Well of course, all that matters is a useable curve, you can compensate with various tyres.

Hell, if I can take the same line as guys with power in a 80 hp open diff miata, anything is possible with the eight set up

 

The Rtek 2.1 is a nice piece at a good price. My friend has it on his TII and he makes 260 or so at the wheels and has been DDing it off and on for about 5 or 6 years now with no problems.

Yes, I know a real standalone is the way to go but if you need a stepping stone the Rtek is perfect. I very much disagree with most of the posts on here saying save your money and buy a Power FC or Haltech. Yes they are better but you need to cover your *** now rather then risking it by saving for a few months while your still DDing the car. If it were a project that's a whole different story.

 

I'm going to say that it's your fault and not the Rtek.

I've been running a Rtek 1.7 for about 4-5 years now and have never had an issue with the ecu. It's worked on two motors flawlessly. All issues I had during this time were mechanical or wiring harness related.

Current motor is Rtek 1.7 (550primary/720 secondary), S5 turbo @ 10psi, rewired engine harness, walbro, aeromotive fpr. I use to run it at 14psi but I kept annihilating stock turbos.

I've driven this setup to Sevenstock multiple times and I drive to and from all drift events.

The Rtek is limited but if you only want close to stock power/mods, then it's perfect.

 

Thanks guys, I'm waiting for the bill portion ofthis month to be over so I can start buying more ****.

I have no ******* tailights again, I keep blowing switches I don't know what the **** the problem is, but it's really ******* annoying.

 

what i'm saying is why would you buy an Rtek 1.7 when the factory N332 ecu can control 550/720 injectors? for the added internal FCD? for the timing check above 10psi?
it's a waste of money.
my stock ECU got me to pro-am nationals just fine. i don't see why someone would waste money buying an ECU for no reason. the stock one is plenty capable. you'd be further ahead to atleast get the tunable version, but even then i still dont see why... it's a baby step in the right direction for almost as much money as a haltech.

 

The stock ecu CAN'T handle 720 secondaries.

The TP values are mapped with the intention of 550cc injectors.

The 720's are close enough to 550's so that the car will "run" but it's not running right. The gas mileage will go down and you'll get crazy backfiring from the excess fuel being dumped.

The 1.7 is great because it has no boost limit, timing retard, correct mapping of 720's, and retuned 3500rpm hesitation removal. ALL while retaining stock drive-ability and gas mileage.

This is all for low level mods and close to stock.

Once you go big turbo, injectors, street port. You should go Haltech/Motec. The cost is huge though since you need to product,sensors, and then tuning time(which is the leading cause of blown motors).

 

I'd definately be getting the tune-able version, witch is the 2.1. There are a bunch of guys on here that are chilling in the 300hp range with one. I will eventually go haltech. I just want to be in more control right now and make enough power to shut down all these ******* around campus in their daddy bought mustangs.

After I make a little more power I'll focus on suspension and **** some more. I just come from a mustang/trans am past so a little straight line **** still gets my dick hard..

 

Dude I had the rtek 1.7 and 2.0

I gave them away. I wouldve given u one

 

I never had any issues at all with mine. It's a dedicated race car, and a rotary powered RX7... Didnt think gas mileage, and backfiring would be an issue to the owners of these cars. lol
Safc, and Fuel Cut Defender could still be the best route. I dislike the fact that Rtek has the map set for timing adjustments. I've never really messed with a newer version Rtek, but with my experiences with the one i had, i dislike them, and i'm only trying to give real world advice from my setup.

if it were me, i wouldn't pay money for an ecu that i would only replace later.

i would use the one that works, save up, and get the best when need be. just my opinion. everyone's different

 

Anyone that uses a FCD on an Rx7 is retarded.

FCD's fool the ecu into thinking it's at a lesser psi so they won't hit the limiter.
This makes the ecu reference the completely wrong values for a properly running engine.
You get the wrong fuel and the wrong timing.

Stupidest thing ever to do with a rotary which is known to be finicky with tuning.

Being a track car isn't an excuse for not doing the right thing. If anything tracks cars should be so point on that they are more reliable than daily drivers.

 

It does nothing with your fuel map, it just lies to the fuel cut function itself.

 

Lol no offense, but the damn question I have still isn't even answered. Rtek2.1(tunable) vs. SAFC or other fuel controller.. That's the only question. If it were winter time, I'd go haltech. I don't want my car off the road just yet. That is all.

 

bill, youre a smart guy. get one of the haltech e6k's for sale on this forum for 600$ or less and never have to worry about computer **** again. many of the used computers come with everything needed, 2 hours of plugging things in and youre running. 2 hours of tuning and youre running well.

i wouldnt even waste my time on a 2.1 or stock ****. my e6k was perfect. worked all the time every time. made my 13b more reliable than all the sr's at the track. ran full season with one on a dirty tune making about 270hp, not a single failure ever.. think about that. all i did between events was change oil and put gas in it. at events all i did was change tires.

 

Well ****, if it's that easy... I may as well run an e6k. Thanks for the input man.

 

You have no clue how they work. They alter the boost sensor voltage. This is a signal the controls the fuel and timing maps.

//Sorry for the side track OP
I'm not sure why you'd need 720's and 1000's for a stock turbo.

I'd keep the lower injectors to make a better idle. The lower injectors just tend to idle better although it can be dealt with once you go big ecu.

I do agree on Haltech if you plan on going bigger. It's just a big jump in price since you need to use a wideband and then tune. You also have to get over the hurdle of getting it installed correctly(all the sensors/settings).

 

he already has a wideband. older systems come with terminated harness' that make it so simple to install that a 16yo honda kid could do it. so much support for the standalones that its dumb to go any other route.

 

Nismo, I've had the 2.1 for an 88 turbo II. While it is good for what it does, i pretty quickly found myself out-growing the ecu. If you check out one of my threads, you'll see that my major issues with it was limited injector control, https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/2-1-fjo-injector-driver-950-1000%3Dwin-871863/, and getting rid of the palm/hand controller.

If you have time to "tune" (as in street driving) then you're in luck as the adjustment screen doesn't allow for a complete view of the tuning maps. It also doesn't allow for multiple cell adjustments. Now you may think, "no big deal, i can still work with it," but consider this. I took my TII to a dyno and spent 3 hours on tuning. Biggest issue was having to individually adjust every cell in the 2.1 (two palm crashes as well and I'm not including that issue).

I ended up getting DIYPnP from Mega (another can of worms) and got the same tuning done in 40 min! My point is that $200+ savings is money you could have easily applied to a used/new Haltech. The Haltech will have a higher working ceiling, removal of the AFM, wider injector options, etc.

Oh, and I'm not recommending the DIYPnP unless you have time and you're willing to be a part of development as there aren't many people on it and development @ DIYAutotune was limited.

Trust, go this route and save yourself the headaches of selling stuff down the road to fund the option you should have gone with initially.

 

^ that's exactly what I needed from this thread! Someone who had had expereince with an rtek2.1. I appreciate you chiming in man. No offense to Bucky, nor anyone else I just figured someone would have had actual time with the tunable rtek2.1.
Price wise, it's super appealing, I just figured I'd see what was up with people on this forum so I could get actual results. The rtek forum seems super biased and running apexi safc seem too old-school for me. I'll just keep making the car lighter and work on some angle mods for now till I get a raise again.

Thanks a lot guys, I knew there was a reason why I got back into FC's.

 

+1. This was my understanding as well.

 

this is my point exactly.

even if he doesnt have a wideband any reputable tuner should have the Innovative standalone wideband that goes into your exhaust to tune the car... like come on, $150 for an AEM UEGO is too much to get the car right?

i'm less then $700 into my haltech swap, and thats including harness, all new HALTECH sensors, 2 new injectors, and a walbro + shipping on everything...

how much is the rtek 2.1+ or whatever?
@digi7 i'm sorry i hurt your feelings and you're getting all emo... i have plenty of real world experience with it, and was only trying to give my opinion to see the OP make the right choice, the first time. i'm not some internet nerd that researches everything by any means. but i'm definitely not retarded, as my stock setup is faster than your car, and has done more than yours... take that as you may. /

 

not to mention the fact you get a rev limiter.....

FCD, n332, 550/GSL-SE 680's (common), and downpipe will be more than enough FOR NOW to get you driving safe, and then when winter/whatever rolls around you could do the haltech. i was scared of doing it too at first, but it's the same thing. i have $300 in Haltech sensors, and now i have full control over my setup.

 

SAFC's work by altering your MAF signal. So when you "add fuel" your SAFC is send a higher voltage to the MAF part of the ecu tricking it into thinking there is more air coming in so it needs to add the proper fuel to this air. The problem is that by doing this your also advancing the timing. More air and more fuel takes longer to light off so the ignition is fired sooner to help maximize power, but this can lead to preignition is your A/F isn't correct. Which is common when injectors are maxed out do to the SAFC settings. If you have bigger injectors your "safer" but not by much.

The Rtek2.1 offers control over the fuel WITHOUT altering MAF signals or "tricking" anything, just like full standalones. The Rtek2.1 is also cheaper then most if not all other options out there for "real" fuel control and is a very reliable unit. Like i said, 5 or 6 years on a DD drift car making 260 AT THE WHEELS. It works, It's a good price and it gets results.

I'm not saying the Rtek2.1 is the end all of standalones, it definately has its limits but for something you can plug in and drive with no chassis or engine wiring modifcations it's great. Myself, I'm saving up for a standalone but I've also been running the Rtek1.7 for 2 years now and I have no complaints about it. It's a bandaid for sure but it will get me by until I feel the need for more power. But I like buying suspension parts, tires and diff mounts lol so it's gonna be awhile.

 

I really am glad I have input from people who are actually out there making **** happen.
Thanks guys.

Bucky, paint your ******* car, please.

Ps, JTP totaled his **** today at toad atlanta, old news I know. But I root for a Michigan boy.

 

+1 for diff mounts. one of these days i'm going to make a ******* roll cage for that thing so it never breaks (the mount) again.

teaser photos son.... teaser photos.

i'm like a stripper. (oh excuse me..... exotic dancer)

 

Yeah, definitely go with suspension work first. Consider ALL of the costs involved with tuning. You'd really be surprised at just how much you spend when you consider the ecu costs, tuner costs, dyno time, OEM/DIY harness and accessories.