FC lower arm bar
#1
FC lower arm bar
Inspired by this thread and the evidence in hand in that thread I decided to build a lower arm bar. Dr. Overkill performed the procedure
Started out with two hiem joints, 8" of opposite threaded tube, two spare brackets, 3"x12" 1/8" steel, and some very hard to find 1x2 anodized aluminum tubing.
First I layed the brakets flat against some cardboard. I find beer boxes to be fantstic. Tracing the curve of the bracket down to the bottom. Cut that curve out and tape it to the bracket itself. Now, with the bracket level, place a level ontop of the bracket and trace a line against the cardboard. Put the hiem joint ontop of the carboard and make a judgement call as to where it should be. Don't forget about the 14 mm bolthead underneath. Transfer that cut out to steel and cut it out. I would repeat that process or at the very least, test it on ALL the brackets. Next clean everything up.
Started out with two hiem joints, 8" of opposite threaded tube, two spare brackets, 3"x12" 1/8" steel, and some very hard to find 1x2 anodized aluminum tubing.
First I layed the brakets flat against some cardboard. I find beer boxes to be fantstic. Tracing the curve of the bracket down to the bottom. Cut that curve out and tape it to the bracket itself. Now, with the bracket level, place a level ontop of the bracket and trace a line against the cardboard. Put the hiem joint ontop of the carboard and make a judgement call as to where it should be. Don't forget about the 14 mm bolthead underneath. Transfer that cut out to steel and cut it out. I would repeat that process or at the very least, test it on ALL the brackets. Next clean everything up.
Last edited by TitaniumTT; 08-03-08 at 10:06 PM.
#2
With the bracket bolted to your workbench bust out the magnetic level and stick the new pieces on the bottom of the level and line them up with the bracket. It's important to always have a true and level workbench. It makes things SOOOOO much easier. Put a few tacks on but only a few, we need to make sure its properly aligned.
After you are certain that it is true, a few tacks on the back and run a bead.
Becuase I thought it would be good on the back as well. Not really needed but I did it anyway. Cleaned up the beads on the front as well. Don't know why, they were purty.
Drill a 3/4" hole and viola. What I generally do when I need to get throught two pieces of metal like that is drill a pilot hole, 1/8" or so through both and check for square and true, then go for the big 3/4" hole. Easy to adjust an 1/8", difficult to adjust a 3/4"
After you are certain that it is true, a few tacks on the back and run a bead.
Becuase I thought it would be good on the back as well. Not really needed but I did it anyway. Cleaned up the beads on the front as well. Don't know why, they were purty.
Drill a 3/4" hole and viola. What I generally do when I need to get throught two pieces of metal like that is drill a pilot hole, 1/8" or so through both and check for square and true, then go for the big 3/4" hole. Easy to adjust an 1/8", difficult to adjust a 3/4"
#3
Starting with the 1x2x1/8" 6061 tubing and the opposite thread section of pipe. In reality all I really needed to do was order a length of threaded pipe the correct length (about 21") and been done with it. But then it wouldn't be original. Plus I'm building a front & rear strut bar out of the same material so now it all matches
A few measurements later and out came the jig saw. You'll see why in a minute.
I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited.
A few measurements later and out came the jig saw. You'll see why in a minute.
I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited.
#4
Everything aligned and clamped down on the bench. Again, sooooo nice to have a good bench. Level, true and you can weld right on it.
One great bead, one shitty bead.
After a lil more welding and some grinding - DONE! Time to instal.
One great bead, one shitty bead.
After a lil more welding and some grinding - DONE! Time to instal.
#5
Installed on the car. So nice and easy to get on. Swap the brakets and instal one hiem joint to the bracket snugly. Put the other in the rough spot where it needs to be and rotate the entire brace until it falls into line. Tighten both bolts down and give the bar a turn or too more to load it up and jam down the lock nuts. Pre-load is a good thing sometimes.
Next is a rear strut tower bar and surge tank
Next is a rear strut tower bar and surge tank