turb0wnd

How does your EGI fuse look?

4thgenlude

The EGI fuse under the hood is good, (tested for continuity), and so is the ''main" fuse under the hood, and the "engine" fuse by the clutch pedal, is also good.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Have you made sure that the CAS is in the right position in Reference to the Pulley marks?..align the Front Pulley to the Marks..Now Pull out the CAS ..from the Engine..look at the Bottom shaft of the CAS,you will see a Reference mark on the outer BOTTOM shaft of the CAS(the shaft that you pulled out from the Engine),and the other Mark is on the Little gear that is at the bottom of the CAS..align those two marks and When you Install the CAS make sure that the CAS internals and the outer part of it Don't Move,or you will throw off the "timing"..Now your Engine is TIMED.(pretty close to Factory)..Make sure the CAS is hooked up,also the AFM(the big connector at the stock Air Box..or your Cone filter,whatever you have on)..You shoulD make sure that the Plugs are Fresh and Clean and the engine is Deflooded.. Roll the engine over with Plugs out for about Twenty Seconds with NO EGI FUSES IN...Now put Plugs in and make sure the EGI fuses are IN.and the Plug wires are On Correctly....I hope that may have helped you...STYX!~

4thgenlude

Ive found out that the ECU ground pin 3G, is not grounded. It does not have continuity with the negative battery post.

After discovering that, the car decided that it no longer wanted to even crank over. Im pissed!!! lol

npw I have to figure out why its not cranking over!!

Rocking Rotary

iTrader: (14)

Have you ohmed the cas? You may what to do that charlie thats what sends the signal to coil packs. Is your tach bouncing or moving at all?

4thgenlude

yeah, the resistance checks out. It was 165 ohms on each side.

However the continuity does not.

I checked the continuity based on these pics:






And it definitely did not have continuity like it should. Im guessing i need a new wiring harness??

4thgenlude

Okay, Im buying a running parts car on Sunday for $350. Its an 86 everything will work right?

cynikal

you said no spark have you tested resistance of the coils? if its out of spec try cleaning them off if that doesnt work replace them also you cikd try taking a noid light to see if your injectors are getting a pulse if the rail is getting fuel maybe the injectors are not getting pulse wich would not open them and your ecu controls ground for the injectors so if they are not getting a pukse you might just have a bad ground going to ECU or bad ecu in itself

4thgenlude

I appreciate the effort but, its already been covered that the injectors arent firing.

They arent firing because the ECU isnt getting power, and the signal from the CAS isnt getting to the ECU.

Im pretty sure those two reasons are enough to cause the car not to start.


thanks for the reply though!

rotorrx04

hey did the car the engine came out of have a little steel box under the air box .and the car u put the engine in not have?.........also whenyou put the motor in did you have complete mtr and harness, you had to just run in the passenger fire wall?you may have an N-80's wireing harness and an N-90's ecu (numbers wrong but you get the idea..anyway i had same prob. found used harness for the car matching ecu's and put on the mtr ran fine (after fuel prime and 2 sets of pluggz)..on a side note with an extra harness you check it end to end for brittle spots bad wireing ect.replace all spots with new wire and soder.hope it helps...check spark with pluggs out(you hold aginst mtr)while buddy cranks engine.good luck and drop me a line if any more q's

4thgenlude

Well I figured out the problem!

It was easier than I thought. You know those orange connectors that are above the ECU? Yeah, well I though there was only one. Turns out there are two of em!

lol

easiest fix to the biggest headache ever.

lol