Haltech Attention Haltech Shoppers!! - Help with Maps Here!
#77
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Originally Posted by HellRotary
This was just the link i was looking for. I`ll try the 550/1600 e6x todnight. I`ll let you know when i got the result!
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The car started whit the 550/1600 e6x map. It was a little lean on gas, but it was pretty close to my mods. I had a little problem whit the ignition so we didnt get to map it to more than 0.1 bar pressure. I`ll try new spark plugs and ignition wire and hope that the stock coils will do. We will run it whit wideband up to 1 bar tomorrow or the day after if I get everythimg to work. I`ll let you know.
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I'm using the "E8 - 13BT S4/S5 engine, toggle feature enabled, 550/1600cc injectors."
Map with my E8 and i didn't get any RPM signal until I turned up the gain on the trigger and home signals to 2.
I don't know if this has been seen by anyone else.... just an FYI.
Its trying to start!
I'm thinking I might have some wiring problems with my Jacobs Pack.
I'll keep giving feedback.
Map with my E8 and i didn't get any RPM signal until I turned up the gain on the trigger and home signals to 2.
I don't know if this has been seen by anyone else.... just an FYI.
Its trying to start!
I'm thinking I might have some wiring problems with my Jacobs Pack.
I'll keep giving feedback.
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Originally Posted by RX7.0
I'm using the "E8 - 13BT S4/S5 engine, toggle feature enabled, 550/1600cc injectors."
Map with my E8 and i didn't get any RPM signal until I turned up the gain on the trigger and home signals to 2.
I don't know if this has been seen by anyone else.... just an FYI.
Its trying to start!
I'm thinking I might have some wiring problems with my Jacobs Pack.
I'll keep giving feedback.
Map with my E8 and i didn't get any RPM signal until I turned up the gain on the trigger and home signals to 2.
I don't know if this has been seen by anyone else.... just an FYI.
Its trying to start!
I'm thinking I might have some wiring problems with my Jacobs Pack.
I'll keep giving feedback.
If the Jacobs has 3 channels, or 4, you might want to try Wasted Spark Mode, and then the 3 IgnX outputs are just that, no toggle. Also, a Jacobs is prolly like an MSD, so you need to change the settings on the Spark Output to Rising Edge, 30-50% period.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Claudio RX-7; 04-17-06 at 07:23 PM.
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I have the FC1000 setup only on the leading coils as depicted here:
http://www.rotaryheads.com/modifications/FC1000/
It wasn't a problem before, so I don't know why it would be now.
We're troubleshooting ignition right now, only because we see nothing with the timing light(next step is to zero the timing).
Maybe I'll try another timing light.
Also I noticed on that map that the charge time was set to 3.5ms when HITman suggests 4.5ms. I don't know if you did that on purpose.
http://www.rotaryheads.com/modifications/FC1000/
It wasn't a problem before, so I don't know why it would be now.
We're troubleshooting ignition right now, only because we see nothing with the timing light(next step is to zero the timing).
Maybe I'll try another timing light.
Also I noticed on that map that the charge time was set to 3.5ms when HITman suggests 4.5ms. I don't know if you did that on purpose.
#82
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Originally Posted by RX7.0
I have the FC1000 setup only on the leading coils as depicted here:
http://www.rotaryheads.com/modifications/FC1000/
It wasn't a problem before, so I don't know why it would be now.
We're troubleshooting ignition right now, only because we see nothing with the timing light(next step is to zero the timing).
Maybe I'll try another timing light.
Also I noticed on that map that the charge time was set to 3.5ms when HITman suggests 4.5ms. I don't know if you did that on purpose.
http://www.rotaryheads.com/modifications/FC1000/
It wasn't a problem before, so I don't know why it would be now.
We're troubleshooting ignition right now, only because we see nothing with the timing light(next step is to zero the timing).
Maybe I'll try another timing light.
Also I noticed on that map that the charge time was set to 3.5ms when HITman suggests 4.5ms. I don't know if you did that on purpose.
Do this, take the CDI off, connect everything as stock, set the Dwell time to 4.5 if you like, and try it, i would also tell you to hold a plug wire close to the coil tower so you see how much spark its putting out, you will be impressed, i honestly dont use the MSDs if its for a less than 450hp engine.
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It was the timing light...
We tried a different one and it was fine.
FYI, The Jacobs Ignition setup described on that website does not change the functionality of the leading coil, only the intensity of spark.
I got it to run, followed HITman's zeroing procedure( I had to change the trigger angle to 48 deg BTDC!). AND, as soon as I removed the Lock Timing option, the timing was WAY off the marks.
Regardless, it has a rough, pulsing(about 1pulse/second) idle that is only maintained if I hold 10% throttle. I know the IGN wires are right, so I'm looking at other possible problems....
We tried a different one and it was fine.
FYI, The Jacobs Ignition setup described on that website does not change the functionality of the leading coil, only the intensity of spark.
I got it to run, followed HITman's zeroing procedure( I had to change the trigger angle to 48 deg BTDC!). AND, as soon as I removed the Lock Timing option, the timing was WAY off the marks.
Regardless, it has a rough, pulsing(about 1pulse/second) idle that is only maintained if I hold 10% throttle. I know the IGN wires are right, so I'm looking at other possible problems....
Last edited by RX7.0; 04-18-06 at 02:51 PM.
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The trigger angel set to 48 tells me that something isnt right, either you have the CAS stabbed in the wrong way prolly, or the trigger edges are set wrong? But, most likely is the CAS that is one or 2 teeth off.
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
Ok, first of all you have to be aware that the setup is for JUST factory ignition, with the Jacobs ignition output settings are different and if the Jacobs is anything like an MSD, IT WONT work.
the fc1000 won't change anything with the ignition settings, except you can get away with a bit lower charge time to make the plugs last longer. if there is no spark, either your install was wrong, or there's a problem elsewhere.
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Originally Posted by __dave__
the fc1000 won't change anything with the ignition settings, except you can get away with a bit lower charge time to make the plugs last longer. if there is no spark, either your install was wrong, or there's a problem elsewhere.
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Originally Posted by __dave__
has anyone posted up an fd map for the e8 yet?
if i can find a way to transer mine from the craptop, i'll throw one up.
if i can find a way to transer mine from the craptop, i'll throw one up.
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i have a s5 with an e8, and dont know whats going on with my CAS, but to zero my timing i have to use a 35 degree trigger on a tooth offset of 11??!??!!
locked timing at -5 btdc.
i have stabbed the CAS as per mazda factory, DEFINATELY.
its on the 5ATDC mark, and i pulled out the cas and lined up the two notches down at the crank meshing gear end. reinstalled it and made sure it didn't move at all.
cas looks like this inserted at 5atdc :
car runs fine (above 1k rpm) at 35degrees trig, 11 offset.
both filters are at two, and both gains at 2. no spikes in RPM signal. although it is hard to start at the moment, and the timing light doesn't flash for the first few cranks. does this mean the cas isn't registering well at low rpms??
locked timing at -5 btdc.
i have stabbed the CAS as per mazda factory, DEFINATELY.
its on the 5ATDC mark, and i pulled out the cas and lined up the two notches down at the crank meshing gear end. reinstalled it and made sure it didn't move at all.
cas looks like this inserted at 5atdc :
car runs fine (above 1k rpm) at 35degrees trig, 11 offset.
both filters are at two, and both gains at 2. no spikes in RPM signal. although it is hard to start at the moment, and the timing light doesn't flash for the first few cranks. does this mean the cas isn't registering well at low rpms??
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Originally Posted by burn4005
i have a s5 with an e8, and dont know whats going on with my CAS, but to zero my timing i have to use a 35 degree trigger on a tooth offset of 11??!??!!
locked timing at -5 btdc.
i have stabbed the CAS as per mazda factory, DEFINATELY.
its on the 5ATDC mark, and i pulled out the cas and lined up the two notches down at the crank meshing gear end. reinstalled it and made sure it didn't move at all.
cas looks like this inserted at 5atdc :
car runs fine (above 1k rpm) at 35degrees trig, 11 offset.
both filters are at two, and both gains at 2. no spikes in RPM signal. although it is hard to start at the moment, and the timing light doesn't flash for the first few cranks. does this mean the cas isn't registering well at low rpms??
locked timing at -5 btdc.
i have stabbed the CAS as per mazda factory, DEFINATELY.
its on the 5ATDC mark, and i pulled out the cas and lined up the two notches down at the crank meshing gear end. reinstalled it and made sure it didn't move at all.
cas looks like this inserted at 5atdc :
car runs fine (above 1k rpm) at 35degrees trig, 11 offset.
both filters are at two, and both gains at 2. no spikes in RPM signal. although it is hard to start at the moment, and the timing light doesn't flash for the first few cranks. does this mean the cas isn't registering well at low rpms??
Mine is the same way.
https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/e8-fc-timing-idle-issues-532579/
This weekend, I am going to find TDC using the Rear Rotor Spark Plug method, just to make sure.
I saw RPMs while cranking (150-250) though.
You should datalog your home and trigger counters to verify that they're not missing any teeth.
Last edited by RX7.0; 04-26-06 at 06:02 AM.
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thanks for the tip mate, i'll give that a go.
im sure the cas is correct, because the car was running perfectly on the stock computer, and when i rewired for the haltech i didn't even remove the cas. got the same problem that i encountered later, so i restabbed the cas and nothing changed.
i'll try datalogging the trigger/home signals tomorrow and see what that shows up. the pic of the cas i posted up isn't my car, but looks the same, but when you take off the cover of mine, i swear its the cleanest cas i've ever seen inside of. no dirt/rust/grease/oil/anything.
also, rpms are showing up in halwin while cranking, up to about 230rpm at full steam, so i guess its just my crap timing light thats the problem (probably should have got the expensive one.... )
im sure the cas is correct, because the car was running perfectly on the stock computer, and when i rewired for the haltech i didn't even remove the cas. got the same problem that i encountered later, so i restabbed the cas and nothing changed.
i'll try datalogging the trigger/home signals tomorrow and see what that shows up. the pic of the cas i posted up isn't my car, but looks the same, but when you take off the cover of mine, i swear its the cleanest cas i've ever seen inside of. no dirt/rust/grease/oil/anything.
also, rpms are showing up in halwin while cranking, up to about 230rpm at full steam, so i guess its just my crap timing light thats the problem (probably should have got the expensive one.... )
Last edited by burn4005; 04-26-06 at 06:37 PM.
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Originally Posted by burn4005
thanks for the tip mate, i'll give that a go.
im sure the cas is correct, because the car was running perfectly on the stock computer, and when i rewired for the haltech i didn't even remove the cas. got the same problem that i encountered later, so i restabbed the cas and nothing changed.
i'll try datalogging the trigger/home signals tomorrow and see what that shows up. the pic of the cas i posted up isn't my car, but looks the same, but when you take off the cover of mine, i swear its the cleanest cas i've ever seen inside of. no dirt/rust/grease/oil/anything.
also, rpms are showing up in halwin while cranking, up to about 230rpm at full steam, so i guess its just my crap timing light thats the problem (probably should have got the expensive one.... )
im sure the cas is correct, because the car was running perfectly on the stock computer, and when i rewired for the haltech i didn't even remove the cas. got the same problem that i encountered later, so i restabbed the cas and nothing changed.
i'll try datalogging the trigger/home signals tomorrow and see what that shows up. the pic of the cas i posted up isn't my car, but looks the same, but when you take off the cover of mine, i swear its the cleanest cas i've ever seen inside of. no dirt/rust/grease/oil/anything.
also, rpms are showing up in halwin while cranking, up to about 230rpm at full steam, so i guess its just my crap timing light thats the problem (probably should have got the expensive one.... )
Exactly,
You might as well be describing my car.
I have the same problem verbatim.
I'm starting to question the E8 trigger counting.
Just so we don't hijack this thread, maybe we should move this conversation to the thread I mentioned in my previous post. It covers the same issue.
Be sure to post your datalogs. I'm curious to see if they look like mine.
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Hi Guys...boy am I glad to see this thread!
In need of a base map to run in rebuilt motor...here are the stats:
Cosmo 13BRE (twin turbo) motor
Large Streetport (large extend port)
550 cc primary
1600cc secondary
Haltech E8
GT35R Turbocharger
LS1 coils
Ported throttle body (larger butterflies)
Any help is appreciated!
In need of a base map to run in rebuilt motor...here are the stats:
Cosmo 13BRE (twin turbo) motor
Large Streetport (large extend port)
550 cc primary
1600cc secondary
Haltech E8
GT35R Turbocharger
LS1 coils
Ported throttle body (larger butterflies)
Any help is appreciated!
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Originally Posted by 73IMPORT
Hi Guys...boy am I glad to see this thread!
In need of a base map to run in rebuilt motor...here are the stats:
Cosmo 13BRE (twin turbo) motor
Large Streetport (large extend port)
550 cc primary
1600cc secondary
Haltech E8
GT35R Turbocharger
LS1 coils
Ported throttle body (larger butterflies)
Any help is appreciated!
In need of a base map to run in rebuilt motor...here are the stats:
Cosmo 13BRE (twin turbo) motor
Large Streetport (large extend port)
550 cc primary
1600cc secondary
Haltech E8
GT35R Turbocharger
LS1 coils
Ported throttle body (larger butterflies)
Any help is appreciated!
http://p210.ezboard.com/fhaltechdiscussionforumfrm1
#97
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Originally Posted by 73IMPORT
Hi Guys...boy am I glad to see this thread!
In need of a base map to run in rebuilt motor...here are the stats:
Cosmo 13BRE (twin turbo) motor
Large Streetport (large extend port)
550 cc primary
1600cc secondary
Haltech E8
GT35R Turbocharger
LS1 coils
Ported throttle body (larger butterflies)
Any help is appreciated!
In need of a base map to run in rebuilt motor...here are the stats:
Cosmo 13BRE (twin turbo) motor
Large Streetport (large extend port)
550 cc primary
1600cc secondary
Haltech E8
GT35R Turbocharger
LS1 coils
Ported throttle body (larger butterflies)
Any help is appreciated!
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
The first post of page 5 of this thread there's a base map ive got for that particular setup, but you have to tell me how you are running your coils, are you using individual coils or FC S4/5? You should also drop by the Haltech forum in the tech section, ive got a thread there with all the base maps i have.
http://p210.ezboard.com/fhaltechdiscussionforumfrm1
http://p210.ezboard.com/fhaltechdiscussionforumfrm1
The coils are from the LS1 corvette. They are 4 individual coils.
#99
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Originally Posted by burn4005
i have a s5 with an e8, and dont know whats going on with my CAS, but to zero my timing i have to use a 35 degree trigger on a tooth offset of 11??!??!!
car runs fine (above 1k rpm) at 35degrees trig, 11 offset.
car runs fine (above 1k rpm) at 35degrees trig, 11 offset.
-Ted
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Originally Posted by RETed
Does this mean you never run more than 35-degrees of advance???
-Ted
-Ted