Conrad D

I was doing research cuz I like the rotary. I don’t have one n never had n probably never will. But I recently found out that the apex sealed ofc need lubrication but I never knew how exactly as mic common sense as it is I just never found that out. Now that I know that the apex seals are being lubricated with oil from the crank case which rlly shouldn’t be burnt and isn’t made to be, what if u have two oil reservoirs. One, obv the crank case, but re route somehow the apex seal oil jacket thing to be taking from a tank of 2stroke oil which is designed to be burnt as it would suck *** in the crank case. Would that fix the issue?

SleepeR1st

iTrader: (1)

You might be onto something there

GtiKyle

iTrader: (5)

You should work for mazda.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I have terrible news....someone has already beat you to the market with this idea!

Epitroch

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I was going to say that sounds like the Sohn adapter kit. Also, are people experiencing problems due to engine oil not burning clean? The only OMP-related failures I've heard of were excessive wear if the OMP nozzles failed, or apex seals overheating and wearing out if a premix-only car spent a lot of time in 'decel cutoff' where the ECU completely turns off the fuel injectors to conserve fuel. Without the OMP, complete fuel cut means no premix, which apparently is much more harmful than injecting engine oil using a stock OMP setup.

gsmithrx7

I was going do an OMP deletion until I read about the fuel cut-off on deceleration! So now I have a rebuild kit for the OMP Pump, checked the nozzels and lines and will be running with a functioning OMP system.

Also, I have decided to add 2-stroke oil into my gas to insure I will always have apex seal lubrication.

Does anyone have a recommended amount of Pre-mix oil per gallon of gas, with the OMP working at the same time? 1/2 oz., 1 oz.?

Another aspect to consider is ("Fuel Dilution"), on both my engines I was concerned because I was not using oil like I was supposed to be, about a quart every 1000 miles or so.
Maybe I added a quart or two between oil changes. When I asked the service manager at Mazda he said "You got a tight engine." And I left it at that.

So, to further help with the engine lubrication I decided to change the oil and filter twice a year using a conventional 10W-40 oil. I been averaging about 5k miles per year.

I want to know more about fuel dilution, what is it that dilutes the oil, raw gasoline? Blow-by gases condensing in the crankcase? What fluid builds up in the oil?

If it is gasoline vapors condensing and getting into the 400 degree oil, wouldn't it just evaporate quickly away?

Let me know what you think?

Oh, the first stop after the oil filter is the oil pump, from there it goes to two different passages, large passage goes to the oil cooler, a smaller passage goes across the front cover and feed the OMP pump. That means the pump only gets freshly filtered oil! My concerns about the OMP lines getting clogged up over the years is not going to ever happen.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (2)

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