So i just had my engine rebuilt

stock rebuild with pineapple racing kit, stock twins

dp, highflow cat, cb, vacuum hose job, large SMIC, koyo rad, POWER FC, cleaned injectors by RC, new supra fuel pump, new fuel filter, twin intakes, mazdatricks light flywheel, exedy oem clutch and pp, aftermarket fpr with new fuel lines.

the car was run on the dyno before i started the break in, i was told the car died a few times when just idling, and then when he drives and shifts to nuetral and the revs drop from above 2k, they go all the way down and the car just dies. every time.

the only way i can drive it is by tapping the throttle and brake at the same time with my clutch foot, having to move both feet over every time very quickly to keep it alive and not crash.

i was told it might be the flywheel since its so light it revs quick and drops quick but i dont expect every person with a flywheel mod to have it be normal for their car to die on the street.

other then that it shifts fine, and downshifts fine, no noise or hesitation, im off boost of course for the break in, im at about 300 miles.

 

Likely, your idle setup needs to be adjusted. Start here:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...needed-841706/

 

thanks for the response mahjik, honestly i dont know anything other then how to change boost and display settings on the commander, ill take it back to the shop after the break in to get it fixed. they said they will, he just didnt have the time to figure it out after getting the car running, i just talked to him and he said to bring it back in a few weeks.

i read the info, but its way over my head, and i dont want to mess the car up more or run into another issue and have to make another thread or search for another post. i will post more when i find out the issue from the shop.

 

Have you checked the switch on your clutch pedal? On mine the spring inside it was broken and would not let the switch out all the way and thus rpm would drop when i put it in neutral or gear with the clutch in. You can take the switch apart ad replace the spring with a ball point pen spring.

 

where do i find this?

 

I don't think this is your problem based on your description, but it's a quick easy check:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...switch-840474/

Aside from your PFC programming, checking the dashpot is your next step.

 

the white piece does stick out when i press the clutch pedal, it has spring to it as well when i depress the white piece myself. how would i check the dashpot?

 

It's listed in the FSM in the fuel and emissions section. It states that w/the engine running and the rpm close to 3k that the White plastic piece which extends from the Dashpot should come into contact w/the throttle linkage that it rests upon.

 

im not sure what im supposed to get from this, not being sarcastic

also when the car just idles for a few min, it dies. so not sure what that has to do with the white thing. but if i put it in nuetral from under 2k, most of the time it wont die, but sometimes it still does. so i have to blip the throttle to keep it alive

 

Go into the map trace on the comander.

Watch what cells the car goes into when it starts to die.

You can try to add or remove fuel in these cells to stablize the idle.

 

I think I can do that. Thanks!

 

also pay attention to what the timming is doing. If you want to maunally control timming a idle keep reading.

To disable the ECU's control of the timming set the following to zero(settings 1 with datalogit)
Idle A.E-0
Idle E/L-0
Idle A/C-0

turn off(uncheck) Idle/IGN control in the function screen

This will make the idle timming mirror the actual numbers u input on the timing map. You now have manual control of idle. Will have to also make adjustments to the idle set screw and air bleed.

I have a ported engine and was having the same issue, doing this was able to keep the car from dying and got the idle stable. Wasn't an issue till I aggressivly ported the primary runners.

Good luck

 

the clutch switch is good, checked it on the pfc too

it was better after i increased the fuel from 1.0 to like 1.3 in IGL setting, basically the car just needs to be tuned. getting it done this week and hopefully im running great! thanks for the help guys

 

BOV open atmosphere? Or could be a leak...