Hey guys, im working on my engine setup. I have been searching around, but i cant decide on which to run. i want to keep **** easy for now, so i dont want to get a Haltech or anything like that.

I'd like to run a stock turbo at around 10lbs, and keep it DD as well, (just for this year) so my question is, would it be easy to just get an Rtek for tuning or run Piggyback fuel controller and an electroninc boost controller? I plan on getting 2x 750 primary injectors, and 2x1000 secondaries.

I have an Lc-1 wideband with guage that will be going in, 3" downpipe, with a 3" straight pipe all the way out, porting my wastegate when that stuff goes in as well.

what do you guys think? I know you can pull timing with the Rtek so thats appealing.. but i just wabt to know what some of you guys would do with these two options.

Thanks

 

I may be a little out dated in my stock turbo rotary days, but if it is just 10 lbs, I think you can use the stock computer, stock injectors, with a fuel cut defender and be fine. S5 turbos run 7.5 psi stock, I don't think 2.5 psi is a big deal. I personally know a lot of idiots that have boost creeped 12+ psi on stock everything many times and lived to blow the motor later. Get a nice fuel pump and FMIC and go at it.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

 

**** Rtek. it's wasted money, and my car went through 3 motors on one.

Stock ECU, buy 2x 680-800cc injectors, send all of your injectors to RC Engineering, and buy a new fuel pump, fuel filter, and replace all the rubber fuel hose coming from your tank to the rails. run stock timing <- seriously! run only 91, or higher ( i was running 105 with this setup)
let your turbo spike to 14 psi all day.

if your fuel system is 100% on point, your motor won't blow up, unless it's needing a rebuild already.

Edit: this is assuming you have a TII core motor, low comp rotors, fuel cut defender etc.

 

Bucky, you're too legit for my tastes. Haha, I want a stepping stone setup. Eventually I'd like to be sitting around 300 hp. (within a few months.) I'm prolly going to run this motor into the dirt then swap it with a jdm core.

 

Power FC / Haltech or nothin'. don't waste time with 'stepping stone' this or that.

do it right the first time; you will always regret doing something half-way then undoing it
just to do it all again the way you should have in the first place. I never understand why
people do this.

how is a haltech / PFC not easy? it's really pretty plug-and-play. and don't even touch timing.

 

JTP proved the setup to be golden! i followed it for a bit, but everyone now even in pro-ams (west coast) has a minimum of 400whp, so i'm trying to step up a bit too. plus having power is fun.

my car was plenty "fast" with that setup. but if i got phased off the start/pace cone, it was hard to make a come back...

you'll love it. plus it's relatively cheap. you could always get an SAFC, and fine tune it a little bit, but my 550/720 setup was sick. i would suggest getting an MBC and setting the boost to 12 constant PSI if you run pump 100/105

 

let's just say that with 550/1000, PFC, gangster tune with zero timing adjustment at 12 lbs . . . Dave Briggs can't really put distance on me on horsethief.

 

it's nice to learn the fundamentals of driving/drifting before just going to the max. If money is no option, obviously a haltech is one of the best options compared to stock ecu.

i wouldn't do powerFC. ditch the stock 20yr old crap, and having everything new if youre going to do it.

 

Dave Briggs isn't special.

 

i know. but the car is. hahaha

 

THIS = <3

hahaha i LOL'd at that. i tried talking to that dude @ Vegas Pro-Am last year asking about his setup... he was all sorts of cocky.

he was pissed when he got 3rd and i placed higher after him "shunning" me away kind of.

 

 

i've known him awhile, and he's not a bad guy.

but yeah, he has his moments. He was upset all weekend
because I wouldn't trade car numbers with him. I was #24
which is "his" number. he has it on his shirts, website,
everything. LOL!

forsberg said it's the most prepped / well driving S14 he's ever driven.

 

the OG setup is a bigger fuel pump and an Fcon... i had a hybrid turbo (before BNR), and used to run 11psi, and see 13 when it was cold...

step 2 is bigger injectors and the GCC.

step 3 was gonna be the 60-1 and greddy IC, but i sold the car

 

yea no i just enjoy giving him ****. he piled into Forrest's car twice... i spent a ton of time body working the **** out of his first dent from a failed burnout attempt @ Irwindale, and after the car was sprayed he hit him again @ AZ.

 

I agree with this. Deal snipe a good ems or buy an msns v3.


Power FC IS a piggy back. An overpriced one at that.

 

Haha thanks for the input guys, Buckey, did you have an rtek 2.1? Or the 1.7 ****? The ver.2 is a lot better from what I here, people are throwing down 320-375hp reliably..

 

you're a goddamn retard.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/images/?id=6014

 

Lol!!!!

 

i had the first version of 1.7 so it wasn't tunable. although it was "supposed" to have an FCD internally (chipped or whatever) and i honestly think it was a stock n333 ecu in an Rtek case.... i couldn't tell you for sure if Rtek itself is garbage, but i can tell you if my ECU was an RTEK internally, then yes, it sucked for me, but the new version may be better. but i wouldnt recommend using them still as you're going the wrong route.

Haltech's are $400-$1000 used/new. you'll be better in the long run with a haltech.

 

I'm definately going haltech in the future if not now. I just don't really want my car to have any down time this year. When one of my states awesome ******* winters hit, I should have plenty of time for a cage and new engine set up, I could always sell the rtek/safc ****, to help throw Benny's down on the haltech ****. I just want to have a little control over what the car is doing this year. I'm also getting a $5 an hour raise over the next 6 months, so by the time the season is over I'll be in point with funds hopefully.

I mainly just want safe power and to get out there and beat the dick off this car..

 

you could run the Stock N332 ecu with all the factory N318 sensors, buy a wideband, Fuel Cut Defender, and an SAFC2, and have a very good setup to get you through the season for little money. there's nothing wrong with the factory stuff if you're on stock turbo, at stock-ish power levels. you'll make almost 280whp on 12-14psi if not sub 300 despite all the "talk" on this forum of stock turbo not throwing down, i'm sure it's really close.

you'll definitely be faster than most LSX powered cars at this level, and sub 400hp SR's.

 

sorry to say

https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/pretty-much-stock-226whp-221-torque-895159/

this is what stock will make you

this isn't to say, this is slow, it is still quick enough to do anything you want in drifting

but hey, a streetport and fmic will get you to 280

https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/fc-280rwhp-852783/

 

My HP curve sounded similar to the 280whp one. i'll post numbers once it's tuned as my setup is similar to both almost.

550/880 ported TB, deleted flapper S4 Turbo manifold, with turbo. 12-14psi, fresh rebuild, and haltech with 3.5 DP/exhaust.

alot of dyno's read differently the more you actually look into it. as you know there's tons of variables. but yea for sure 300 is very unlikely, but it's been done with an upgraded compressor much like your setup now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8OqM...eature=related

 

You guys are teh shiz.. Thanks a lot.