I just got done with my TII swap in 1st gen. tried to fire up the rebuild and getting no spark. the coils are getting power and the wires are connected properly. What should i check? Running a E6K with FC coils.. Thanks

 

Try giving your gain in the ign setup a little boost. If it's set too low she won't fire. I have both of mine set at 2.

 

First things first, can you go online with it, are the relays clicking when you turn the ignition on, if you can go online, do you have RPMs, if so, and you are using stock ignition components, you need to set the ignition parameters to: Multitooth, 24 teeth, offset 11 (according to mazdas way of stabbing in the CAS), trigger mode Adaptive, trigger angle +/- 65 degrees, gain for main trigger and home set to 2, spark mode Distributor, Falling Edge, Constant Charge, 3.5mS, Rotary.

If you covered all this, and wired up the Coil the way this is suppsed to be done, the haltech might have fried drivers, if however, you have a different type of ignition system, please specify.

 

Yah I have the stock FC coils and cas. I will check all my settings and wiring today. If i need to get the fried drivers replaced how long is the turn-around on that? Do I ship to Aus? or in the USA?

 

Double checked everything and it's all wired correctly. Swapped in another Leading coil same thing.. I bought this E6k ecu from someone used and this is the first time I'm trying to start my car with it.. thanks for the help. I will research where i need to mail it off to..

 

Ooppss... what kind of assurance did that guy give you on the Haltech, did he tell you he was 100% sure it worked? More often than not a used haltech should always be checked prior to purchase to garantee its in 100% working order. I always check them personally to make absolutely sure.

Turn around time for repairing a haltech will vary greatly, depends on the back log. Call Haltech USA and ask.

 

Can it be repaired in the USA? I didn't have anyway to test it when i purchased it.. I bought a brand new harness for it

 

They can do some repairs in the US office right now, im sure with time they will do more, shoot them an email, haltech@sbcglobal.net, or call em, 760-598-1941....

 

Sent the E6K to AUS today. I was told the repair guy there works on Friday and Monday and would repair it the same day. They will have it on Thursday this week. I expect it back in 10-14 days.. Hopefully..

 

damn... that sucks... Did it not read rpm or what?

 

No rpm. I even spun the cas by hand and nothing.. I should have it back late next week..

Some pics of my eng bay.. almost there...

 

That looks great, very good work. Hope it turns out fine.

 

Thanks.. alot of work doing this TII swap. Decided to use the FD UIM on it.. wanted something different.. going to see what this A-Spec GT35R T04 1.0 A/R will do with this 2100 Lb car..

 

its gonna be slow!
jk

keep us updated gonz

 

The wiring to the trigger may not be correct if you are getting 0 RPM while cranking.

B

 

only 3.5ms? I've had mine set to 4.8 for 3 years now. Is that bad?

 

I triple checked all the wiring.. I didn't want to waste more time and get nowhere.. I will have it back late next week hopefully

 

Well after i sent the ecu to AUS I was cleaning my pass side of the car and i found the black wire with the ring terminal that is close to the connector that plugs into the ecu not grounded. I hope that wasn't my prob.. (probably was) I grounded the wire and borrowed a E6K from a local friend. plugged it in and now i get spark.. gonna try and start the rebuild saturday morning.. i'll let you guys know what happens.. thanks again for all the help

 

Hmmm, I'm pretty sure that is one of the main grounds...that could have been your problem.

 

Car is running fine now..

 

good to hear

 

Which UIM adapter are you using to mount it there? I want to do that with my next FC car and have looked for feedback and the only adapter ive found is the one made by Amemiya or some other JDM company, you got references to a US made adapter? Thanks.

 

A forum member made it for me. his user name is "years of decay". he was makng them for 125.00. look him up.. If you can't find him let me know.. i got his e-mail address somewhere..

 

Well Haltech fixed my ECU and they are shipping it back on Monday.. 225.00 AUS dollars for repair/shipping..

 

That main black is the main ground for the whole Haltech.
At the very least, it grounds all the relays, so none of the aux stuff would turn on at all.

What did Haltech AUS do to charge you so much for?
I assume something was broken?


-Ted