Cannot calibrate via Fcon: exact words of HKS dealer who tunes rx7s with fcons (The air sensor is located in the stock RX7 AFM, i you keep that sensor you can use it with the vpro, we dont need it mind you for the vpro. In that case you would need the HKS temp sensor.)

what should I do in simple terms plz

Thanks

 

check the coolant sender is in spec and the plastic top is not loose

check that the wax cam ( if still there ) does not interfere with the idle stop position
( it will if it is just disconnected from the coolant hoses ,, you need to pull the cam back and wire it out of the way )

calibrate the TPS

plug the air leak

and retune the car


,, expect that it is going to do some silly game with the warm up sequence as the stock ecu in the background is clearly not happy with the flags that are up

if it does do mixture corrections for AWS ( US and oz ecu code ) ,, then it may well require the ABSv to be re-installed
or some method to bypass the AWS startup
( such as starting in 5th gear,, provided you have the 4 wire 5th/ reverse switch of oz and US cars )

 

Throttle issue fixed (one of the TB butterflies weren't opening up properly.

New issue: boost gauge fluctuates at idle, car sounds odd/rough at idle/shakes a bit at idle, during accelerating it's fine.

 

an not that -20.3 set in the TPS setting that was on the fcon ??
,,, tell it like it is

you also have -20.5 set in the timing trims,,and the screen dump displays negative split in its current figures
since a piggy back can only retard timing,, it is possible the CAS is shifted aggressively and -20 is set in the Fcon to compensate
yet it can only trim one ig map,, the leading and so the trailing timing is in negative split



so timing check needs to be done to gauge if CAS is moved to more advanced position so as to modify the maps to have some advance over stock
( as the fcon can only delay the spark event )

yet you will not confirm for us what the timing actually is in real time and so our hands are tied as to what to advise next


we need to confirm if the timing actually is at 3 ATDC ( leading ) and 11 BTDC ( trailing ) at 1750 rpm as shown on this log

3 ATDC + 20.5 = 17.5 BTDC,,, about where i expect it to be when trailing is at 11 degrees and motor at 1750 rpm

but is that what is happening at the crank??
without a competent timing check,,a motor killing guesswork

PS
idling at about 1.5 inch Hg ( 34 mm Hg ) is not a good sign the the timing is great,, and you may have an airleak,, or one in the gauge
it should be 15-20 inch Hg

 

Yes this is the setting that it had when it ran fine.


that log was done when I had the problem and it was 30 sec after a cold start (at crank it was -20.5 and it eventually goes to 11 as it warms up the second ignition changes as well as the car warms up




we need to confirm if the timing actually is at 3 ATDC ( leading ) and 11 BTDC ( trailing ) at 1750 rpm as shown on this log

3 ATDC + 20.5 = 17.5 BTDC,,, about where i expect it to be when trailing is at 11 degrees and motor at 1750 rpm

but is that what is happening at the crank??
without a competent timing check,,a motor killing guesswork


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That's what a few of us think it is too, boost/air leak. Brake cleaner test failed so I have to pay $80 for some sophisticated machine to do my leak test