so me and a few of my friends are bored. we have some tubular steel and sheet metal, some spare cars parts and access to a 12a. now, if you cant see where i am going with this, you suck. ive heard about the single rotors and that seems like a viable option. because who wouldnt want a 60 hp go kart? the chassis isnt that big of a concern becuase we are making it from scratch. but the "how to get a single rotor to work properly" thing is kinda bugging at me.

biggest concerns are as follows

1. the balancing required. would i need both counterweights from the 12a? i think i would need only to get a balance but i could be very wrong. (thats why i am asking)

2. igniton concerns. would there be some adverse affect from using the the factory timing / igntion system? i would obviously only have half of the ignition connected and the other half eiter block from the circuit or remove completely somehow. damn distributor! why cant you be like the 2nd gen!

 

I'd like to do a single rotor engine someday.

It's a whole lot easier to get ignition on a single rotor engine with a distributor than with 2nd gen parts, unless you used some sort of ECU or something and both trailing coils with seperate ignitors or something. Anyway, you could do it the Atkins way, or you could do it my way. I'm going to leave the four tooth reluctor where it is along with the leading pickup and leading ignitor. The leading spark plug will spark at 0° and 180° just like a 2nd gen (and yet there's only one rotor!). Trailing is optional, but I think I'll install a shaved reluctor at the top of the shaft and move the trailing pickup up there as well. The two teeth will send only one tooth past the pickup per rev, which is what you want (the dizzy spins half eccentric speed). The Atkins way is to just shave two teeth from the original reluctor and leave it in the original position along with both pickups and ignitors. The end result is only one spark from each plug per rotor face which is the same as a stock dizzy on a 12A. My way adds an extra spark to the leading plug with I've found helps with driveability, easier starts, less smelly exhaust, and in my case, more power. It even made the exhaust note change to an FC-like smoothness compared to the 1st gen 4 cylinder-like (choppier) sound. I'm curious what a single rotor engine will sound like with my ignition idea since I've never heard one with it before.

The balancing can be done by Atkins although I think they'd recommend using 13B stuff since they may not be doing 12A eccentric shafts and tension bolt sets anymore.

 

Why use a single rotor?

Build a 2-rotor and I know a guy who's crazy enough to drive it.

 

why stop at a "go-cart"?

http://www.arielmotor.co.uk//

-b

 

build a roll cage for it and i'll drive it with a 2 rotor hahaha

 

does it have to be a rotor ?image a 50 or 80cc two stroke on that badboy!

 

Somthing like this?

http://www.swissrocketman.com/ete10.html

 

well if the rotor falls through (though that is like, the ENTIRE point of the thing) i always have a 3cyclinder metro motor....

 

nothing crazy like that drag cart though. the local track has an open competiton karting track and well, i would like to dominate.

 

good luck man keep us posted

 

damm that's crazy i retract my statement about driving that beast. hitting 8's in a go kart, u must be insane to drive that thing

 

Been there, done that. Well, sort of.

A few years ago I had plans to build a "6A" go-kart, so I got a 12A and pulled it apart. Discarded one housing (actually, turning it into a BBQ right now) and the center iron (currently a bookend). I cut the "gear" off the front stationary gear, as to leave a little more then half the bearing (including the oil groove). The rear was left alone. Essentially, the engine then bolts directly together.

I had initially intended to have my machinest make a new eccentric, but then I saw the Atkins 13B single rotor (6.5B? ) shaft. So decided to switch to an earlier 13B housing to match the 12A plates I had, and use a 13B rotor. But shortly after, things got busy and I lost interest, so it was never put together.

Fuel and ignition are easy. My plan was a very rudimentary fuel system based on a TPS, MAP sensor and simple National Semiconductor PWM chip. It would drive two small injectors (Geo Metro?). Ignition would be magneto style, based off a Briggs and Statton lawnmower.

Now that I think about it, I should probably finish the project and put it on a scooter.

 

Beef the chassis and instead of a 'go kart', make a buggy that can handle the power. I made a desert buggy once using a Kawasaki 440 for the powerplant and VW rabbit and golf cart parts for suspension and drivetrain. 0-60 in around 4 or 5 seconds. Took jumps and handled good. You can get some plans here. http://www.edge.au.com/ These guys even put a modded WRX engine in one.