TalkSick

i dont know how i seem to get all this stuff backwards. there are a hundred threads on "car wont start" or "car doesnt stay running". and i have the "my car wont STOP running" thread.

heres the break down, as per previous post i had a bitch of a time with the timing.. got it all sorted out after 2 days of searching an reading and realising im not all that smart. i removed and rewired the CAS, finally got it stabbed and locked .. timing is bang on. so i fire car up.. starts up quite nicely after deflooding. dont need to touch throttle. just turn key it fires up an finds a nice idle around 1200. but i cant turn it off. i turn the key to the off position, blower stops and everything else to do with the car stops like it should but the engine just keeps cruisin along like nothing happened. i wasnt having this problem before i got the timing set (car started an ran once before) but now i have to go into the software and turn off the injectors to shut the car off. could this be a result of
A a short on the injector wiring
B short or improper shielding on the CAS wiring
C a toasted relay
D toasted haltech
E gross ineptidude on the part of the installer
F something far more basic then all of this that i just havent managed to wrap my head around yet

also i find if i try to rev the engine at all i get crazy backfires an stumbling. .rpms spike from 0-9000, i get fuel cut and afr goes to about 17, MAP spikes, none of this happens consistantly but i do consistantly hit a wall at 1500 + rpm thats violent enough that im scared to try n rev past it. logged it a few times and cant find a common link between any of it.

current set up is S4 streetport, stock coils ignitors, stock cas, stock turbo, stock IC, 550 x4 injectors, 3" exaust, running claudios map for stock everything with igniton toggle an 2.5 bar intrnal sensor. i realise all this is probably some noob **** and ill take whatever flaming comes, the answers arent comin to me, my searching can only take me so far, and every so often i gotta bite it an admit my ignorance. either way i keep makin these cars run an i owe it almost entirely to the members of this forum and the sheer fun of driving them. help me out if u can.. just point an laugh if u cant.

TalkSick

well ill chronicle my follys anyway.. perhaps itll save the next DIY'r out there.

would having the rear plug on the alternator wired wrong (ignition source on lower white/black post) cause such funky issues? ill know soon enough i guess

i should really just buy a honda but nothing else makes buying fuel seem like buyin ride tickets.

so.. remember kids double check your settings and numbers, dont get those trigger numbers wrong or ull never get the timing zeroed no matter how many times u rewire the CAS

check the wires and connections.. seems like verytime i assume i know which is which my mechanical lysdexia icks kin and then i spend hours an hours chasin some "mystery" mistake

i should add that this whole project started as someone elses sort of half assembled half tuned TII swap into an 85gsl that was kinda running on a wolf3d with a sort of 2nd gen coil direct fire setup. i didnt take something that worked and makeit worse thru ineptitude.. ive got it starting and running far better then it was.. but im new to all this tuning crap. i see the read counts movin so help a rotorhead out.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yes, an improperly wired alternator would cause it to feedback and keep the car running.

TalkSick

indeed wiring the alternator wrong will make the car run magically after u pull the key... now to fix the wall i hit.. its at 2000rpm now, likely some other setting i dicked with and forgot about.

Righty

iTrader: (4)

At least your taking it well.

One guaranteed thing about the Honda is that you will get bored of it. The Mazda's will never cease to amaze you.... good or bad.

TalkSick

oh no way in hell id trade my triangles for an H. i started with helpin an engine swap 4 years ago, ive ressurrected a couple fcs, a couple FBs, and now im gettin into turbo n tuning. seems like buggerall except the fact that before that first 7 i didnt even put oil in cars, let alone fix em. the car i had before my first 7 i gave away because a strut tower busted the spring perch off, next thing i know im installing coil overs on my FC which had no suspension problems at all. i love these things

but im at the wall now.. 2k rpm an its like i hit rev limiter. gonna try the gains n filters an see what i can find out. mess with the throttle pumps a shade ill either blow it up or make it go one way or the other. this is about day 6 of 13 hour days installing and fixing and reading and scratchin my head, ill almost be sad when im done

TalkSick

OMG!! the car starts... more importantly when i turn the key.. the car stops again and afer adjusting the filters to 1 a piece i can freely rev without the car takin a giant ****. i couldnt be happier.. now just have to tune the maps (im lean all over the place, id assume because of the porting or maybe garbage fuel pressure) but i can get in it an drive it gingerly an itll run at 13-14 afr... any real load goes lean but not violently. again thanks to the rx7club community for the help and patience. stay tuned for the next "how did i manage to get **** completely backwards?" thread

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

There's a rpm diag in the e6x.

I'd set you filters as high as possible.

I would load up a stock fuel map from the sticky (keep your other settings) since you have stock injectors. You won't be too far off.

So did you swap the CAS wires b/c of that connector?

TalkSick

No the CAS wires were good, i didnt used a connector for it in the first place, i hard wired it in by soldering the wires. id already read about so many interference problems and noisy signals i didnt bother with a connector. what i had done with the CAS was stabbed it using mazdas factory stabbing but i was using tooth offset value 3 as opposed to 11. made it impossible to set timing right.
then the car wouldnt shut off because i had wired the IGN ON to the wrong prong on the back of the alternator. like i said above, i didnt start this project im just tryin to finish it, and the previous owner had already had a slash at the wiring. he didnt do a poor job but he did what he had to do to swap a TII into a 85gsl, and that has left me with some mystery wiring.

i am using one of the stock maps
E6X - Stock S4/S5 (with toggle feature), Stock Injectors, Stock Motor, Stock turbo, internal 2.5bar map sensor.
off the sticky page, and it is bang on at zero load and low load, but im told this keg is pretty aggressivly ported. i can free rev to 7500 as long as i do it smoothly and afr is almost exactly 13 across the band. soon as i put on any real load tho im kickin 14-15s. im assuming thats as a result of the porting/larger exhaust but we have seen where my assumptions take me. i cant find a map that has been set up for a streetport on 4x550cc, and i intend to go to at least 800 secondaries soon anyhowas i have 2 800cc injectors and there is a map for 550/800 streetport.. am i at least close regarding that idea?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Ya go ahead and add some fuel.

It only takes a few seconds you can see if you AFR's are going down.

TalkSick

yup got things runnin nicely.. basically just took the text map an bumped the whole map from idle beyond up a couple of "page ups" and have it running safely with decent afrs. now just gotta do the fine tuning and an assload more learning.

hiboost

iTrader: (1)

I think I misswired mine too ( alternator wiring). I have FD and my simptoms could be different. One of the simptom is that my car runs too rich. I had to lower my fuel really low to get the car started but still runs rich. Could this "switched wire" thing cause my car to flood with fuel?

TalkSick

i cant say for sure but i dont think the alternator wiring issue i had or any other for that matter could effect the amount of fuel injected. the only thing i can think of that MIGHT cause something like that would be if your alternator isnt wired correctly or isnt working correctly and isnt sending enough power. check your fuel/battery voltage correction map and have a look at that to make sure u arent over correcting. i had a similar sort of issue regarding the air temp and coolant temp correction maps.

however takin my advice on anything 7 related might not be your best bet, have you read my posts?