My FC has been running like **** since i installed the Haltech e6k. i thought it was the tune but it turned out to be the rear rotor has zero compression.

i can rebuild the S4 motor that is currently in my car, bridge port, new turbo etc. but that takes time, and i havent driven my car on the track since september of '09.

-or-

ceasar will give me a complete S5 motor tomorrow, throw it in on wednesday (considering i dont paint the engine bay again) and be good to go for the rest of the tune.

Now the motor from ceasar runs, and he is crediting me for one rebuild without cost of material. so i can get it ported, extra pins, etc. later on for free of charge, just pay for material.



should i start the rebuild now, using the S4 or buy the S5 for $800 that will cost less to rebuild when the time comes???
The car is my DD but i dont have a license, so i can have it sit for a while if i start the rebuild now.

 

s5 stuff is hard to come by..on the other hand the s4 stuff is everywhere..now, if you really want to get back on the track asap..go with the s5..and build the s4 all out meanwhile. this way when you run the s5 into the ground you can just slap the s4 in and have practically no downtime. then you can do whatever you want with the s5..at least that's what i would do.

:AA:

 

the things i need are the clutch, greddy intake fot TB, and block off plates cuz i think the S4 are different.

dont need any S5 sensors really cuz the haltech. and the RB down pipe should fit, might just need some fab.


the worse part is i wont have the green and purps in the engine bay...

 

so new price $750. everything but clutch

 

i picked up the S5 today. intake and exhaust ports are cleanest ive ever seen! it has a '85 front cover so i gotta swap my S4 front cover on. and oil pan

the lower mani is S5 and so is the upper. no more green manis put my modded S4 throttle body on as well. fuel rails are S4 and so is clutch

everythings going as planned. it should be off the stands tomorrow, running

 

S5 has better internals. Depending on the year, the rear iron may have extra casting around the oil pedastal which makes it stronger when you get high power.

The manifolds are suppose to be a better design over S4.

I wouldn't recommend a bridge unless you want to reduce the life of the motor. A large street would be fine.

 

yea bridge port wouldnt last as long. a street port and 30 psi would make the same power, and last longer.

so i got the oil pan, front cover, water pump and water housing on. just waiting for the permatex to dry. then tighten the bolts and drop it in. im swapping in the welded T2 diff Forrest did for me in the meantime.

i might get it in tonight, if not then Friday.


oh and i have a Cosmo engine as well All polished up and everything.

ceasar is doing a payment plan lol every pay check ill drop off like $1000 or less and get it done in 2 months, streetport, pinned, all the **** a drag motor will have. itll take another 2 months to get to get the turbo/wastegate/injectors, manifold will be sick as ****. im gonna try to get the turbo way up in front, and have just a coupler going to the Vmount.

 

sounds sick

 

The motor is in. Most of the green is gone but some remains. ill have some pics soon.

If everything goes well in the next week, then i should be at Trial By Fire's Annual Night Drift Event. cant wait.

 

You had better post pics of this awesome!

The flow of traffic in this forum needs to pick up with cool ****...well, MORE cool **** posted More frequently.

 

yea the fc is running again. its been soooo long since i had a legit running fc. the S5 feels really strong, and it revs so fast. it actually builds up boost in neutral when i rev it. sick *** tune

dont know why but the front cover i put on is leaking some oil... so the motor is coming out one more time.

 

theres a bearing that falls when you remove the main pulley. best bet on not ******* up this engine is to take engine out and remove clutch, then set the motor on the flywheel so that the bearing dosent move when pulley is removed.

im in no rush and i wanna make sure this is done right

 

Yeah, but pulling the engine (if it doesn't bother the person who is doing the work) makes it alot easier to work on ****. Plus he might catch other stuff he might have missed.

It's a few plugs, some coolant lines and like 8 bolts for the trans, 2 for the mounts and it's out.

 

i can pull the engine and have a new gasket on it tomorrow. no big deal...

 

i just undo the front mount bolts and jack the engine up easey.
you can use the tranny to hold the shaft still and crack the front bolt

 

yea i used super black permatex the first time and the gasket...

but yea got that **** done and flossed it today down central. people were breaking their necks looking at the whip.

i hadnt been able to drive the fc because of all the **** wrong. now time to do the alignment and ****