lol

camber can be adjusted by grinding out the top notch of the coilover where it mounts on to the spindle.. So if you extend the spindle out, the camber can still be adjusted with the camber plate and camber bolt area where it bolts to the spindle if u just grind it..

so what you are saying is that you hacked parts up not knowing how suspension geometry works? or did you figure out it gave more angle before modifying anything?

Even if he did just hack them up, it's not like it's gold or anything. $50 lower ball joints. No big deal.

Dont see why everyone has to get on everyone shit all the time no matter what the fuck it is......

I'm guessing the former because all the weight of the car is placed on the spacer when that could have been avoided.

I thought of this shit 2 years ago. Who did you knock this shit off, your name isn't China for a reason.

does anybody have cliff notes for the past 10 pages or so

this got so off topic, can we just see some cars with "moar angle"?

check this out...

http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagam...een/green2.jpg

no lower arm modification... all the angle you could ever use...

all hail JTP:icon_tup:

you are very F&*!##@#ken close to that wall you know that??????? Might as well put a sheet metal plate on the rear bumper and spark the wall on purpose! Too Buck wild

skinny wheels? 9.5's on the front bud. good luck with your 11's..

this is a proven setup... not just talk and speculation. you'd be better off getting your car done and actually testing your pieces out.

anyone can make something up and say it works.... but wouldn't you rather know that it actually works.

i have 18x9.5s -22offset up front as well..and I dont think its skinny at all.. it still doesnt clear the lca at lock.. what offset are u running justin?
Attachment 705197

I'm doing the same as dkwasherexd, cept about an inch taken out and with a tig instead (no idea if the penetration is any better?). My ball jointer splitter broke as i was about to do the other side, so can't do much more for now. Will post pics of the spindles once they're tidied up.

Attachment 705198
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Attachment 705200

That's the car sitting on the ground. Stock steering rack and ends. Getting close to hitting everything, sway bar link, lower and upper arms, firewall etc. Should probably do, not gonna get much more lock without major suspension and body work.

oooh! cosmo nice.

wow major props for building/ drifting a jc cosmo... it looks stunning... i love it so much

take your front spacers off

looks like doodoo

new desktop.

Function.

Function.

Function.

Car was built on the cheap and throws down HARD.

JTP, that's just insane how close to the wall you are. I'm saving that pic in the "art" section on my photobucket n myspace.


Back on topic. I contacted max garage. Looks like that's what i'm going with. There's aot of weld points on their setup and they will pre-grind them for me as well. Plus, 2 locations and more bump steer correction. I asked dan if stickers are included. :) Not bad for $250 shipped upon signing a no-fault waiver. I'll weld them on myself.



*illdrift* ever get that rack problem sorted?

whose max garage? not even eisuke the owner would call it that

JTP knuckles are where it's at. that dude is way too cool.

Thanks

No Pistons! - Nah i didn't. Seemed to go past some sort of seal (o-ring?) at about 4mm on the left side of the car and couldn't really do much about it. Didn't try out the right side. So have gone with this mod using the stock rack ends. May add 2 or 3 mm worth of rack spacers in the future if i get more clearance with certain spacer/wheel combo's.

I'm still learning to weld so my welds aren't very good, but we'll see how they hold up. Moved the connecting point in 30mm, from a minimum distance (ie not centre) of 115mm down to 85mm. Kept stock ackerman.

Attachment 705201
Attachment 705202
Attachment 705203
Attachment 705204

PBM knuckles DO NOT "correct" bumpsteer. In fact I have no idea what they are doing.

The reason is that they only address 1 of the 2 places they need to fix. Basically they are trying to get the tie rod angle lower in its range of motion over the suspension travel. What they are forgetting is that the tie rod AND lower control arm must maintain the same angle to avoid adding bumpsteer. They do nothing to space that LCA down the same amount as the tie rod, thus introducing a shit load of weird ass suspension issues.

Here is a Whiteline kit for a WRX.
http://www.fredbeansparts.com/catalog/wl_wrxrock.jpg
As you can see it has tie rod ends that space them down from the knuckle. It ALSO has LCA balljoints that space the LCA down the same amount. That is the "correct" way to add a bumpsteer fix. (this is assuming the LCA balljoint pivot is lowered since I cannot see under that boot).

ooo sit /\/\

I have mine right next to me hee ready to go on this weekend.

Direct from JTP to the United kingdom. they look bad ass.


top top t bloke too. :icon_tup:

so I made another set.. This one is going to be a gift for John Chow..
Attachment 705205
Im going to make more, and sell them.. This will be a good way to help pay off my IRS audit..
Well dunno how many people will actually buy them though, as everyone is broke..
Attachment 705206
My LCA...poor thing is getting chopped up..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/SP_A0322.jpg

Cool, myfriend was telling me that too.. It only rubs there when I hit lock which is rare.. The only time I hit lock was at El Toro when I threw the car in reverse angle lol and thats when I fucked up my lca...
yeah il probably cut that section out and reincforce it with a plate welded on somehow...

just out of curiousity, putting lots of space between the hub and center line of the wheel cause a larger turn variable,like the distance the wheel turns in conjunction with number of turns of the steering wheel be greater causing a "lag" in a sense?and the turn axis gets bigger...what the hell am i smoking?!?!?!?

Well i guess some of us need to hit up pbm and see if we can create a demand for such a kit on an fc if one doesn't already exist.

I figured the tie rod end being at such an extreme angle would be the main culprit.

Hence spacing the tie rod to get rid of all that nasty angle on the joint.

illdrift, have you considered swapping in a rack from a different car? Is it possible.

Keep in mind i know jack shit about your car if you're in a bad mood and feel the need to vent on me along with an answer. lol.

A good fabricator should know to clock the tie rod joint when modifying knuckles.

Do you guys that modify them do anything about the ackerman angle? I know its not a big deal on mazdas compared to BMW etc but still.. the less the better

Not so much the tie rod joint as it is the lower control arm/lower ball joint according to the guy i was quoting.

I'm too tired to click the back button and find out who.

The bracket is part of the ball joint, dumb ass.

It does look like the ball joint will press right out of the bracket........

Again, you have me kicking myself for throwing a "worn out" set in the trash instead of holding onto them like a packrat.

Yea have considered it, just seems like a hell of a lot more work so it's not the first thing i'd try when trying for more lock :P But may end up trying it on my spare shell later on.

What have you done on your car for more lock?

Just the basic angle kit + some washers to get more adjustment out of the ends without stripping them.

Going with pbm or dk's knuckles along with a power steering cooler (snagging an oem oil cooler from the junkyard for cheap cheap) whenever i get some money and then i should be done in that department until something else comes out i want that will overall improve the driving experience.

I haven't even hit full lock with my angle kit yet. There really isn't a place close enough to my house (no tags on the car right now....) for me to even risk attempting that. *sigh* maybe next year. I want to have my shit all sorted out so i can register for mb drift next year and see if i can use all that angle with n/a powah. AE86 guys do it all the time, just gotta go in fast, steep and deep and PRAY to fucking god you dont understeer.

I am now running:

- the mazatrix steering angle kit
- Uras track rods
- JTPDrift.com knuckles..


needless to say i am litterally hitting everytwhere. :( LCA is the main problem.. as well as the inner arch both at the front and the rear..

what solutions have people come up with to sort the rubbing.. are there aftermarket LCA's? maybe common mods done to the standard ones?

Im running a 17x9j ET17 with10mm spacer. = et7 im about to add a further 25mm and hoping that will help alot.. but fear its gonna mean tubbing the arches and cutting of bodywork.


solutions with pics would be awesome. :)

thx

these don't look even at all.. not even the angle on the outer tie rod pick up point is the same??

told fool to make a jig......

They come out PERFECTO every time if you use a jig.

50mm spacer in the front.. thats what I have. looks gay as hell but works lol

should have mentioned sorry that i had the intention of putting on spacers.


I in fact did it today. I had complications withmy extended studs, but nothing some cutting couldn't sort and now i have 35mm spacers ona et17 wheel meaning ET-18 overall.

Now it seems I STILL hit the inner arches, so will have to bash the crap outa the bits i can, but there are somebits that i think are just 'unbashable'

Some pics from today:
The spacers:
Attachment 705207

The lock (bare in mind it still fouls in places.. so could be more or could be at max and just scraping.. I dont know yet)
Attachment 705208

These are shots of the rubbing BEFORE spacers.. Im yet to see where it rubs now with spacers.
Attachment 705209
Attachment 705210

Ive cut away bits i can.. bashed bits i can.. and now i think its going to be down to tyres.


I'm thinking about reducing the 9J ET17 to a 8J ET22 (its the lowest ET available at 8j from my sponsor) to see if that helps, and pair it with a better profile tyre. I currently Run 235/40/17 R888's up front....

thinking of a 215/40 or a 225/40 if I can.. just dont know what make..


Input appreciated. :icon_tup::icon_tup:

looks like the green matched up pretty nicely.. haha

what's going on in the engine bay?? REW!

what i ment by this was to put in to perspective the black wheel reps stock, and pink
reps more angle and spacers.the pink one travels in a bigger radious.big circle. and stock is much smaller the pink. i think it would make more sence to extend the pivot point farther out to allow more angle.longate the whole assembly,arms,etc. and put the shock tower farther out. in doing so would allow no more rubbing and acheive a turn circle close 80' just throwing that one out and hope some one might understand.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/steering.jpg

Theres a big ass build thread on DW Justin.. But i managed to get a rotary specialist on board and am now running a custom bridgeported setup. Link below to last page, but you'll have to go back 3/4 pages for hte engine build.

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...-green-29.html

:drool1:


FC rotors & housing etc.. uprated tips.. agressive bridge porting.
FD Loom/power FC & Commander.
FD ingnitors/leads/ignition wiring.
FD inlet plenum.
T04R turbo.
HKS external gate a screamer pipe.

and more.:icon_tup::ylsuper:

Just need this damn clearance issue sorted, then some alignment arms (IMPOSSIBLE to find in the uk. :(:( ) then its onto the interior cleanup.

This was something i looked at too. By adding my 35mm of spacers to gain my -18ET i was now hitting parts in a 'wider arc' for example the end of my side skirts, corners of front fenders etc..

ideally if you could exend the lower arms.. or coilover mounting point you would gain clearance while retaining to smaller turning arc.

Alternatively keeping the coils/arms in the same place and moving the arches would make more sense... keeping the original geometry. This can be done at the front with Tubbing no worries.., but the rear of the wheel... IE chassis rail territory.. cannot be removed so easy. :(

Theats why, for now I have gone the spacer route.

What offset would I need to run with an 17x8 wheel in the front with SuperNow tie rod ends and Uras Rods, so that I wouldn't rub?

And what about a 17x9 wheel?

omg.- i wish you the best of luck with those ball joints.

Has anyone got any photos of lower arm mods????????

does anyone know of lower arm replacements?? I think after I tub the arches, the next thing is modified lower arms.

edit - nm :P but here's some nice tubbing pics anyway

Attachment 705213
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stop working on stupid shit and get your car running right for this sunday!

coolio on the angle btw. you need tires

am I seeing right from that pic that you have moved out the mounting point on the LCA..

Doesn't that give you super crazy camber?? by pushing out the bottom of the wheel?

make me some of those china

oooo interesting
gonna go take apart my suspension now :p