new sleek kit
#302
So i got my lights in finally. I began to hold them in place and i have made a "discovery" as far as the placement and size. i am defiantly sticking with the hella lighting and not gunna use any type of retrofit. the issue is that one of two things wont fit, either A: the lens will have some bubble to it, or B: the frame will have to be cut. i am leaning toward the lens bubble because this will allow you to simply bolt everything up and be done, how ever cutting the frame will provide a cleaner look. now as i continue testing i will provide more details as to the extent of the cutting necessary. i feel that modifying of the frame will be small enough that it wont inhibit going back to stock.
The modifications necessary should be able to be made with a hacksaw blade and a dremel with a cutting wheel and a sanding/grinding bit.
The modifications necessary should be able to be made with a hacksaw blade and a dremel with a cutting wheel and a sanding/grinding bit.
#303
It's not like RE-Amemiya's first choice was to cut the frame, but for it to fit... surprise surprise.
As for having a kit with a bubble lens, that you don't have to cut, check out the CWest.
The reason Evo-R gets away w/o having to cut the frame AND have a flat lens is because he uses a much sallower (shorter) light and mounts it further forward.
These aren't exactly new discoveries. Learn as much as you can from what's currently out there, there's a reason for everything. Have you considered a CAD rendering before you sink too much more time/money into this?
Best of luck.
-M
#304
i am familiar with both of these light kits and their methods of installation, i am however using different lights, actual headlights (not fogs), and was hoping that i could pull this off without cutting and still following the stock lines. but now that i actually have the pieces i need it is beginning to come together.
i didnt mean they were new discoveries, but rather that i wont be able to hit all the stops i initially had planned. and unfortunately i dont have any options but to spend money.
Haven't you seen the RE-A or CWest kits?
It's not like RE-Amemiya's first choice was to cut the frame, but for it to fit... surprise surprise.
These aren't exactly new discoveries. Learn as much as you can from what's currently out there, there's a reason for everything. Have you considered a CAD rendering before you sink too much more time/money into this?
Best of luck.
-M
It's not like RE-Amemiya's first choice was to cut the frame, but for it to fit... surprise surprise.
These aren't exactly new discoveries. Learn as much as you can from what's currently out there, there's a reason for everything. Have you considered a CAD rendering before you sink too much more time/money into this?
Best of luck.
-M
#305
In all honesty, I would rather have to cut the frame for a good fitting light that will retain stock curves instead of a bubble lens that may throw them off. That was my discrepancy about the c-west kit is that it just didn't seem to flow right with the front of the car.
#306
Agreed, for a project of this magnitude, that's a given.
You're probably best buying a RE-A kit, a CWest kit and an Evo-R kit (maybe a Pre-Auto if you can get your hands on it). Then figure out why everyone did what they did, then improving on their designs to your specs. You can always sell these at a later date to recoup some of your 'development' costs.
My suggestion is, before ordering lights and lenses and whatever else you may or may not end up using in a final version. Why not just get a CAD drawing done? Then you know exactly what size constraints you are working with, what lights will / will not fit, what lenses will have to look like, and what modifications should be expected.
I'm all for supporting you on this, and don't mean to come off as dictatorial or harsh, but you're 15 months into this and don't seem to be close to your goals of production. Perhaps it's time to take a step back, look at what you've accomplished thus far, measure how far you really have left to go, and be honest with yourself if your current path is producing the desired results.
For some reason this thread make me think of gmonsens thread on how far engine tuning has come. You sir seem to be tuning by EGT and knock, whereas there are full stand alones available to get you where you want to be.
All the best.
-M
You're probably best buying a RE-A kit, a CWest kit and an Evo-R kit (maybe a Pre-Auto if you can get your hands on it). Then figure out why everyone did what they did, then improving on their designs to your specs. You can always sell these at a later date to recoup some of your 'development' costs.
My suggestion is, before ordering lights and lenses and whatever else you may or may not end up using in a final version. Why not just get a CAD drawing done? Then you know exactly what size constraints you are working with, what lights will / will not fit, what lenses will have to look like, and what modifications should be expected.
I'm all for supporting you on this, and don't mean to come off as dictatorial or harsh, but you're 15 months into this and don't seem to be close to your goals of production. Perhaps it's time to take a step back, look at what you've accomplished thus far, measure how far you really have left to go, and be honest with yourself if your current path is producing the desired results.
For some reason this thread make me think of gmonsens thread on how far engine tuning has come. You sir seem to be tuning by EGT and knock, whereas there are full stand alones available to get you where you want to be.
All the best.
-M
#307
i appreciate your input. as far as looking at the other kits, i have a c west kit, and evo-r (not mine but can use it for fitment and ideas). the big reason for the length is my rx7 got totaled out july of last year, so my plans were to start again once i had another. then my wife had to have surgery, which was more important, then i lost my job. all that stuff added up to over a year. now we have income and time to do it as well as a car to use. so now i have made some positive progress and am getting to work.
as far as the cad drawing goes i am more comfortable going this route so that i can see and hold all the fitment.
and as far as my design goes once its finished you will notice aspects of both the c west and evo-r/Re A, yet something all its own.
as far as the cad drawing goes i am more comfortable going this route so that i can see and hold all the fitment.
and as far as my design goes once its finished you will notice aspects of both the c west and evo-r/Re A, yet something all its own.
#308
i am currently mocking up the lights and need some help. can some one tell me what these bolts are or rather what they go to?
the holes that the green circle bolts go through are threaded and the red circled bolts are not.
also if you were to remove 1 red and 1 green on the left side of the pic would that mess anything up?
the holes that the green circle bolts go through are threaded and the red circled bolts are not.
also if you were to remove 1 red and 1 green on the left side of the pic would that mess anything up?
#310
I
iTrader: (3)
I think there is one big issue with FD's and after market lights, because it was designed to have pop ups, they made the body very very smooth but failed to give any person much "height" to work with, tow results come of this...
Headlights either have the bubbled lens like pre autos, light "Montego's" (picture form his sig)
they look alright to most, but to some they ruin the lines, or curves the FD naturally has...
Then you get in the Evo-r, and RE-A units.. they do not look *as good* IMO but they keep the lines, they do not provide optimum lighting output, as the reflectors and the bulbs themselves are too "sunken" to far in, thus a certain amount of light is wasted just hitting the sides of the units..
these work for some, in fact a friend of mine just recently installed them on his, and I think it completely ruins the look of the car (sorry but I'm just really pick)
Personally I think (and I think you would agree) that your headlights should be an adaptation of the veilside fortune kit lights...
Have 3 bulb fixtures, and since the "regular" 7 have alot more depth (front to rear) the the vielside one does, I would start near the front of the most inward corner of the fixture with the high beam... Then moving diagonally to the rear outward section, transition the last two bulbs in a even orderly shape..
for the middle low beam, you could still try to do something similar to the 360 headlight, have instead of the "cover" (the nice shape going over the) covering both the low, and high beam, have it start on the outside of the low beam, then curve up and over the low back towards the engine. so unlike the Ferrari's that goes straight over and covers both, have it move back and to the center of the car, in a nice artistic fashion. (I would have drawn these up either by hand, or on computer program, but I lack skills in both)
your clay model looks good, I think it just needs a little fiddling, with your clay model, I would move the high beam and little bit forward, the low beam a little bit backwards, and have the curve go from the outside edge of the low beam to the rear of the housing, while sloping towards the center of the car..
if that makes any sense
Anyways. that is my $0.02 I doubt you will be able to understand any of that and how I mean, but i tried :P
I don't have MS paint or anything of the sort, or else I would just crudely edit yours to help you get the idea
either way, Good Luck, looks like a awesome project that quite a few people are interested in...
J.
Headlights either have the bubbled lens like pre autos, light "Montego's" (picture form his sig)
they look alright to most, but to some they ruin the lines, or curves the FD naturally has...
Then you get in the Evo-r, and RE-A units.. they do not look *as good* IMO but they keep the lines, they do not provide optimum lighting output, as the reflectors and the bulbs themselves are too "sunken" to far in, thus a certain amount of light is wasted just hitting the sides of the units..
these work for some, in fact a friend of mine just recently installed them on his, and I think it completely ruins the look of the car (sorry but I'm just really pick)
Personally I think (and I think you would agree) that your headlights should be an adaptation of the veilside fortune kit lights...
Have 3 bulb fixtures, and since the "regular" 7 have alot more depth (front to rear) the the vielside one does, I would start near the front of the most inward corner of the fixture with the high beam... Then moving diagonally to the rear outward section, transition the last two bulbs in a even orderly shape..
for the middle low beam, you could still try to do something similar to the 360 headlight, have instead of the "cover" (the nice shape going over the) covering both the low, and high beam, have it start on the outside of the low beam, then curve up and over the low back towards the engine. so unlike the Ferrari's that goes straight over and covers both, have it move back and to the center of the car, in a nice artistic fashion. (I would have drawn these up either by hand, or on computer program, but I lack skills in both)
your clay model looks good, I think it just needs a little fiddling, with your clay model, I would move the high beam and little bit forward, the low beam a little bit backwards, and have the curve go from the outside edge of the low beam to the rear of the housing, while sloping towards the center of the car..
if that makes any sense
Anyways. that is my $0.02 I doubt you will be able to understand any of that and how I mean, but i tried :P
I don't have MS paint or anything of the sort, or else I would just crudely edit yours to help you get the idea
either way, Good Luck, looks like a awesome project that quite a few people are interested in...
J.
#311
i appreciate your input. and if i understand what you are saying i agree. however i am limited on how far forward and backward each light can be. and as far as the clay model goes, i am limited on how nice i can make it, and how much i can change the location of the faux lenses for several 1: i am not a sculptor (not even close, lol), 2: i have big hands and it was a small model, and 3: those lenses are scale to the ones im actually using and like the real lights i only have so much room to work with.
the majority of my work is dictated by the space left when the popup is removed. my kit will be similar to the veilside kit but without the need of different/modified hood, bumper and fenders. and the VS lights appear to be the same diameter for all 3, where mine get smaller as you move toward the outside edge of the car. i feel this follows the stock lines very well.
I am hoping that this will not only offer far superior lighting to even the stock lights, but offer a way to bring a car that is dated by the pop ups, into the current millennium.
if this wasnt what u meant feel free to say so.
the majority of my work is dictated by the space left when the popup is removed. my kit will be similar to the veilside kit but without the need of different/modified hood, bumper and fenders. and the VS lights appear to be the same diameter for all 3, where mine get smaller as you move toward the outside edge of the car. i feel this follows the stock lines very well.
I am hoping that this will not only offer far superior lighting to even the stock lights, but offer a way to bring a car that is dated by the pop ups, into the current millennium.
if this wasnt what u meant feel free to say so.
#312
i have been looking at my models of both the c6 and ferrari 360 style light and when looking a my mock-up i am leaning toward the 360 look again. there are several reason why, but i will keep them to myself, but the most important is that i feel the c6 look is just to cheap. and the last thing i want to do in cheapen such an amazing vehicle.
i will probably go the ferrari route first and see how that goes and try the c6 look second.
i will probably go the ferrari route first and see how that goes and try the c6 look second.
#317
good, i have been busy with work and stayin' up late workin on the design. i have to do a plastic mock up of the lens/shroud mounting bracket to confirm my drawings are correct. i have like 7-8 hours in this bracket alone. the biggest problem is finding daylight to work on it. once i get the the last bracket in plastic to confirm my fitment i will get them made in steel.
once the brackets are all finished i will do the lens (designing the lens will be a breeze). then the shroud which will be tough but should move pretty well. i figure once im to the shroud i figure 5-6 days to finish.
i hope to see a the first set within 2 weeks of finishing the mock up. (this could vary based on the time it takes me to get the light modules, it took like 2 weeks to get them last time).
once the brackets are all finished i will do the lens (designing the lens will be a breeze). then the shroud which will be tough but should move pretty well. i figure once im to the shroud i figure 5-6 days to finish.
i hope to see a the first set within 2 weeks of finishing the mock up. (this could vary based on the time it takes me to get the light modules, it took like 2 weeks to get them last time).