Well in my face haha. my buddy just told me he got it from carbonetic so i just assumed that it was made by them.

 

do u think its possible, if the open diff fits ina t2 pumpkin with all the t2 stub shafts and drive shaft pinnion? I just go my open diff welded, but dunno if Ishould put it back in the s4 pumpkin and modify the t2 driveshaft to fit or should I try what you said swap the open diff welded into a t2 setup pumpkin.

 

I rocked an welded diff on my last 240 i owned.. i had a 2way and sold it being in need of cash @ the moment..


my opinion.. for drfiting.... its the best in my experience, it was sooo predictable. In return my skill level jumped and was just confident..


Now thats drifting and drifting only..

streets it sucked, i needed subframe spacers and on rainy days FORGET IT!..

as far as grip i dont know.. i hear some people using a locked diff on track days..

and touge i was either too smart or ***** to try it (take your pic) due to it being locked one of your tires, or both brake traction for a sligh second and being in the mountains the road is slipery some how. weather it be frost, broken rocky pavement, or dirty and little rocks on it from all that dirt ...

this is california.. its like a big dessert.. not japan some island that is seriously moist and their mountains are full of green , and if not mistaken their dirt isnt as loose in their canyons

 

V lsd is hardley an lsd... but it does the job..

 

A S4 Clutch type with New clutches is the best for drifting, it creates lock at low torque.

 

Its pretty much the norm over here in the UK to either have a 2way (or sometimes a 1.5way) or a if you are broke a welded diff. Very few people who drift regularly bother to use a stock vlsd (they are almost always old and act pretty much like an open diff), and an open diff is pretty much useless. Most people have drove them at the beginning if only for the lessons they teach you as you move over to lockind diffs.

I had a welded diff on my s13 for about 4mths or so until the car fell to bits It was a million times better than the vlsd I had on the bmw before that. I've now got a 2 way locking diff on the skyline and its a million times better than the welder! I'd never have anything other that a 2way now unless I was broke.

The 2way locks on acceleration and deceleration. The most obvious improvement is when coming out of a big fast corner into a small tight corner. With the 2way I can just dab the foot brake and the back end will stay locked and come round tighter under control. With the welded diff I'd have to be pulling the wand (handbrake) on and off as well to control the angle of the car as I came into the tight corner. With an open diff or lsd it would be a right mission to control and needed four feet and eight hands to keep the car going in the right direction.

On the other hand all this rubbish about a welder making you understeer etc etc is purely rubbish. Its down to the setup of the car, not the welded diff. If you are only doing a few drift days then a welder is probably a bit extreme but if it is a drift car and you can't afford a 2way then go for it. Just make sure you pick a very good welder to really do it properly. My welds came apart on a roundabout and the car span. Because the welds jammed the diff I couldn't even roll the car off the roundabout and was holding all the traffic up! I had to get a big lorry to tow the car off with the wheels jammed!! The possible accident really put me off them, not funny and 2way is always top of the list from now on.

 

hahah wtf i got owned ?? or did i?

 

Explain then how two rear wheels moving at the same speed in a corner won't make you understeer at the limit?

 

Two wheels spinning at the same speed will make it push for a second or two. Normally when you roll back in the gas after braking. You have to adjust your driving by setting the car harder in the corner and getting on the gas more which will force oversteer.

A welded diff is probably not best for road racing but is fine for drifting.

 

Its simply wasn't a problem because of the way the car was setup. Perhaps worth mentioning that this also was in an s13 that (theoretically) understeers as standard anyway, so its something that you learn to deal with pretty quickly when setting the car up. The dampeners were set to almost their softest at the front and nearly there hardest at the rear, which was also slightly higher than the front to load the front wheels a bit more on braking. The car was setup to get rid of any understeer so even with a welder it just never happened. Also I nearly always ran drift pressures in the tyres even just driving around daily because I was used to the setup, 30psi in the front and 40psi in the rear. Again this induced more oversteer.
All the talk of it making driving at the limit dangerous etc,etc is silly. Its easy enough drive to the safe limits of the car and the enviroment regardless of how its setup. Having a drift setup may change where the limits of 'grip' driving are but there's no way you are reaching them on the road anyway. If you are then you're either in a place where it doesn't matter and you can just drift, or you are driving dangerously!