Timing comments from tuners and members
#1
Timing comments from tuners and members
Steve Kahn
It depends on your application and at what boost level. in normal curising, you should run in the 30+ range.
at 10psi, you can safely run 20-22
at 15psi+, I run 14-15
Rice Racing
STOCK PORT) 20-23 deg advance ...lowest effective "dynamic" compression at max power.
(STREET PORT) 15-17 deg advance...midrange effective "dynamic" compression at max power.
Dragon :
actually it's much more andvance on the vaccume and lower boost areas and works its way down as the boost comes up, I also run almost no split in the no boost areas and increase the split as it comes in to the peak tork and boost areas then I reduce the split to about 5' under peak boost after it comes out of peak tork...
Boostn7:
Since every engine is different, Pluto's numbers are good ones to start with... even dropping as low as 12 degrees at 25+ psi. Any lower you run into high EGT's.
I know many run 15 degrees from 15psi and up, but I feel that the engine will need different timing at different boost levels and on the dyno is the only place to learn where your engine is happy.
Then again, anyone running close to 20 psi or higher should be using race gas to keep things together.
IGY:
Bridge port, 19psi, 19 degrees, no split. This motor ran for over a year and then was taken apart for refresh. This was done with SDS and an Electomotive hpv-1.
I personally like around 16 degrees at 15psi tapering up to 18 degrees after peak torque. This on a power fc with 4 degrees of split.
BoosTn7:
As far as the split I tried going from 15 to 12 degress and lost horsepower, it did gain hp at lower boost levels but 15 and up it lost power. So I locked it at 15 degrees all around (Wof3D).
I agree with Judge Ito....
On my FD I run the PoweFC where driving/cruising under "0"psi I run leading and trailing together.......motor is very responsive. When it starts boosting I add split and it will go up to 12** degree split to max boost (17-17.5psi)
Now, making more power with 0 split in NA applications has been proven......
The problem is under boost !
I know of many guys which are making over 500rwh and saw no gains when reducing split to 0 other then higher EGTs....on the dyno... and then there's a few others which reduced split from 12 degrees to 8 degrees and picked 2-3% gain.
I recently tried lowering the split to 10 degrees and my engine knock went up under boost.....so I went back to my old settings 'til I hit a dyno
DRAGON:
definitly better response with the no split, it also help with getting the boost up quicker... Ie. give it gas and the wastgate is open in no time
***********PFC timing issue:******
The problem is with the ECU itself....not the datalogit.
and its always consistent ....1 degree increase @ exactly 4000rpm and again one more degree @ 5000rpm....no matter what load.
Split is always maintained.
So by 5000rpm- higher you're exactly 2 degrees higher then actual numbers on the your 20x20 map.
Tested 5 PowerFCs and another one today and same exact results....
I also did some quick changes on Tab #4 settings and results were the same.
It depends on your application and at what boost level. in normal curising, you should run in the 30+ range.
at 10psi, you can safely run 20-22
at 15psi+, I run 14-15
Rice Racing
STOCK PORT) 20-23 deg advance ...lowest effective "dynamic" compression at max power.
(STREET PORT) 15-17 deg advance...midrange effective "dynamic" compression at max power.
Dragon :
actually it's much more andvance on the vaccume and lower boost areas and works its way down as the boost comes up, I also run almost no split in the no boost areas and increase the split as it comes in to the peak tork and boost areas then I reduce the split to about 5' under peak boost after it comes out of peak tork...
Boostn7:
Since every engine is different, Pluto's numbers are good ones to start with... even dropping as low as 12 degrees at 25+ psi. Any lower you run into high EGT's.
I know many run 15 degrees from 15psi and up, but I feel that the engine will need different timing at different boost levels and on the dyno is the only place to learn where your engine is happy.
Then again, anyone running close to 20 psi or higher should be using race gas to keep things together.
IGY:
Bridge port, 19psi, 19 degrees, no split. This motor ran for over a year and then was taken apart for refresh. This was done with SDS and an Electomotive hpv-1.
I personally like around 16 degrees at 15psi tapering up to 18 degrees after peak torque. This on a power fc with 4 degrees of split.
BoosTn7:
As far as the split I tried going from 15 to 12 degress and lost horsepower, it did gain hp at lower boost levels but 15 and up it lost power. So I locked it at 15 degrees all around (Wof3D).
I agree with Judge Ito....
On my FD I run the PoweFC where driving/cruising under "0"psi I run leading and trailing together.......motor is very responsive. When it starts boosting I add split and it will go up to 12** degree split to max boost (17-17.5psi)
Now, making more power with 0 split in NA applications has been proven......
The problem is under boost !
I know of many guys which are making over 500rwh and saw no gains when reducing split to 0 other then higher EGTs....on the dyno... and then there's a few others which reduced split from 12 degrees to 8 degrees and picked 2-3% gain.
I recently tried lowering the split to 10 degrees and my engine knock went up under boost.....so I went back to my old settings 'til I hit a dyno
DRAGON:
definitly better response with the no split, it also help with getting the boost up quicker... Ie. give it gas and the wastgate is open in no time
***********PFC timing issue:******
The problem is with the ECU itself....not the datalogit.
and its always consistent ....1 degree increase @ exactly 4000rpm and again one more degree @ 5000rpm....no matter what load.
Split is always maintained.
So by 5000rpm- higher you're exactly 2 degrees higher then actual numbers on the your 20x20 map.
Tested 5 PowerFCs and another one today and same exact results....
I also did some quick changes on Tab #4 settings and results were the same.
#3
Yes, thank you very much for assembling these posts.
Perhaps you should also put up a disclaimer of some sort, as different situations call for a different tune... and also since some of these comments come from different posts asking different questions. Just in-case anyone comes in here to just read these comments and make their own changes without knowing what they're doing.
Perhaps you should also put up a disclaimer of some sort, as different situations call for a different tune... and also since some of these comments come from different posts asking different questions. Just in-case anyone comes in here to just read these comments and make their own changes without knowing what they're doing.
#4
oK ...this thread is comment on what each of these people have posted publicly regarding THEIR own timing specific to THEIR setup. Pluto recommends areas of tuning that work based on his tuning. However each person should note that while adjusting timing if they are inexperienced they could cause engine damage and failure. if you have question regarding timing it is best to ask a tuner for a direct answer.
************WARNING ******** These people and myself are not responsible for your actions in regards to the information posted in this thread ****WARNING ********
************WARNING ******** These people and myself are not responsible for your actions in regards to the information posted in this thread ****WARNING ********
Last edited by APEXL8T; 01-31-05 at 08:35 AM.
#5
I have my idle area set at 4 degrees split. Cruising, while under boost is set to zero split, as of an hour ago. Knock went down a good bit and it seems like my knock always jumps up when I let off the throttle. Other than that, she's running pretty well.
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