Rotary Extreme FC vmount interest
05-31-11, 06:33 PM
#451
Now that is what I wanted to hear from a guy who is OCD about his products. Oh and wasnt planing on copying just wanted to see the angles, gaps, and any space that got opened up after everything is bolted down with out having a motor, front bumper, and fenders in the way of your craftsmanship.
It will be easy to make any additional ducting for the bottom because the I/C's bolt up as the last thing on top.
The ducting I provide is good enough to take it as is, but if you want air tight gaps you'ull need to do that.
I would just let everyone know that at high speeds, like above 100mph you will start to build up a high pressure zone in the front of the vmount. This is why you will need a small gap to relieve this so that air can still flow through and not act like a buffer at high speed. There is a small gap where the I/C meets the radiator core.
DO NOT COVER IT.
That is there for that reason and also so the cores to not damage each other obviously.
Do what you want with the sides and bottom, just do not close that gap between the top of the rad and I/C.
Ben
05-31-11, 06:39 PM
#452
Projected completion date? I might pick the track mount up before I do Coils and Rims/Tires. It looks beautiful. I'll probably end up doing the combo (Track V-Mount, Hood Dampers, and the Battery Box). Does the Battery Box come with a battery or do we have to purchase that separately? Once again it looks great! Job well done 
I am going to Canada for 3 weeks in July.
I shopuld everything done in August.
GB will last for a month to allow people to join.
I need 5 people minimum for GB pricing for the vmount.
I need 7 people minimum for Combo GB pricing.
It does not have to be 5 of one kit, it will be the number of total kits.
It will take about 6 weeks to make and polish them all.
These will not be done in time for sevenstock. I was not able to make my own personal deadline with this kit and I got a hang up which costed me a few months.
Sorry about that.
Ben
06-01-11, 05:23 AM
#454
I Hope you was jokeing but if not then, OCD is Obsessive–compulsive disorder. Now since your not letting a single one roll out the door with out checking for fit and spend the last two years in R&D, getting everything just right. I'm going to say you might have a small OCD problem, but hell thank you for having it.
06-04-11, 07:11 AM
#456
If you guys were wondering.
The electric fan is 14 diameter ( the blade tip to blade tip ) made by flex-a-lite. It draws 11 amps and pulls 2000cfm.
The Derale electric fan controller uses a threaded probe that will be screwed into the rad end tank. I chose this unit because it has a built in override signal that will be tapped into the a/c positive signal. I chose the controller over the flex-a-lite controller for 3 reasons.
1. cost effective, 100 cheaper then the flex-a-lite controller.
2. the 100 more unit has a variable speed controller which has the fans come on at 60 percent then ramps them upto 100 percent. This might be useful if you have a fan pulling 20 amps, but I engineered this kit so that EVERYTHING will work with each other in the most cost effective and efficient way.
3. believe of not the cheaper derale unit comes with a harness connector that plugs into the controller and all you have to do is connect the wires where they need to go. The more expensive flex-a-lite unit did not have a harness connector. You would have to crimp each wire and then plug each female connection to the male connection on the unit. The unit had 9 male connections and not all are used for my configuration. I did not want any accidents to happen like plugging the override signal in wrong or bat power in wrong.
I wouldn't make you guys uses a push through probe in the fins with my kit. You have to adjust the potentiometer yourself with a screwdriver. I believe the range is from 150 to 220 degrees. If you set it at 185, it will turn on at 185 then turn off once it reaches 10 degree lower at 175.
Everything is a tight fit, the rad has 2 inch clearance from it and the nuts on the clutch fan pulley. I found a fan that will work.
Again the fan and temp prob will come pre-attached to the rad. All you have to do is wire it up using my instructions.
The built in a/c override circuit will turn on the fan when you turn on your a/c and turn off when you turn a/c off, but it will also run in accordance with what ever water temp you have it set at.
Again people just tuning in, spy shots of stock turbo vmount on page 18.
Ben
The electric fan is 14 diameter ( the blade tip to blade tip ) made by flex-a-lite. It draws 11 amps and pulls 2000cfm.
The Derale electric fan controller uses a threaded probe that will be screwed into the rad end tank. I chose this unit because it has a built in override signal that will be tapped into the a/c positive signal. I chose the controller over the flex-a-lite controller for 3 reasons.
1. cost effective, 100 cheaper then the flex-a-lite controller.
2. the 100 more unit has a variable speed controller which has the fans come on at 60 percent then ramps them upto 100 percent. This might be useful if you have a fan pulling 20 amps, but I engineered this kit so that EVERYTHING will work with each other in the most cost effective and efficient way.
3. believe of not the cheaper derale unit comes with a harness connector that plugs into the controller and all you have to do is connect the wires where they need to go. The more expensive flex-a-lite unit did not have a harness connector. You would have to crimp each wire and then plug each female connection to the male connection on the unit. The unit had 9 male connections and not all are used for my configuration. I did not want any accidents to happen like plugging the override signal in wrong or bat power in wrong.
I wouldn't make you guys uses a push through probe in the fins with my kit. You have to adjust the potentiometer yourself with a screwdriver. I believe the range is from 150 to 220 degrees. If you set it at 185, it will turn on at 185 then turn off once it reaches 10 degree lower at 175.
Everything is a tight fit, the rad has 2 inch clearance from it and the nuts on the clutch fan pulley. I found a fan that will work.
Again the fan and temp prob will come pre-attached to the rad. All you have to do is wire it up using my instructions.
The built in a/c override circuit will turn on the fan when you turn on your a/c and turn off when you turn a/c off, but it will also run in accordance with what ever water temp you have it set at.
Again people just tuning in, spy shots of stock turbo vmount on page 18.
Ben
06-04-11, 07:22 AM
#457
I Hope you was jokeing but if not then, OCD is Obsessive–compulsive disorder. Now since your not letting a single one roll out the door with out checking for fit and spend the last two years in R&D, getting everything just right. I'm going to say you might have a small OCD problem, but hell thank you for having it.
The more I think about it, and with what I have read on the net, I am sure I have a small case of it.
Maybe thats why I always get back to my customers in a timely manner because if I don't I feel I let them down. Also because once I start something, I will finish it. It bugs the hell out of me to abort something because I will think about it for years wondering if I could have done something to make it better.
But then maybe its good trait to have in my situation like you said....lol
At least you know I care about what I do.
I can't wait to see the track mount and monster vmounts done.
Oh and by the way I said it before and I'll say it again. New earls stainless steel braided lines and fittings for the oil cooler are supplied because I had to relocate the oil cooler. They will be pressure tested and tagged that they were.
Well time to go to bed.
Ben
06-06-11, 07:43 PM
#461
The piping is long on the kit you see because it is made for the stock turbo with stock airbox. The piping length is also the same you would have on a front mount, but a front mount will affect the air going to the radiator which has the a/c in front of it. Also the piping for stock turbo is 2 inch diameter so velocity is maintained.
Vmounts are also not originally intended to use a/c, that is a luxury.
It is very difficult to make a cost effective vmount that still retains A/C and all emmsion sensors that is a shippable kit.
I could have provided a shorter radiator to allow the turbo piping to go straight to the turbo, or a radiator that has a more shallow angle. Cooling is very important on a rotary and that should not be sacrificed.
What good are short pipes if your cars cooling system is sacrificed because of it.
The stock turbo vmount allows you the best of everything if you want a daily driver while staying smog legal under the hood.
If a cop pops your hood, you have your stock airbox and all emmisions is hooked up. You do not need CARB on a different radiator and intercooler.
Also the way I rate my kits is what the I/C can support already heat-soaked. So when I tell you that the baby stock turbo airbox and stock vmount will support upto 300whp. That means that you can do what ever the hell you want to the engine and boost what ever you want, as long as the car has the stock turbo you will never need a bigger cooler. Garret cores are designed very dense so that you get more cooling from a smaller core. You can time attack all day long and touge all night long until your tires are bald. The stock turbo just can't do much but create alot of heat when pushed and thats when you go with a bigger turbo for more power and then I've got the set-up perfectly designed for you next power needs.
This is why I have 3 kits.
Each one is designed to match your set-up the best as possible.
In racing, the saying "one size fits all" can hurt your overall performance.
Remember you need a kit the will benifit your set-up to give you good throttle control and turbo response based on your set-up.
You can get any kit you want, but if you want to have the best set-up you need one that matches your set-up.
Rotary Extreme Vmounts.
3 power levels for the FC and FD, 6 vmounts offered by me.
Rotary Extreme Vmounts = WINNING ...lol
06-06-11, 08:30 PM
#462
The track/touge and monster/drag vmounts will have direct piping from the turbo to IC.
A note for the stock turbo vmount: If I make an end tank that makes you remove your stock airbox and creates a more direct path to the turbo, I will save about 2 to 3 feet and about 100 bucks.
It does seem like a better deal, but you have to know why I made the stock turbo/stock airbox vmount in the first place.
I did it stay smog/emission legal and to have a very nice, reliably and functional upgrade.
That is why it is designed as such.
A note for the stock turbo vmount: If I make an end tank that makes you remove your stock airbox and creates a more direct path to the turbo, I will save about 2 to 3 feet and about 100 bucks.
It does seem like a better deal, but you have to know why I made the stock turbo/stock airbox vmount in the first place.
I did it stay smog/emission legal and to have a very nice, reliably and functional upgrade.
That is why it is designed as such.
06-10-11, 02:45 AM
#468
Correct, too many variables to deal with. I also do not want to offer something that requires so much modification that you have to spend twice the money to make it work.
It is better to perfect it yourself.
Also I do not supply major ducting because it will drive the cost up by at least 200 to 300 for the kit, then you will have to drill the holes in the sheet metal because pre-drilled holes will be off due to body flex and or cars that have been in an accident. That is why I am providing only the ducting that goes on my brackets.
The turbo elbow is easy. I do not know what everyone turbo outlet size will be and where the modified mannifold will put their turbo. That is why it is the customers job to take it to a shop of if they can do it their self to properly complete that section.
I do not like to half *** stuff.
I sell BOV's and you can put it anywhere in the kit.
Also, I feel that my kit is solid and legit and I do not need to included additional perks to hide the flaws in my kit.
Ben
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; 06-10-11 at 02:55 AM.
