ok so i got my car to start up on the first couple tries running Haltech E6X, 550/1680 inj, 3 bar map,

now i notice my cool temp sesnor reading -40f , how to i check this out i have my multimeter out, comments welcome

anythign i missed or looks funny on this data page?



hybrid

 

I'd say your temp sensor is disconnected.

 

i double checked and its connected to the sensor i will be pulling it tomorrow and see if the crimps are good.

can the haltech temp sensor go bad?

hybrid

P.S thanks for BDC for the base map, it works like a charm

 

Very cool.

Yep, -40*F degrees is the sensor being disconnected. Check the wiring to the connector clip.

B

 

well recrimped and tested and the wiring is fine, did a resistance test and the sensor seems to be bad. the temp sensor was chiping in and out.

So where do i get a new haltech temp sensor with metric threads?

Also last but not least my brand new turbo is leaking oil where the exhaust side meets the centre section

hybrid

 

well recrimped and tested and the wiring is fine, did a resistance test and the sensor seems to be bad. the temp sensor was chiping in and out.

So where do i get a new haltech temp sensor with metric threads?

Also last but not least my brand new turbo is leaking oil where the exhaust side meets the centre section

hybrid

 

eBay has them.

 

how do you get your map sensor to read in psi ?

 

There's a menu somewhere that lets you switch between english and metric, play with it a bit.

 

ok got a new water temp sesnor on its way now......how do i zero in the timing?

 

you can search for it. been discussed before.

 

Hey guys so i have a problem.... the car sounds like sit and i have to blip the trottle to keep it running..when i remove the map sensor line and plug it,it sounds whay better but still no idle...what gives

 

check plugs

 

checked that clean them up and all stillsame problem

 

Did you zero the timing yet? Do that first with timing completely off you will never get it to idle.

 

^ What he said.

Also, when you foul the plugs you need to clear the chambers before reinstalling the clean plugs or it's likely you will immediately foul them again.

When you flood the engine remove the plugs and clean them or replace them with new. Next, before reinstalling the plugs, disconnect the fuel pump and CAS and crank the engine over for about 10 sec with no plugs in the engine. This will push most of the raw fuel that is in the chamber out through the open plug holes. It's important to disconnect the CAS or coils to ensure the plug wires aren't trying to arc when you crank the engine. Not only can it be hard on the coils if they're charged and not allowed to discharge, but when they do discharge it can light the raw fuel being pumped out of the chambers.

 

if you haven't fixed the sensor running -40F will cause the fuel/coolant maps to be pegged and you most likely will be running very rich.......

 

this was corrected quickily I might add thanks to ludwig

 

update... I think I zeroed in the timing (car sound s better as least and revs good).. i followed the hitman site as well as claudios notes.

So the cas is stabed correctly at -5 degrees on the pully the cas was as the pic below.

Now i used lead 2 wire to set the timing as lead 1 was 180 deg inverted. BUT trailing 2 corespondes to lead 2 and when I reve the engine over 2500rpm with timing lock still on at -5degrees as per claudio notes the timing remain at -5 degrees so i think i am good .......right?

hybrid

 

If you're still using the stock (waste spark) FC ignition then both leadings should be firing at the same time. It'll never be truly 180* out. You should be able to use either L1 or L2 for the spark pickup if you're not doing a direct fire 4-coil gig.

As long as the Lock Timing degrees was set to -5 and you hit the gun on either Leading wire aligning either the CAS manually or modifying the Trigger Angle to where the gun sees the yellow -5*BTDC marker on the crank pulley, then you're good.

B

 

Bingo. At that temperature, the coolant/fuel corrections factor is 100% above whatever is in the current fuel map at least on my base maps.

B

 

Progress I love it.

SO i am all good, so next.... i have been having a problem with the MAP connected, it seems to be killing the idle when it is and breaking up when blipin the throttle to keep it alive.

(timing was zeroed in with it disconected) it seems like the values (map sensor readings) are jumping around so i assume this could be pulsation in the vacuum signal that i am getting from the buttom nipple of the phelm on the alt side, i also get my vac.boost gauge signal also on botton nipple on the firewall side. (took this from hitman site) for best vacuum signal (vac line about 1.5ft long though not sure if the length causes a problem)

blow off is connected to the nipple on the UIM near the block off plates

Vacuum on idle around 10hg correct?

Now i do have a medium street port and it idles a bit loopy any suggestions on the solution to this issue

Now more info on the motor to help with above problems

S4 13bT with medium street port
550/1680cc injectors
walbro fuel pump
Rats nest removed
Throttle body MOD
BAC removed
Block plates on everything
Running pre mix (OMP Removed)
Haltech E6x with stock FC coils (waste spark)
3 bar MAP
stage 4 hybrid turbo (Comparable to BNR)
E fan, Taurus fun running low speed

hybrid

 

You can enable zero throttle map which ignores vacuum at idle and enters the values from that map - exactly whats its mean for is bridgeports/massive cams

 

^ Yep I had to use the zero throttle map for idle myself. Works great!

 

Yep, same here. I use it on bridgeport maps. Seems to be the only way to get them to behave at idle.

B