How TO: Build a Gauge Cup
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From: Saint Louis / Illinois
How TO: Build a Gauge Cup
I just needed to mount one 2 1/16" gauge and I wanted it at eye level near my gauge cluster (AFR Gauge). I found that 2" PVC pipe has an inside diameter extremely close to the o.d. of the gauge. Unfortunately the end cap for 2" PVC pipe is a little big for my taste.
Eventually I settled on using a 1 1/2" PVC coupler (the straight coupler not the pipe) and removed some material from the inside with a 2" hole saw. The hole saw got me the desired I.D. I wanted plus the o.d. of the coupler was the same o.d. of the gauge face, so it's not too bulky. I then glued a 1 1/2" end cap onto the coupler and walla had a gauge cup.
The materials list is as follows:
(1) 1 1/2" PVC straight coupler (I got the longer one, but the shorter one could be used)
(1) 1 1/2" PVC end cap
(1) 2" Conduit Stand off Clamp
Paint
Sandpaper
2" Hole Saw
super glue
Directions;
1. Take the 2" hole saw and open up the i.d. of the straight union (and end cap if so inclined). A drill press or a lathe work fine for this.
2. Clean out the inside of the coupler where the hole saw cut through. It'll be a little rough, so a little cleaning will help the gauge slide in better. Don't take off too much as the gauge won't hold in tight. Also if you want you can leave a small (1/4") lip on the inside edge of the coupler to hold the gauge and then clean out everything behind it with a dremel to allow for the gauge to be easily slid in and out. I didn't do this and although my gauge fits, it fits tight and I don't know if it'll ever come out cause the whole length of the coupler is clamping down on the gauge.
3. Superglue the end cap to the coupler. Make sure the edges line up good otherwise it'll look like crap.
4. Once the glue is dry drill a small (1/4") hole in the back of the end cap near one edge. This will allow the wires to pass through as well as air to escape when you push the gauge in.
5. Sand down any rough edges or protrusions. I shortened up my coupler and cut off all the protrusions so all I had to do was sand off the markings on the back of the end cap.
6. Paint it your favorite color
7. Use the 2" Conduit stand off clamp to mount it. I would've prefered to use this clamp (www.mcmaster.com part number 3033T16), but I had a conduit clamp so I used it. I'll probably eventually change it out and make a small angle bracket with the preferred clamp next time I order from McMaster Carr.
Pictures are as follows and the last one just shows where I mounted it. Next time I'll also probably take a little time in cleaning out the inside and leave a 1/4" lip along the end and relieve the rest of the coupler so I can get the gauge out, but it was a cheap gauge anyways. Also the whole thing cost me less than 5 bucks and 15 minutes worth of time.
Different Version
Credit to Daddy, not me.
Eventually I settled on using a 1 1/2" PVC coupler (the straight coupler not the pipe) and removed some material from the inside with a 2" hole saw. The hole saw got me the desired I.D. I wanted plus the o.d. of the coupler was the same o.d. of the gauge face, so it's not too bulky. I then glued a 1 1/2" end cap onto the coupler and walla had a gauge cup.
The materials list is as follows:
(1) 1 1/2" PVC straight coupler (I got the longer one, but the shorter one could be used)
(1) 1 1/2" PVC end cap
(1) 2" Conduit Stand off Clamp
Paint
Sandpaper
2" Hole Saw
super glue
Directions;
1. Take the 2" hole saw and open up the i.d. of the straight union (and end cap if so inclined). A drill press or a lathe work fine for this.
2. Clean out the inside of the coupler where the hole saw cut through. It'll be a little rough, so a little cleaning will help the gauge slide in better. Don't take off too much as the gauge won't hold in tight. Also if you want you can leave a small (1/4") lip on the inside edge of the coupler to hold the gauge and then clean out everything behind it with a dremel to allow for the gauge to be easily slid in and out. I didn't do this and although my gauge fits, it fits tight and I don't know if it'll ever come out cause the whole length of the coupler is clamping down on the gauge.
3. Superglue the end cap to the coupler. Make sure the edges line up good otherwise it'll look like crap.
4. Once the glue is dry drill a small (1/4") hole in the back of the end cap near one edge. This will allow the wires to pass through as well as air to escape when you push the gauge in.
5. Sand down any rough edges or protrusions. I shortened up my coupler and cut off all the protrusions so all I had to do was sand off the markings on the back of the end cap.
6. Paint it your favorite color
7. Use the 2" Conduit stand off clamp to mount it. I would've prefered to use this clamp (www.mcmaster.com part number 3033T16), but I had a conduit clamp so I used it. I'll probably eventually change it out and make a small angle bracket with the preferred clamp next time I order from McMaster Carr.
Pictures are as follows and the last one just shows where I mounted it. Next time I'll also probably take a little time in cleaning out the inside and leave a 1/4" lip along the end and relieve the rest of the coupler so I can get the gauge out, but it was a cheap gauge anyways. Also the whole thing cost me less than 5 bucks and 15 minutes worth of time.
Different Version
Credit to Daddy, not me.
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