V-Mount Thread
#29
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html
Trigger the pump with a hobbs switch or something.
#32
whats wrong with solid mount?
mine's bolted, with insulating foam stripping on the support bar. it's definitely not moving at all.
if you're referring to permanently mounting it to the chassis, then yea eff that.
mine's bolted, with insulating foam stripping on the support bar. it's definitely not moving at all.
if you're referring to permanently mounting it to the chassis, then yea eff that.
#34
Sunburn, your probably right should be mounted on rubber or something. But it was mounted solid all of last season with no issues. but if it cracks and starts to leak ill send you a check for your .02. lucky for me nopistons i built it my self so i
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design.
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design.
#35
Sunburn, your probably right should be mounted on rubber or something. But it was mounted solid all of last season with no issues. but if it cracks and starts to leak ill send you a check for your .02. lucky for me nopistons i built it my self so i
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design.
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design.
#37
#38
my setup is sick. super pumped with how it turned out. i used a smaller width core, and tied it in to the chassis with thin gauge aluminum to act as ducting solely instead of making some cage deal to hold it in place to the chassis.
in all honesty though if he had a front support bar like mine tied into the frame rails, with the engine bay being stitched theres only about a foot of frame rail to flex between the subframe, and that support bar. all of which is before the suspension so it's not moving at all... unless it piles and smashes everything... at that point, well we all know **** would need replaced.
even Ryan's setup has a piece of DOM securing the frame rails. if you've ever cut up an FC you'll know how thick the front frame rails are. it's nothing like a swiss cheese 240.
#40
yo hook it up with the thread style for the -10's going into the front cover, and rear iron. i tried taking banjo bolts in to compare thread sizing but nothing seems to match up. really not trying to rethread anything..
#43
-8 AN To 18mm-1.5 adapter 9919EFKERL
-8 AN To 16mm-1.5 adapter 9919EFJERL
#44
Sunburn, your probably right should be mounted on rubber or something. But it was mounted solid all of last season with no issues. but if it cracks and starts to leak ill send you a check for your .02. lucky for me nopistons i built it my self so i
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design.
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design.
it's not a bad design. I'd just be afraid of cracking/breaking something with it mounted in such a stiff manner. You dont want your rad to move but you dont want it to function as a support structure either. Kinda looks like what it's doing unless you have a strut tower bar or something. Our chassis flex ALOT. (maybe more lengthwise than side to side though) I can't see the whole car, just your radiator. Wasn't trying to make you cry or anything....
#49
Your car is coming along for sure! ^
my car fell off the jack trying to load it onto the trailer. so i'm in the middle of redoing my radiator core. the core always sucked, so it's not a big deal justt annoying. photos will come soon. thankfully it didnt kill my $400 fan.
im running a 30 row oil cooler on the front left. (going to dual setup soon just -an's are crazy to go dual initially)
my car fell off the jack trying to load it onto the trailer. so i'm in the middle of redoing my radiator core. the core always sucked, so it's not a big deal justt annoying. photos will come soon. thankfully it didnt kill my $400 fan.
im running a 30 row oil cooler on the front left. (going to dual setup soon just -an's are crazy to go dual initially)