FD issue bleeding the brakes
04-12-11 | 02:03 PM
#26
Passenger
Posts: n/a
After re-reading the complete thread, I noticed you've been having half brake pedal pressure since the beginning.
Now my question is, did you ever remove your calipers in the progress of installing you brake lines? If so, double check your calipers to make sure they arent jammed or stuck. A stuck piston will for sure do what you're describing.
-AzEKnightz
Now my question is, did you ever remove your calipers in the progress of installing you brake lines? If so, double check your calipers to make sure they arent jammed or stuck. A stuck piston will for sure do what you're describing.
-AzEKnightz
I did remove my calipers and cleaned the outside a bit. when i put them back the pistons seemed to work fine. How can you check if the pistons are stuck?
04-12-11 | 02:12 PM
#27
ok, sounded like you've bleed that RR wheel really good when you have a constant stream of fluid coming out.
To test if the calipers are getting stuck, pretty much have someone hold pressure on the pedal and check spin all wheels to makes sure they are holding and not able to hand spin it.
After that, have them release the brake pedal and hand spin each wheel/tire. The wheel and tire that have a drag or takes extra effort to turn by hand is probably binding or getting stuck. Remove caliper and clean it and retract the piston put a piece of 4x4 wood in there and have another person press on the pedal. It would move out smoothly and retract smoothly. If not, then you caliper might need a rebuild, or piston removed to be clean and free.
-AzEKnightz
To test if the calipers are getting stuck, pretty much have someone hold pressure on the pedal and check spin all wheels to makes sure they are holding and not able to hand spin it.
After that, have them release the brake pedal and hand spin each wheel/tire. The wheel and tire that have a drag or takes extra effort to turn by hand is probably binding or getting stuck. Remove caliper and clean it and retract the piston put a piece of 4x4 wood in there and have another person press on the pedal. It would move out smoothly and retract smoothly. If not, then you caliper might need a rebuild, or piston removed to be clean and free.
-AzEKnightz
04-12-11 | 02:22 PM
#28
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Yeah but the thing is that when i thought that the RR wheel has been bled all the way, i move to the next wheel. Then get some more air. I do that until there is not more air and get constant flow. When I repeat the process starting at the RR wheel i get more air coming out.
Another thing is that when I am bleeding the front brakes, my dad pumps the pedal 3 times and then holds it all the way down. I then open the bleeder and his foot goes to the floor. That is normal. When we do this at the rear the pedal just stays at half way.
I did test that and the rotors stop spinning when the brakes are applied.
Another thing is that when I am bleeding the front brakes, my dad pumps the pedal 3 times and then holds it all the way down. I then open the bleeder and his foot goes to the floor. That is normal. When we do this at the rear the pedal just stays at half way.
I did test that and the rotors stop spinning when the brakes are applied.
04-13-11 | 11:38 AM
#30
If a brake booster leaks air, you will have very little assist but not air back into the MC.
-AzEKnightz
04-13-11 | 12:07 PM
#31
Passenger
Posts: n/a
I think I am going to wait till my new master comes in on Friday and do the thread lock paste to make sure there are no leaks at all.
I will make sure I bench bleed the new master before installing it on the car and go from there. I think it honestly has to be the master.
I mean a monkey can install the SS brake lines. The only other thing I did was take the master apart and i might have damage the seals that go between the master and the reservoir.
04-13-11 | 03:01 PM
#33
Passenger
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04-13-11 | 04:28 PM
#34
So this is still the same MC from when the previous owner put in the wrong fluid?
04-13-11 | 09:42 PM
#37
Passenger
Posts: n/a
yup got one on the way and should be receiving it on friday. I spoke to this other dude and he told me to def replace the master and also check the flaring on the lines and make sure they dont have any cracks. He said that sometimes when you put in after market SS braided lines they can be deeper than factory and when you tighten them the lines tend to crack. I will wait until friday when I get it and bleed it then go from there.
Now my issue is my damn idle lol
Now my issue is my damn idle lol
04-13-11 | 10:01 PM
#38
replace the master and do the old school brake bleed method using tubing and a clean container, it is called the one man brake bleed.
connect the tubing to the bleeder, must be a tight fit on the bleeder or it will not work. place enough new brake fluid in the container to cover the hose. open the bleeder and start pumping the pedal slowly. make sure the master level stays up as this process moves the fluid from the master to the container at the caliper. continue until no more bubbles are coming from the hose in the container. close bleeder before removing the hose and move to the next caliper. continue process on all four, rr,lr rf,lf. you have just completed a complete air free brake bleed. remember Do not put the fluid from the container back in the master, it will contaminate the system no matter how clean it looks. been doing it for years, works with one person or two. give it a shot with a new master, should cure all your problems
Joe
connect the tubing to the bleeder, must be a tight fit on the bleeder or it will not work. place enough new brake fluid in the container to cover the hose. open the bleeder and start pumping the pedal slowly. make sure the master level stays up as this process moves the fluid from the master to the container at the caliper. continue until no more bubbles are coming from the hose in the container. close bleeder before removing the hose and move to the next caliper. continue process on all four, rr,lr rf,lf. you have just completed a complete air free brake bleed. remember Do not put the fluid from the container back in the master, it will contaminate the system no matter how clean it looks. been doing it for years, works with one person or two. give it a shot with a new master, should cure all your problems
Joe
04-13-11 | 11:56 PM
#39
By the way where did you buy your MC from? Not sure if you know, but any time you need to replace a stock part on your FD give Ray Crowe a call 888-533-3400 (Parts manager @ Malloy Mazda in virginia). Great prices & fast shipping. 
04-14-11 | 05:14 AM
#40
Passenger
Posts: n/a
04-15-11 | 08:24 PM
#41
Passenger
Posts: n/a
I have replaced the master and problem solved. No more brakes locking up nor air in the brakes
I was driving around the car for like 3 hours in the heat of the afternoon and everything worked fine. Towards the end of the night I went to sweetbay and when I came out and turned my car on my rpm Gauge was dead. When I started to move I saw that my Speed was also gone.
What could this be?
I was driving around the car for like 3 hours in the heat of the afternoon and everything worked fine. Towards the end of the night I went to sweetbay and when I came out and turned my car on my rpm Gauge was dead. When I started to move I saw that my Speed was also gone.
What could this be?
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