Stold this mod shamelessly from DeSlow. I liked the way his turned out, so I copied it. Probably overkill, but I don't want to worry about it down the line somewhere. This dude should stand up to even the angriest pressure plate. I've read that the pivot ball is the weak link, so I already have one drafted up in solidworks.

Doing this is much easier than it looks. Talked to my boss at the fabrication shop about how to cold bend the rod. Once he showed me how to do it with two cresent wrenches, it was all money. Just takes a little patience.

I started out by bead blasting the fork to ensure it was clean. I used 1/4" 304 ss square stock which fits perfectly in the clutch fork fingers. Then, I layed the rod in the fingers, and just marked the bend locations, one at a time and went down the line. Fitting time was only about 1/2 hr per side. You have to notch the rod to fit around the location of the slave cylinder rod, which I did with a drum roll. I also left some space at the finger end for the weld to wrap around. Finally, just skip weld the rods in place giving the piece lots of time to cool to keep it from warping. Made sure not to weld the outer edges of the fork fingers so the throwout bearing tabs have a nice flat place to sit.

Viola........bomb proof clutch fork.

 

More pics.....

 

Looks nice. Make sure you post up some pictures of your super pivot ball when it's done.

 

4-sho. I'll post the drawing incase anyone else wants to have one machined too.

 

BA......cant wait to see the final pics

 

Waiting on the picture of your small ball

 

Why stainless rod? Aren't you then welding dissimilar metals? What was the weldment made of? Does the fact that it was TIG makes these questions moot?

 

They are both "steels" so they are actually considered similar materials even if one is stainless and one is not. You can use Welding Rod 308 or 309 to weld regular steel to stainless steel with great results.

OP want to confirm?

Chris

 

10-4. 308 or 309 rod and it's good to go.

 

The model of the "super pivot ball". The cross sectional area of the shaft is 56% larger than stock. I'm thinking 4140 steel hardened to RC 58. Haven't had it made yet though.

 

Those, I would think would sell like hot cakes - your *****. The re-enforced clutch fork wouldn't be worth your time to make a tone of mainly becuase of the cheapness of the FC crowd. The ***** however, I would post up and see how many people would be interested. I would put my name down for sure. Economies of scale cold get you yours cheaper and make a few bucks while doing it. Just a thought though.

PS - Excellent welds

 

It's perfectly fine. But if you're very particular you would use 309L. Anyway, I have nothing to do right now so here's my speach.

308L (including ER308LSi) is predominately used on austenitic stainless steels, such as types 301, 302, 304, 305 and cast alloys CF-8 and CF-3. For high temperature applications such as in the electrical power industry, the high carbon 308H electrode provides better creep resistance than does 308L.

316L (including ER316LSi) filler metal should be used with 316L and 316 base metals. CF-8M and CF-3M are the cast equivalents of 316 and 316L, respectively.


Use 309L (including ER309LSi) when joining mild steel or low alloy steel to stainless steels, for joining dissimilar stainless steels such as 409 to itself or to 304L stainless, as well as for joining 309 base metal. CG-12 is the cast equivalent of 309. Some 308L applications may be substituted with 309L filler metal, but 316L or 316 applications generally require molybdenum and 309L contains no molybdenum.

Type 347 stainless steel filler metal is ideal for 347 and 321 base materials because it matches these stabilized grades. CF-8C is the cast equivalent of 347. Type 347 filler metal is also suitable most 308L filler metal applications.

 

I would also be intersted in the asking price of these parts.If you figure it out let me know i may even purchase a pair.Thanks!!

 

The rare thing here is the pivot ball. The clutch fork can be done at any local fabrication shop.

 

im down for cool *****

 

Here's some pictures of my *****. Stock vs. Super Pivot Ball. It goes to heat treat tomorrow.

 

sell me one of them *****

 

I'd be interested in one of those as well!!

 

I'd like to get my hands on your *****.

 

i would also like to have some of those *****

 

so your saying my stock ball could break one day? how

 

From what I have read on this forum, they tend to break at the skinny part of the shaft, directly under the mushroom tip when using a heavy pressure plate. Never had any experience with it myself, but I'd rather not take the chance.

 

Let me see what I can do about getting some more made..........

 

As he said, when you're using a super heavy duty PP (the most usual culprit is ACT's "extreme" version) that pivot is under alot of stress and will have the head pop off occaisionally

Sweet