FD eccentric lock washers for the LCA camber bolts!
06-13-20 | 02:06 AM
#51
+1
I don't mind taking a file to the sides if necessary, and a tiny amount of play is not a big deal.
There will be some play between the washers and bolts anyway (as Spalato posted in the video), so a little play here is not really an issue. I get that the play is additive, so minimizing it where possible is good, but it will still be much better than stock.
I don't mind taking a file to the sides if necessary, and a tiny amount of play is not a big deal.
There will be some play between the washers and bolts anyway (as Spalato posted in the video), so a little play here is not really an issue. I get that the play is additive, so minimizing it where possible is good, but it will still be much better than stock.
06-13-20 | 07:14 AM
#52
So I would like to open a discussion with the members who are interested in the lock washers regarding an issue that I stumbled upon. A while back when I was taking subframe measurements (U weld widths, hole length and width etc…) I realized an inconsistency on the FD subframe U weld widths (see attached photo). I have two rear subframes and one front subframe which I used for taking measurements. They all have different U weld widths. The difference is not large, but large enough to notice a difference when trying to design a perfect snug fit between the outer part of the washer and the U weld.
In a perfect world I would of course prefer to have the outer part of the washer to fit nice and tight against the U weld, so even before you put the nut on the eccentric bolt and tighten it…there would be no play. However because of the inconsistent U weld widths this means that one size does not fit all.
A while back I reached out to a few forum members here. I shared my lock washer designs with them and asked for their help if they could also measure their U weld widths so I can get a better idea of what exact differences are we talking about.
So here are the numbers (in millimeters) I have so far:
My subframes
Rear subframe (factory OEM paint):
36.35
36.40
36.70
36.45
Rear subframe (sand blasted and zinc coated):
36.7
36.7
36.5
36.4
Front subframe (factory OEM paint):
36.35
36.75
36.40
36.30
36.75
36.60
36.30
36.65
Forum member 1 measurements:
36.63
36.51
36.30
36.35
Forum member 2 measurements:
Front subframe:
36.43
36.40
36.51
36.58
36.43
36.30
36.40
36.29
Rear subframe:
36.42
36.31
36.39
36.32
My FD is a 93, and forum member number 2 has a 95. So regardless of year the numbers are inconsistent.
Smallest measured is 36.3mm
Largest measured is 36.75mm
Average from the above samples is 36.46mm
For me it’s not an issue to change the width in the CAD software before I send the files to get laser cut. However a final decision has to be made. If I use the average width of 36.46, this means that on some U welds which are let’s say 36.3 wide…the outer lock washer won’t fit and some material should have to be taken off from the flat sides of the outer washer, in this specific example 0.08mm per side.
If I use the one size fits all approach…let’s say 36.3mm which is the smallest width from the sample measurements above…this means that if you use this outer washer on a U weld which is 36.75mm wide you will have 0.45mm of play…or 0.225mm per side (worst case scenario).
Now in all honesty these differences are very very small and most likely will not have any effect once the nut is tightened down, but I also know some people are very serious about their suspension and alignment settings, and this thread is for you. If you are OCD like me and super serious about your alignment, please let me know what you think. I myself tend to get OCD when it comes to tolerances. I wouldn’t want to make these and send them out to fellow forum members just to have some of you disappointed because there is some very slight play between the U welds and outer washer.
I would like to hear what you guys have to say.
One (KISS) option is to cut the outer washer to the average size of 36.46…and then some will have to take off a bit a material (at most ~0.08mm per side) and some will have a tiny bit of play (at most 0.15mm per side).
One more thing to consider is the laser cut does not always produce 100% exact cuts as even professional machines will sometimes have +/- 0.1mm differences. But my idea is to manually check each outer washer just to make sure they are all cut in spec. If any of the washer do not meat spec they will be discarded.
In a perfect world I would of course prefer to have the outer part of the washer to fit nice and tight against the U weld, so even before you put the nut on the eccentric bolt and tighten it…there would be no play. However because of the inconsistent U weld widths this means that one size does not fit all.
A while back I reached out to a few forum members here. I shared my lock washer designs with them and asked for their help if they could also measure their U weld widths so I can get a better idea of what exact differences are we talking about.
So here are the numbers (in millimeters) I have so far:
My subframes
Rear subframe (factory OEM paint):
36.35
36.40
36.70
36.45
Rear subframe (sand blasted and zinc coated):
36.7
36.7
36.5
36.4
Front subframe (factory OEM paint):
36.35
36.75
36.40
36.30
36.75
36.60
36.30
36.65
Forum member 1 measurements:
36.63
36.51
36.30
36.35
Forum member 2 measurements:
Front subframe:
36.43
36.40
36.51
36.58
36.43
36.30
36.40
36.29
Rear subframe:
36.42
36.31
36.39
36.32
My FD is a 93, and forum member number 2 has a 95. So regardless of year the numbers are inconsistent.
Smallest measured is 36.3mm
Largest measured is 36.75mm
Average from the above samples is 36.46mm
For me it’s not an issue to change the width in the CAD software before I send the files to get laser cut. However a final decision has to be made. If I use the average width of 36.46, this means that on some U welds which are let’s say 36.3 wide…the outer lock washer won’t fit and some material should have to be taken off from the flat sides of the outer washer, in this specific example 0.08mm per side.
If I use the one size fits all approach…let’s say 36.3mm which is the smallest width from the sample measurements above…this means that if you use this outer washer on a U weld which is 36.75mm wide you will have 0.45mm of play…or 0.225mm per side (worst case scenario).
Now in all honesty these differences are very very small and most likely will not have any effect once the nut is tightened down, but I also know some people are very serious about their suspension and alignment settings, and this thread is for you. If you are OCD like me and super serious about your alignment, please let me know what you think. I myself tend to get OCD when it comes to tolerances. I wouldn’t want to make these and send them out to fellow forum members just to have some of you disappointed because there is some very slight play between the U welds and outer washer.
I would like to hear what you guys have to say.
One (KISS) option is to cut the outer washer to the average size of 36.46…and then some will have to take off a bit a material (at most ~0.08mm per side) and some will have a tiny bit of play (at most 0.15mm per side).
One more thing to consider is the laser cut does not always produce 100% exact cuts as even professional machines will sometimes have +/- 0.1mm differences. But my idea is to manually check each outer washer just to make sure they are all cut in spec. If any of the washer do not meat spec they will be discarded.
I took some time this morning and measured my front and rear subframe for you. Mine is a 93 with factory paint ~
Front measurement ~ 1.420 or 36.06 mm
Rear measurement ~ 1.431 or 36.34 mm
New factory H Bolt ~ 1.417 or 35.99
New factory H Bolt washer ~ 1.408 or 35.76 mm
First, thank you for the time and energy on this project. Just a couple notes as an outside opinion. I realize a sloppy fit would be less than desirable, an having one size fit all would be the best of both worlds. Having said that I think you've got in your own head and are splitting hairs. These are not precision pieces of equipment. I believe the only option that would suit everyone would be to use the measurement off of the new H bolt and H washer to make the new locks. I cant speak for everyone but I will say I believe most of us will not be able to tell the minute differences. Upgrading to the newer H Bolt from the older D Bolt is a step in the right direction. Granted it would involve a great cost to instillation for those with the older style but would make your life easier to only offer one that fit the only available option we have when buying a new one from mazda. Just my two cents.
PS~ If you need anymore measurements just let me know. I've got a bunch of both style H & D bolts with washers around.
~ GW
06-13-20 | 01:51 PM
#53
I see no problem.
Please just make the outer adjuster part undersized so they fit all subframes and out of steel.
That way we can choose to spot weld them in place on the subframe or degrease the subframe well and hold them on with GE 100% silicone (for those who dont want to spot weld).
The thinnest layer of this silicone will keep the plate on the subframe and wiping more in the gap between the outer plate and the subframe U- guide will keep it from shifting side to side and popping off the subframe.
I am using the updated Mazda adjusters and had to locktite the plates against the subframe to keep them from turning- which works, but is not easily adjustable.
Please just make the outer adjuster part undersized so they fit all subframes and out of steel.
That way we can choose to spot weld them in place on the subframe or degrease the subframe well and hold them on with GE 100% silicone (for those who dont want to spot weld).
The thinnest layer of this silicone will keep the plate on the subframe and wiping more in the gap between the outer plate and the subframe U- guide will keep it from shifting side to side and popping off the subframe.
I am using the updated Mazda adjusters and had to locktite the plates against the subframe to keep them from turning- which works, but is not easily adjustable.
06-14-20 | 04:13 PM
#55
06-15-20 | 11:12 AM
#56
I see no problem.
Please just make the outer adjuster part undersized so they fit all subframes and out of steel.
That way we can choose to spot weld them in place on the subframe or degrease the subframe well and hold them on with GE 100% silicone (for those who dont want to spot weld).
The thinnest layer of this silicone will keep the plate on the subframe and wiping more in the gap between the outer plate and the subframe U- guide will keep it from shifting side to side and popping off the subframe.
I am using the updated Mazda adjusters and had to locktite the plates against the subframe to keep them from turning- which works, but is not easily adjustable.
Please just make the outer adjuster part undersized so they fit all subframes and out of steel.
That way we can choose to spot weld them in place on the subframe or degrease the subframe well and hold them on with GE 100% silicone (for those who dont want to spot weld).
The thinnest layer of this silicone will keep the plate on the subframe and wiping more in the gap between the outer plate and the subframe U- guide will keep it from shifting side to side and popping off the subframe.
I am using the updated Mazda adjusters and had to locktite the plates against the subframe to keep them from turning- which works, but is not easily adjustable.
06-16-20 | 10:24 AM
#59
IMO, the obvious answer is to make the locking washer the widest measurement. We're talking about sanding down 0.25 millimetres on each side. I don't want to have to spot weld something as sand paper is much easier to come by than a welder. As Spalato stated the purpose of this product is to "virtually eliminate any play between the inner washer and outer ring, to make sure the outer ring sits snugly against the U “guide”, as well as making sure the inner washer fits snugly on the bolt (unlike Mazda’s OEM washer which has significant play between the washer and bolts)". So why back peddle and add the possibility of play/movement back into the design when the easy solution is sheet of sand paper?
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sharingan 19 (07-25-24)
06-16-20 | 11:09 AM
#60
Full Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 1
From: England
IMO, the obvious answer is to make the locking washer the widest measurement. We're talking about sanding down 0.25 millimetres on each side. I don't want to have to spot weld something as sand paper is much easier to come by than a welder. As Spalato stated the purpose of this product is to "virtually eliminate any play between the inner washer and outer ring, to make sure the outer ring sits snugly against the U “guide”, as well as making sure the inner washer fits snugly on the bolt (unlike Mazda’s OEM washer which has significant play between the washer and bolts)". So why back peddle and add the possibility of play/movement back into the design when the easy solution is sheet of sand paper?
The following users liked this post:
Cobranut (04-16-21)
06-16-20 | 11:18 AM
#61
How would you gain the clearance on the subframe U channel? Flat file?
I would suggest maybe using the weighted average width hoping that would cover the majority of cases. I don't think a 0.2 mm would make that much of a difference either way once the bolts are tight given the design of the washer thingy.
I would suggest maybe using the weighted average width hoping that would cover the majority of cases. I don't think a 0.2 mm would make that much of a difference either way once the bolts are tight given the design of the washer thingy.
06-16-20 | 01:29 PM
#62
Hi guys! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
First to clarify some confusion regarding the spot welding. This scenario is just for someone who wants a fixed setting always, i.e. someone who doesn't want to ever change their specific alignment setting. As mentioned by YellowT2 the outer part has to be able to slide up and down in order to change alignment.
This could be done but for the sake of simplicity I would rather not go down this road as most people will be put off by any spot welding and additional work. However your comment about using a thin layer of silicone to fill any side gaps seems like a good approach.
The only thing that you would have to pay attention to is a) removing material from both sides and not just one and b) trying your best to remove the material parallel to the original cut, as the U guides have two flat spots left and right which sit nicely against the outer washer flat sides.
One of my first prototypes was over-sized and I used some sand paper on a hard flat surface and removed a bit of material by hand. It wasn't too bad but does require elbow grease and after a bit of sanding I was able to get a very nice tight fit. Second one I used a power file and it went super quick, just have to be careful not remove too much material with the power file and also have to make sure to remove the material in a parallel fashion to avoid skewing the sides, if that makes sense.
In terms of the weighted average vs. over-sized its really up to the community to decide as I can easily update the CAD file before I send them to get cut. The only comment I have regarding this that regardless if you use the average or over-sized you will be removing material on a few of them for sure, and considering there is only 6 per FD...might as well get them over-sized and put in a more elbow grease...just my 2c. But as I said I want to hear what you guys think.
Hi Marky, I'm waiting to get some samples in before I nail the final design. I'm very close and I see no reason why this GB should drag on for a longer time, so I hope to have the final design set soon, do a few tests (I have an FD owner who tracks his car regularly willing to test them in racing conditions) and get them made as soon as we determine all the final details.
First to clarify some confusion regarding the spot welding. This scenario is just for someone who wants a fixed setting always, i.e. someone who doesn't want to ever change their specific alignment setting. As mentioned by YellowT2 the outer part has to be able to slide up and down in order to change alignment.
IMO, the obvious answer is to make the locking washer the widest measurement. We're talking about sanding down 0.25 millimetres on each side. I don't want to have to spot weld something as sand paper is much easier to come by than a welder. As Spalato stated the purpose of this product is to "virtually eliminate any play between the inner washer and outer ring, to make sure the outer ring sits snugly against the U “guide”, as well as making sure the inner washer fits snugly on the bolt (unlike Mazda’s OEM washer which has significant play between the washer and bolts)". So why back peddle and add the possibility of play/movement back into the design when the easy solution is sheet of sand paper?
How would you gain the clearance on the subframe U channel? Flat file?
I would suggest maybe using the weighted average width hoping that would cover the majority of cases. I don't think a 0.2 mm would make that much of a difference either way once the bolts are tight given the design of the washer thingy.
I would suggest maybe using the weighted average width hoping that would cover the majority of cases. I don't think a 0.2 mm would make that much of a difference either way once the bolts are tight given the design of the washer thingy.
In terms of the weighted average vs. over-sized its really up to the community to decide as I can easily update the CAD file before I send them to get cut. The only comment I have regarding this that regardless if you use the average or over-sized you will be removing material on a few of them for sure, and considering there is only 6 per FD...might as well get them over-sized and put in a more elbow grease...just my 2c. But as I said I want to hear what you guys think.
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gracer7-rx7 (06-17-20)
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FourtyOunce (06-19-20)
06-18-20 | 11:16 AM
#65
06-18-20 | 11:18 AM
#66
06-18-20 | 12:24 PM
#67
Matt
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gdub29e (06-25-20)
06-28-20 | 10:37 PM
#70
1. Cloud9 - D-Style bolts x1 set
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
06-29-20 | 04:43 PM
#71
1. Cloud9 - D-Style bolts x1 set
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
29. REAmFC3S - x1 set H style
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
29. REAmFC3S - x1 set H style
06-29-20 | 07:13 PM
#72
1. Cloud9 - D-Style bolts x1 set
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
29. REAmFC3S - x1 set H style
30. bigpanda - x1 set H style
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
29. REAmFC3S - x1 set H style
30. bigpanda - x1 set H style
07-02-20 | 09:01 PM
#73
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
1. Cloud9 - D-Style bolts x1 set
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
29. REAmFC3S - x1 set H style
30. bigpanda - x1 set H style
31. w4kj4k - x1 need to confirm type( will update after)
2. Dannng - D-Style bolts x1 set
3. Wazway - D style bolts x1 set (unless you sell H-bolts as well as an "upgraded" setup)
4. estevan62274 - D-Style bolts x1 set
5. Yellowt2 - x1 set (need to check which style bolts I have)
6. Narfle - D-Style bolts x1 set (interested in H-bolt options)
7. SonnyDeez -D-Style x1 set (confirmed it is D)
8. BLUE TII - "H" bolts 1x set
9. Zweetz32 - D-style bolts 1 set. Will double check if it's D or H
10. su_maverick - x1 set but need to check bolts
11.7krayziboi -H-style x1***
12. drifter-s - D-style bolts x1 set
13. primerGrey - D-style bolts x1 set
14. ColdFeet - D-style bolts x2 sets (need to confirm if D or H)
15. candrzej2 - D-style x1 set
16. Akomix - D-Style x1 set
17. James2u - H-style x1 set
18. Chon - x1 set (need to confirm D or H style
19. NorthernRebel27 - X1 set D-style
20. Petawabit - x1 set, need to confirm compatibility with my subframe
21. Gdub29e ~ x1 set with new H style.
22. Davin - x1 (need to confirm)
23. ad4ever - x2 set, with H style
24. Marky x1 set, need to confirm type (UK)
25. briansfd x1 set, need to confirm type
26. TomU - H-style x1
27. Macer x1 set - need to confirm type ('96 RHD)
28. neit_jnf - x1 set D style
29. REAmFC3S - x1 set H style
30. bigpanda - x1 set H style
31. w4kj4k - x1 need to confirm type( will update after)
07-02-20 | 09:43 PM
#74
I'm interested. Problem with the D style bolt is that is wears the washer down and makes it become loose. It's why I believe the changed to the H design to prevent that from happening. I'd recommend everyone just get the H style and also buy new H bolts.
07-02-20 | 10:52 PM
#75
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
Thanks for the heads up! I’ve been researching the difference and thinking about just getting H bolts anyways if I don’t already have them.