Hey guys,

Ive been thinking a lot about this, and i think its time i started my own MAP database.

I have accumulated a good deal of experience with Haltech and quite a few maps. Ill first post what i have and give precise details on what each map is for. I should mention, most of my maps have been addapted for me own country's weather conditions which is basically summer all year round with temps ranging between 27-33 degrees C most of the year.

Also, most importanly are the throttle pump settings, i always try to make drivability as best as possible through the throttle pumps, BUT, this is something that is also a trial and error deal, and most of the time is a vehicle specific situation, so your own car will need to be revised.

Ill start uploading maps today and sort them as best i can, then ill use this post for future reference. Also, please remember the maps will be given free of charge, and it should be noted that i cannot be held responable for any damages caused by the improper use of these maps. If you use them I STRONGLY URGE YOU to carefully review it, throughly observe your own engine's behaviour when using it, and make sure you properly retune it to your specs, NO 2 ENGINES ARE A LIKE, so please be careful.

Any feedback on your part will be greatly appreciated, and if you feel you've improved upon the map please email it to me and i will update it in the DB.

 

thats an awesome idea! definitly somthing that people are going to be able to use.

 

First Set of MAPs. For these MAPs to work you need to have hooked up the trailing coils with the aux. out feature set to "Ignition Toggle", and connected to the "Select" or IGTs wire on the vehicle Harness.

E6K Map, Stock Motor, stock injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, Stock Ignition/Coils.


E6K Map, Street Port Motor, 550/800cc injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, TO4 Turbo, FMIC, Stock Ignition/Coils.


E6X Map, Stock Motor, stock injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, Stock Ignition/Coils.

NOTE: PLEASE ZERO IN YOUR TIMING BEFORE YOU ATTEPMT TO RUN THESE MAPS! When you save these to your hard drive, please keep in mind to switch the "file type" association to "All Files", otherwise windows will try to change the extension to .TXT and make it seem like the file is corrupted. Also, with the E6X, i dont set passwords on my maps so if you get a password error try opening the MAP with the DOS version available from the Haltech site and resave it changing the map name.

One final note for E6X users, i have found that using as low a gain setting as possible eliminates most of the noise in the trigger signal, making idle a hell of a lot better, and using only the haltech trigger wires directly to the CAS and away from both the alternator and the sparkplug wires.

 

Claudio,

Good deal you are doing here! Thanks for putting the info out here.

 

Update! I need feedback from the S6/FD owners. What are the most popular ways for you guys to run the ignition? Does the factory FD ECU have built in igniters? because if memory serves the factory coil pack doesnt have any so i assumed the ECU handles it?

Im a little fuzzy on that, but im sure together we can figure it out. Let me know.

TIPS101:
Zeroing Your Timing.- (from the HITman's site) To "zero" the ignition timing there are a few steps involved, although it is a rather easy process and a timing light is required. if you do not have a timing light then go out right now and purchase one. It is a tool that every modified car owner should have. With the timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, start the engine and also have the Haltech system online on your laptop. Now go to the Ignition Setup page and you will see the Timing Lock feature. This feature is not normally visable unless you have the Haltech system online. The Timing Lock should be set to ON. A new setting underneath will come up with a value at which to lock the ignition timing. For most engines there is a TDC mark (O degrees) so this value can be set to zero. Whatever there are marks for measuring timing you can set this value into the Timing Lock and check the timing lines up. For the 13B Turbo engine we have here there are two marks on the crank as pictured previously. One is Yellow and signifies 5 ATDC (-5 degrees) and the other mark is Orange and is at 20 ATDC (-20 degrees). The timing lock must be set to -5 and with the timing light check that the Yellow marker lines up with the pointer. If it does not then the Trigger Angle value will need to be altered. If you need to retard the timing to make it line up you should increase the Trigger Angle value. If you need to Advance the timing to make it line up then decrease the Trigger Angle value. The same adjustments can be made for any engine type. Once the mark lines up you can now go and turn the Timing Lock to OFF.

 

I can upload some of my custom MAPs, but I run 720 Primaries/890 Secondaries, so I dont think they would help many people.

 

Can you give us details on your setup? ignition components? trigger settings? engine type? everything helps, i have a map somewhere that is for MSDs and 720cc injectors all round.

 

Claudio,

Great idea. Only problem is, your links don't seem to be working for me.

Is anyone else having this problem?

Thanks,
Greg

 

Yes, you where right, apparently the .6KM/X extension was causing the problem. Here are the new links for the Zipped files.

E6K Map, Stock Motor, stock injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, Stock Ignition/Coils.

E6K Map, Street Port Motor, 550/800cc injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, TO4 Turbo, FMIC, stock Ignition/Coils.

E6X Map, Stock Motor, stock injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, Stock Ignition/Coils.

Just 'Right click' "Save As" and you're good to go. Let me know if there are any more problems. Thanks.

 

720 primaries, 890 secondaries. Stock ignition with a Rotary Pro Pack box, BNR Stage 4 Turbo. Series 4 13B UNPORTED.

 

Hey guys, i have a 13B-REW map here for the E6X, BUT, i havent tried it on any car so i need EXTRA SPECIAL CARE in who ever tries it that they properly zero the timing and let me know if anything should be different. I also need info on the way the FD's run the coils, im fuzzy on wether it is built in igniters inside the ECU or there is an external igniter and what are its connections.

The map is setup for Direct Fire duty, that means, the ECU needs to be connected to a tripple channel igniter or something there about. Also, this is for 550/1600cc injectors and some mods.

Let me know,

E6X map, 550/1600cc injectors, some mods, turbo upgrade.

 

Hey Claudio,

Quick question on your E6X map for a stock engine. I noticed that the fuel injectors were set up for 8A. Is this map for a 86 - 88, or an 89 - 91?

Thanks,
Greg

 

Oh, sorry about that, when i was first starting that car i had some issues with fueling and that is why i changed that to see if there was something there, i will change it back and update the Map_DB, you can change it back to 4A, 4A will handle a single high or low imp. injector per driver with no problems.

Thanks for the feedback, keep it coming guys. Anybody try the REW map i posted?

 

When I get my E6X i'll use the Hitmans map as that is closer to my setup.

 

What is your exact setup, i might have something around here that would be of good use to you. Besides importing from K to X is somewhat tricky.

 

Hey Claudio, the 3rd gen does have an external ignitor, so we wire the dig1,2 and ign wire straight to the ignitor which is located right behind the cruise control motor with three bolts and a condensor wire. We also put constant duty because they are "dumb" as Haltech calls them.

 

What about us NA guys? I've got a mildly street ported stock S5 with 2.5 exhaust and stock intake/injectors.

 

I've had good success converting maps from the K.

Using a map on a FC now.

FD-

Polished stock ports/62-1 BB/850x4/hi flow cat/currently greddy smic- might upgrade/stock ign.

Nothing too wild.

 

I might have something soon for the NA engine. Although, i need to know about the fuel injection mode prefered. Do i do it stagging or multipoint? if stagging, at what bar/load point would you want me to start the secondaries?

 

Staged, definitely. I've got mine set at bar 24 but I need to lower it as I've seen 85% duty cycle before the second injectors come online.

 

??? Would you mind explaining what exactly you mean?

 

You need to do it staged, unless you're running like 1000cc primary fuel injectors!
"Multipoint" just means all fuel injectors are fired at the same time - there is no staging of primary and secondary sets of fuel injectors.

Hmmm...I guess you could fire all 4 stock fuel injectors (I'm assuming FC?), but that would be a pain to adjust idle.


-Ted

 

Before the staging bar are firing 2 injectors together after the staging all four, or am I wrong? So I think it is always multipoint staged or not.
Having in mind that for stock FC trottle body there is no air flow through the secondary ports during idling and very light trottle, I thing non-staged multipoint injection (all 4 injectors firing all the time together) is not even an option.

 

Just a dumb question here guys. My car is running but im not sure if i still have the timing right.

I have a FD and on the front cover there is a notch is that -20 BTDC?

If so my trigger angel is 73 degrees. Wich i think is pretty high. But it lines up at that angel with locking the trigger to -5 degrees and using the timing gun at trailing 1.

Oh and do we use direct fire or distributor on the FD?

I don't remember.

JT

 

Here is another MAP for the DB.


E6K for Series 4/5 with 550/1600cc injectors and some mods.

As always, feedback is welcomed and if anybody can make these better im opened to suggestions.