Alright guys I have been trying to figure out whats wrong with my car, Cold starts are really rough I have to crank it for a while before it starts, sometimes I have to crank it twice before it turns over but when its warmed up the car starts right up, Also when I am going to start on a hill the car has no torque to start it just dies, and yes I know how to drive. I have a 1988 rx7 fc NON turbo. What could be the issue here?

 

bump

 

Starting the car w/the nose pointing uphill? A number of members have made the same statement.

What is the idle speed immediately after a cold start? Does it at least start at 1400 rpm or so before slowly dropping as the engine warms up or does it skip that aspect of warming up and idles at close to 800 rpm right after starting?

Have you checked the water thermosensor? Should read between 2 to 3 volts at the ECU (Green/White wire) w/key to on on a cold engine. As the engine warms up the voltage value drops to close to .5 volts.

 

Yes with the nose pointing uphill, and the idle on cold starts is about 2000 rpm, and no I havent checked the thermosensor I will have to look that up, I also have to fill my coolant every one in a while

 

One of the first things I noticed was my car would have a hard time starting on an incline.
Of Course I had to be showing it off at the time sayin: " listen to this it starts and runs like a top!!"

Solution..park the car on a flatter surface.

If you have to put coolant in "every once in a while" then you need to look at that issue.
It can be a leak or the engine is eating coolant..So if you avoid the filling up of coolant then you may as well plan to put another engine in the car.
Then again if the engine is indeed ingesting coolant then you know what that entails..rebuild or replace.

 

When I said starting on a hill I mean like If I hit a red light on a incline it feels like it doesn't have enough power to get up and just dies, Like its not getting fuel or something.

 

Also I am always checking my fluid levels and bleed the system every time I fill the coolant I am just hoping there is a huge air pocket that is still trapped in the system

 

Satch do I check the thermo sensor at the ecu with a multi meter? I'm almost positive it is the thermo sensor, but I don't want to order one until I know for sure. I've been trying to find a detailed way to test but I haven't found anything.

 

Pin 2I of the ECU using the multimeter (the bolts holding the ECU in place can be used as a ground source).

 

If It doesnt read the right voltage I need to get a new one?

 

Depends. Most of the time it's a poor connection at fault.

 

I just checked it right now It read 2.3 volts car off, 2.1 with car running and gradually decreased to .6/7

 

When I went to check it, there was an ecu that was bolted to the bracked unplugged and the one that is hooked up was just laying on the floor.

 

These numbers are within spec.

 

where do I go from here?

 

Pin 3B (Black/Blue wire) needs to have close to 10 volts w/key to start. It's required because this voltage tells the ECU that the engine is being started and the ECU then decides which start map to use which is then dependent on temp. And the BAC is also used to start a car (w/o it the engine would be more difficult to start). And there's always the chance that your engine is just showing signs of being tired.

 

Did a compression test with a piston tester with shrader valve removed, 90 psi no fluctuation on front and 90 no fluctiation on rear, I didnt screw the tester in very hard either

 

So I realized my bac lave was disconnected, I drove it and it felt a lot better but When I was at less than a quarter of gas my car would feel like it would fuel cut, no power whats so ever unless I revved it high it would actually move, I filled it up with gas and it ran perfect. So could my fuel pump be going out? Could the fuel pump assist with the hard cold starts? Please help

 

95 on rear and 95 on front* didn't mean to put 90

 

Could be the pump or the fuel sock on the pump. If the BAC being connected doesn't help w/the cold start problem you've been having then before a true cold start you could unplug the AFM followed by jumpering the fuel check connector and this will cause more fuel to be used. If this fixes the cold start problem then it indicates the engine is not getting the correct amount of fuel which could caused by the problem you recently noticed or perhaps the primary injectors are in need of a cleaning. Do not continue to run the engine w/the AFM unplugged for it will cause the exhaust manifold to glow and so on.

 

When saying fuel sock is that also known as a strainer?

 

Perhaps, but I don't know for sure other than their is a sock on the fuel pump which can become clogged over time.

 

Guys I need help asap, I need to know how to depressurize mtly fuel system on my 88 fc. I am changing the fuel pump sock/strainer