hey guys,
new to rotaries watched this video awhile back and fell in love with these motors

...anyways, I'm trying to get some info on the fc3s 13bt, like how much power can i make with full exhaust, upgraded fuel system, and turbo and of course a tune.

Apex seals...do 3mm ceramic seals really help? ive read that yes they are better than the 2mm but ive also read that they restrict power and mess up the rotors and the 2mm will be more than great if the engine is tuned properly

also what is the hp/gas mileage difference in porting and which one would be best for that amazing brap sound without too much fuel consumption and sacrifice of reliability (if that even comes into play)
(Standard Port, Mild Port, Extend Port, Bridge Port, Street Port, Monster Port, and Peripheral Port)

whatever port this is is what i want
i know its a 20b but what port does it have?

Also wondering if anyone have ever swapped a 13bt into a S-Chassis and would like to throw some friendly advice because im going to attempt this once i get the money for the swap.

 

Btw, this is for a daily driver, really shooting for a reliable 375 to the wheels

 

I'm pretty sure that's a PP. That's the most aggressive port you can do. It could be a BP, but I don't think so. I wouldn't daily my car if it was a PP though. 375 is definitely doable without going to a PP. Ceramic seals don't do anything for power, I've hear they can damage the rotor housings, but they are supposed to last longer and be tougher that oem seals. 3mm vs 2mm is also just more strength as well. It's all about tuning with our cars, detonation= Bridge Port will give you the sound you're looking for. Even a large Street Port sounds really good. Start reading, there's a ton of info out there for you bro.

 

A street port will yield the least amount of wear. Having corner seals slide over a skinny bridge will only wear them quicker. Perphial port yields higher temps I believe and costs too much money. My engine builder says that 3mm will wear the rotor housings quicker than 2mm because its more friction area. Makes sense. Going with a hybrid turbo such as bnr and a powerfc ecu will yield you in your range with least amount of costs.

 

thanks for the info guys, ill keep reading.

trying to learn as much about them as i can because i really want to be dedicated to this swap, no one in my city has a rotary in their 240, all the "unique" swaps are all 1j/v8's and i want to **** on them with a "weedwacker engine" (what the v8 guys call them).

My friend also has a fc shell i wish i could buy but i just bought a silvia front for my s13 and a whole bunch of other parts, but anyways has anyone on this forum ever swapped a 13b into an s-chassis? really looking for some pointers

 

I've heard of guys going the other way around. Putting an SR20 in an FC, but not sure if anyone on here has gone the other way.

 

here's the swap I was talking about

https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-for...a-hate-930126/

 

defined autowork has a rotary swapped silvia

 

i know people have put sr's in fc's so im assuming ti shouldnt be too hard to do it the other way around, problem now is im debating whether or not to sell my 240 shell and pick up my buddies fc shell and just do the swap in that

 

This is a quick first start vid of my large streetport s5 13bt to give u an idea wut a streetport can sound like