not match up with any of the wiring diagrams!

 

I've never worked with a "Dynatek cdi" so i couldnt not even venture a guess on how to set it up. But if its anything like an M&W CDI the settings are Constant Duty, 50%, and the edge is selectable with the box's wiring.

But, i have always been reluctant to use different components for leading and trailing ignition, since timing may present variations. Anyway, always make sure you properly sync the ECU and the motor.

Would you care to tell us what your setup is so we can provide adequate help with your installation?

 

There is a 20B diagram, but i am not 100% sure its accurate, the OMP should be the same as the 2nd and 3rd gen 13B's, but if anybody can compare and verify this and let me know i will certainly appreciate it.

 

well it works fine now, so i'd rather not play with it.

for some reason, my ignition outputs needed to be swapped over.

normally
ig1=L1
ig2=L2
ig3=T1
ig4=T2

but on mine it was

ig1=L2
ig2=L1
ig3=T2
ig4=T1

with a trigger angle og 65 and tooth ofset of 10, it all lines up perfectly...

 

Huh?? That doesnt sound right, something must be off, either you have the inputs wired backwards on your CDI, or your outputs from the Haltech.

 

Nope Tripple Checked all the wiring..... i know it's odd, but it's working now.

 

the link still not working

 

50% duty, trigger setup to incorrect edge would give that result wouldn't it?

 

yes it would, but mine is set up to 65 trigger angle and a 10 tooth offset.

when i didn't know they were back to front it was 95 5

 

i need help wiring the CAS , I have an E8 . DOes anyone have a diagram to wire up the CAS?

 

Claudio

I am just double-checking this wiring diagram :

http://www.tuningtechnology.net/Down...7_FC_Stock.pdf

And i am finding error with wirring trailing coil.

Both Hitman and BDC are saying that ECU signal to the stock trailing ignitor wire is PINK and toggle (5V) is WHITE.

(http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm, https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1231527302)

While your pdf says that toggle is PINK and IGN signal is WHITE.

Who is right and who is wrong?

 

Hitman's is correct.

 

links dont work anymore

 

Hi all, I just finished wiring up my PS1000 with long flying lead kit on a stock FC CAS and ignition system. Went and try to start it after setting up the ecu, but NO SPARK.

Here are some observations:
- there's fuel, I smell it in exhaust
- there's power to injectors, coils, fuel pump, and ecu, I checked
- 1 weird thing happening, ecu will turn on even Without the ecu fuse, as long as pink wire is hooked up then ecu will turn on. (I checked it over and over again, I am sure I did all the red and black wires correctly, I don't know if this is normal)
- I suspect it's the CAS + Coils wiring, because when I was doing it the color coding experienced on the car was conflicting with the diagram provided

Here's what I did in regards of CAS and Coils wiring:
Car wire -> plug wire -> Haltech wire (*** are the ones with color conflict)

CAS white -> white -> green main trigger (-)
CAS red -> red -> yellow main trigger (+)
***CAS green -> green -> yellow home trigger (+)
***CAS white/black -> blue -> green home trigger (-)

Lead Coil pink -> green/yellow -> yellow/black ignition 1
***Lead Coil greyish -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay

Trailing Coil white -> brown/yellow -> yellow/brown ignition 3
Trailing Coil pink -> blue/yellow -> yellow/red ignition 2
Trailing Coil yellow -> yellow/blue -> XX (went back to stock harness for Tach)
Trailing Coil grey - > blue/red -> XX (not used, so cut and taped)
(yellow/green ignition 4 on haltech side not used as per diagram)

***Trailing coil greyish #1 -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay
***Trailing coil greyish #2 -> black/yellow -> red/yellow ignition power relay

the wiring was based on a diagram sent to me through email from haltech
it is the same diagram posted in this post for S4 FC Stock setup

Someone please point me in the right direction or confirm that I did the right thing
since the wire colors were conflicting, I hooked it up based on best knowledge
ie. for the CAS, I ignored coloring and hooked it up home trigger (+) to home trigger (+)
and so on
For the coils, the black/yellow were obviously the power wires because they were separate plugs and are thicker gauge wires

 

Hello internet,

I'm installing a haltech e6k on my s4 TII, stock coils.

I'm experiencing a really bad short somewhere in my harness, because when I hooked the battery up to test my wiring job the black/yellow wire labeled as "Pump relay" (pin 33) got so hot it started to smoke! This wire is the ONLY wire that did this, and it only goes between the fuel pump relay and the ECU connector. This wire is also a ground, and at the pump relay itself it shares a connector with a regular ground (pin 32 i believe, the wire is all black and is grounded). Anybody have an idea as to where I can start looking to figure out what would cause ONLY THIS ONE WIRE to become so damn hot? Would not having the haltech actually connected to the harness cause this problem somehow?

My wiring job is based on THIS and THIS and THIS

I've gone through and tested all the wires I've hooked up already again and again and they are all right according to these resources. I have also discovered that if I take a multimeter to the two leads that go to the battery I get a connection (which is bad i know) but when I go through all the pins on the ECU connector the only things going to ground are the grounds and there are no shorts as far as I can tell. somebody please point me in the right direction!

 

The black/yellow output is a switched ground. It is used to trigger the fuel pump relay. If that pin on the relay also has a wire connected to it that goes directly to ground, then the relay will stay on any time the positive side of the relay is energized. You need to remove the wire that goes directly to ground to allow the ECU to properly control the relay.

Why is the black/yellow wire getting hot? It's possible that something is trying to draw a high amperage through it since it's paired with your other wire that goes directly to ground. The black/yellow wires is only large enough to carry the small amperage needed to power the relay, so anything else will overload it and cause it to heat up. Could also damage the driver circuit on the ECU board.

 

So, looking at the diagram:
If I'm running four secondary injectors, do I just splice a split into the wires coming from pins 21 and 22?

 

this is how it is done ( parallel ) but if done with low ohm injectors you need to ballast the line resistance back to around 3 ohms as a minimum
( though i would target 4.5 ohms so as to use those peak and hold settings in the setup )

failure to do so may overload and overheat the internal ECU injector drivers

if you use 2 hi ohm ( 16 ohms ) injectors ,, it will total as 8 ohms seen at the ECU and is fine

 

Hello!
It is really mistake of connection trailing in diagram PS1K to stock FC??

im not have engine side wiring, and i connect it like in diagram colors, now i cant find trailing mark on pulley with strobe light!

In PS1K diagram
on Coil side - on haltech

White - Yellow/Red (Trailing signal)
Pink - Yellow/Brown (Toggle signal)

In E6X diagram it is absolutely contrary

Pink - Yellow/Red (Trailing signal)
White - Yellow/Brown (Toggle signal)


If PS1K diagram like im install not work properly i must reconnect it like in E6X diagram? May i damage ECU or Ignitor?