I'll probably keep my eye out for a pfc. I don't want to raise the power to much. I had that problem with my last project kept raising the power until nothing is reliable. If I get a pfc I'd try to keep it near stock boost, maybe just free up the intake and exhaust and delete some emissions stuff.
I'm just trying to keep a low budget.

 

What's a good place to go for coolant hoses? Like all the ones on the engine? Still Atkins.

 

Oops, should have paid more attention to the pictures.

The local Mazda dealer has them. Might be a day wait as they order.

 

thanks for this thread pic are always good
as someone who has a stock 12A that needs to be rebuilt
the more info i get the more confidence i have about tearing into it
just the price for these kits are crazy
any way diesel keep up the good work like to see more pics and your thoughts
on what you would do differently

 

Probably wouldn't do a lot differently. But I'm not done. Snow hit the ground up here so I'm not in a real hurry at all. I'd like to get everything put back together and confirm it works and then park it till spring. Right now gotta pull out the irons and get them all nice and painted, then I will assemble the rotors, and then eventually start putting stuff back together. Still a long road ahead. I think getting the block or whatever you want to call it back together will be the easy part. Then I gotta worry about redoing some of the wiring harness and then figuring out the **** storm of vacuum lines.

 

I hear ya winter is natures way of telling us to rebuild your car or Motorcycles

 

Well its been almost two months since I've done a whole lot with the car between having plans and being a lazy **** I've done pretty much **** all lol.
anyways since I had this weekend pretty much all to myself and a four day weekend next weekend because my plans fell through, I'm going to try to get the engine assembled by the end of next weekend. Shouldn't be to difficult.
started by moving all the parts and parts washer from the unheated barn into the heated shop.


started today with prepping the rotors. Side seals ruffed into place on the front rotor



Then both rotors


Then grinding the side seals clearances to 0.002-0.003


oil control rings installed in the front rotor


Then both rotors


all seals lubed up and apex seals and springs set in place on the front rotor. basically ready to drop into the engine


Then both rotors


front iron painted, that's alot of taping for very little painting.



and stopping point for tonight, front housing taped off and ready for paint tomorrow


hope to get all the housings and irons painted tomorrow.

 

One thing to consider for the painting... You can save a lot of time if you stack all the irons together, and the two housings together, than just tape off the exposed parts.

Also, of you have a spare (junk) motor you can use parts from that (like a front cover) to make the masking even easier.

Just a thought, it can (will) save you hours of taping

 

unfortunately no spare engines. oh well, hopefully I only have to do this once

 

so if i have a choice of getting oem vs ra super seals for relatively the same price for my gt35r i should be better off ra super seals?

 

I got my "Super Seals" from here: Rotary Engine Apex Seals | Iannetti Apex Seals | Mazda Apex Seals | Super Seals

Rumor has it they are practically the same as the RA ones, minus the chewed up housings.

 

updates from today
got the front housing painted


centre iron painted


rear iron taped up and ready for paint


front iron with the tape removed


And a preview of what it could look like once finished.

 

I'm almost done putting the short block bak together but I've found that my oil pump binds a bit at one point. If I loosen the bolts the binding gets better. My atkins rebuild video said to watch for binding but it didn't say what to do if it does bind. What do?

 

How tight are you making the bolts? As I recall, it's very low torque, something like 10 inch pounds. Use red Loctite.

 

My Atkins kit says like 5 ft-lbs. they have lock washers so I'm not sure if they need locktight. I was able to work most of the binding out by playing with the bolts. You could still
Make it bind at one spot if you spun it real slow, but if you spun it with any speed there was nothing. That was good enough for me do I finished the rest of assembly.

 

Also how do people usually install the oilpan. Use the gasket with gasket sealant on both sides or like a gasket maker like "the right stuff"?

 

Well now that I've started cleaning the matting surface there are grooves so rtv black plus gasket sealant plus gasket?