The Official N/A Drifting Thread
#1
The Official N/A Drifting Thread
Ok, before you flame me, this isn't another "can my n/a fc drift" thread. I have already read through those. Drifting doesn't have a set definition other then controlled oversteer. For the purpose of this thread, the drifting discussed will be based on competitive drifting at a local track.
When I went to watch a local drift competition, I saw an N/A fc trying to drift...I say trying because he was understeering more then over steering. From what I observed , he was trying to power over...very hard to do in an underpowered (lets face it, an n/a fc is underpowered) car. Whenever he would do this, his front wheels would lock up, and the back wheels would grip the road. Drifting an underpowered car is possible, look at the hachi roku (ae86), but thats a completely different animal. The FC is unique because of its low polar movement. This was showed when a tii tore up the track with flawless transitions through drifts (all one fluid drift). The n/a fc almost never lost traction to the rear tires. It looked like a stock base model, with stock height. It got really bad wobble, and all of the weight was put to one corner of the car.
At first, this discouraged me from bringing my GTU to the next competition. Then it made me start thinking. The stock suspension and tires where causing him to fail. The suspension should be stiffer to prevent "wobble", and the front tires should be low profile and wider to prevent understeer. The second factor in the n/a's inability to drift seemed to be the drivers technique. I think that instead of trying to power over, it would be wiser to pull the e-break, and after the traction is broken, use the throttle to maintain the slide. The throttle will only be able to control the drifts to a certain extent, the extent of the power availible. Like I said, the car was quiet, so I couldn't hear the RPM's that he was drifting at. Since the FC has all of the power at the top of the RPM range, I think it would be wisest to keep your RPM's high. (Does the stock FC have a rev limiter? I think it would be wise to get one if not, to give the driver the ability to "bounce off" it in second gear to maintain the high rpm's without damaging the engine.). Like it was said a numerous amount of times, (beefy n/a thread) an fc can only have so many things done to it, with out sacrificing drivability. Porting and polishing is the number one way to get more power out of an fc, but some people don't have the resources to do that.
Before going to the next event, I will have to "prepare my car". It is a 1988 GTU, so I dont know if the suspension is adequate for drifting. I dont have the resources to port my engine so I will have to settle for a full exhaust, and maybe a custom built intake box. (the trottle body mods, and anything to do with modifying the fuel system seems to be pointless on an n/a).
I started this thread get other peoples opinions and hear their experiences with drifting an n/a fc. Lets get this thread rolling.
When I went to watch a local drift competition, I saw an N/A fc trying to drift...I say trying because he was understeering more then over steering. From what I observed , he was trying to power over...very hard to do in an underpowered (lets face it, an n/a fc is underpowered) car. Whenever he would do this, his front wheels would lock up, and the back wheels would grip the road. Drifting an underpowered car is possible, look at the hachi roku (ae86), but thats a completely different animal. The FC is unique because of its low polar movement. This was showed when a tii tore up the track with flawless transitions through drifts (all one fluid drift). The n/a fc almost never lost traction to the rear tires. It looked like a stock base model, with stock height. It got really bad wobble, and all of the weight was put to one corner of the car.
At first, this discouraged me from bringing my GTU to the next competition. Then it made me start thinking. The stock suspension and tires where causing him to fail. The suspension should be stiffer to prevent "wobble", and the front tires should be low profile and wider to prevent understeer. The second factor in the n/a's inability to drift seemed to be the drivers technique. I think that instead of trying to power over, it would be wiser to pull the e-break, and after the traction is broken, use the throttle to maintain the slide. The throttle will only be able to control the drifts to a certain extent, the extent of the power availible. Like I said, the car was quiet, so I couldn't hear the RPM's that he was drifting at. Since the FC has all of the power at the top of the RPM range, I think it would be wisest to keep your RPM's high. (Does the stock FC have a rev limiter? I think it would be wise to get one if not, to give the driver the ability to "bounce off" it in second gear to maintain the high rpm's without damaging the engine.). Like it was said a numerous amount of times, (beefy n/a thread) an fc can only have so many things done to it, with out sacrificing drivability. Porting and polishing is the number one way to get more power out of an fc, but some people don't have the resources to do that.
Before going to the next event, I will have to "prepare my car". It is a 1988 GTU, so I dont know if the suspension is adequate for drifting. I dont have the resources to port my engine so I will have to settle for a full exhaust, and maybe a custom built intake box. (the trottle body mods, and anything to do with modifying the fuel system seems to be pointless on an n/a).
I started this thread get other peoples opinions and hear their experiences with drifting an n/a fc. Lets get this thread rolling.
#2
my 87 revvs out at 8,500rpm. the beeper goes on at 6500
they say that and rx7 need two fuel pumps for really hard corners, as the fuel pickup is only on one side of the tank. mine cuts out when i get too sideways...
some of my mods are in the description. strut bars help a **** load with strength .
they say that and rx7 need two fuel pumps for really hard corners, as the fuel pickup is only on one side of the tank. mine cuts out when i get too sideways...
some of my mods are in the description. strut bars help a **** load with strength .
#3
Cool I have the answers you need, watch this video http://youtube.com/watch?v=-qXtvvUnjCo
This is me and my car earlier this year. I've been taking my NA to the track and started 3 years ago, but the 2nd year I only went to 2 events so I don't know if it really counts.
Anyway, the mods on my car are as follow: cut stock springs, KYB GR-2 shocks, stock air box with K&N replacement filter, gutted cat, and that's it. I have a racing seat to help me out a bit. From what I've heard from drivers Todd Ho, Henry Ahn, good friend Peter (Junpower on here), all of which are Bay Area guys and Todd's in formula D now and Henry is waiting lol. I guess the trick of the FC, to be blunt, for me is: go in faster than normal, let off the gas as I turn in, and jus floor it through the turn. Accel off is I think the way to drift this car. E-brake works for some I guess but I think it slows me down too much, braking drifts work well depending on the turn, and feint is another good way of doing it without losing too much speed. In the video I did a couple braking drifts and clutch kicks the first couple runs, but after warming up I just did accel off drifts the rest of the day. Hope that helps!
-Alex
P.S. RETed wtf is IBTL?
This is me and my car earlier this year. I've been taking my NA to the track and started 3 years ago, but the 2nd year I only went to 2 events so I don't know if it really counts.
Anyway, the mods on my car are as follow: cut stock springs, KYB GR-2 shocks, stock air box with K&N replacement filter, gutted cat, and that's it. I have a racing seat to help me out a bit. From what I've heard from drivers Todd Ho, Henry Ahn, good friend Peter (Junpower on here), all of which are Bay Area guys and Todd's in formula D now and Henry is waiting lol. I guess the trick of the FC, to be blunt, for me is: go in faster than normal, let off the gas as I turn in, and jus floor it through the turn. Accel off is I think the way to drift this car. E-brake works for some I guess but I think it slows me down too much, braking drifts work well depending on the turn, and feint is another good way of doing it without losing too much speed. In the video I did a couple braking drifts and clutch kicks the first couple runs, but after warming up I just did accel off drifts the rest of the day. Hope that helps!
-Alex
P.S. RETed wtf is IBTL?
#4
My 87 GXL does completely fine for these drifting competitions.
Autocross on the other hand it starts to lag a bit behind.
To be honest, I think it more of skill based. The RX-7 is very well balanced and it's got enough power in the rear to keep it sideways. The Suspension is no TIEN but you can still have a good time; it's not like EVERYONE is Takumi or anything...
Autocross on the other hand it starts to lag a bit behind.
To be honest, I think it more of skill based. The RX-7 is very well balanced and it's got enough power in the rear to keep it sideways. The Suspension is no TIEN but you can still have a good time; it's not like EVERYONE is Takumi or anything...
#5
#6
Cool I have the answers you need, watch this video http://youtube.com/watch?v=-qXtvvUnjCo
This is me and my car earlier this year. I've been taking my NA to the track and started 3 years ago, but the 2nd year I only went to 2 events so I don't know if it really counts.
Anyway, the mods on my car are as follow: cut stock springs, KYB GR-2 shocks, stock air box with K&N replacement filter, gutted cat, and that's it. I have a racing seat to help me out a bit. From what I've heard from drivers Todd Ho, Henry Ahn, good friend Peter (Junpower on here), all of which are Bay Area guys and Todd's in formula D now and Henry is waiting lol. I guess the trick of the FC, to be blunt, for me is: go in faster than normal, let off the gas as I turn in, and jus floor it through the turn. Accel off is I think the way to drift this car. E-brake works for some I guess but I think it slows me down too much, braking drifts work well depending on the turn, and feint is another good way of doing it without losing too much speed. In the video I did a couple braking drifts and clutch kicks the first couple runs, but after warming up I just did accel off drifts the rest of the day. Hope that helps!
This is me and my car earlier this year. I've been taking my NA to the track and started 3 years ago, but the 2nd year I only went to 2 events so I don't know if it really counts.
Anyway, the mods on my car are as follow: cut stock springs, KYB GR-2 shocks, stock air box with K&N replacement filter, gutted cat, and that's it. I have a racing seat to help me out a bit. From what I've heard from drivers Todd Ho, Henry Ahn, good friend Peter (Junpower on here), all of which are Bay Area guys and Todd's in formula D now and Henry is waiting lol. I guess the trick of the FC, to be blunt, for me is: go in faster than normal, let off the gas as I turn in, and jus floor it through the turn. Accel off is I think the way to drift this car. E-brake works for some I guess but I think it slows me down too much, braking drifts work well depending on the turn, and feint is another good way of doing it without losing too much speed. In the video I did a couple braking drifts and clutch kicks the first couple runs, but after warming up I just did accel off drifts the rest of the day. Hope that helps!
Actually, I just looked at the vid, and I'm impressed.
It's hard to believe a non-turbo FC can actually drift like that.
Steering angle looks limited, but that just makes it harder to drift.
That's why I ask if your steering is stock?
Your suspension is holding you back.
The car wallows like a pig in mud.
The suspension is just too soft, and upgrade suspension should help you a lot in the future.
If you do run into Ho Master, tell that bitch I said WAASSSSAAbbbbbbbbiiiiii.
-Ted
#7
All i have to add is this. Install a Pinion Snubber (Bump Stop) above the nose of the differential. I just replaced my differential mount and added one. Now theres no room for the differential to torque upwards and break the mount EVER again i can actually break the car loose and have fun now ^_^. I haven't started drifting yet but my suspension mods are Tokico HPs (blue) with eibach springs and i like it ALOT.
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#8
Haha Micaheli it has paint....crazy loud paint! *see sig
RETed thank you! but you reminded me, I forgot to add that I did the Todd Ho thing and added washers in the steering rack lol. Oops sorry I forgot that little piece of info.
RETed thank you! but you reminded me, I forgot to add that I did the Todd Ho thing and added washers in the steering rack lol. Oops sorry I forgot that little piece of info.
#10
I can't really give ya pictures cause it's hidden under the inner tie rod boot, but what you have to do is get some washers to place on the inner part of the tie rod. You can space it up to 1/4". I just got some generic washers from the local hardware store that fit over the tie rod. You slide em over the tie rod, the end that screws into the steering rack, get an alignment, and you're done. Best .30 cent mod I've ever done. Helps a lot but I still don't have 240 steering angle. I would like to get the real get for this one day. Super Now has an angle kit, and so does Mazdatrix and some other companies.
#15
Great info guys! FYI Justin (boostinmys5) started drifting stock n/a, then did the tII swap. He also told me that you don't need undersway bars, stockers are okay. The best thing is coilovers or springs and shocks, an lsd, and some practice. Once you've got that going you can start working on adjusting camber and getting the dtss eliminators and a steering angle kit. Once that's done, it's up to you to drop in a turbo or stay na. Good luck, and again, good info guys!
#18
I think you could be right about a few things, but here's what I feel.
Don't worry about getting wider wheels for the front. That will probably just limit your steering anyways. Just get a good set of front tires that will stick better if you can't make it work w the stuff you have on right now.
Get a diff! The stock NA diff isn't good for drifting. AngryEarl tried to drift my car + couldn't because of the open diff. It's a bitch when one tire keeps regaining traction all the time.
Get some dtss eliminators. One reason why you don't see many FC's in D1GP or other drift events is because of the rear suspension not being solid (like the 240's) The more solid you have the rear, the easier it will be to break it loose.
Get some coilovers. I just spent 811 on ebay to get some used teins. That's nowhere near the price brand new. They'll last me probably 2 years or so (depending on how they were driven in the first place) + then I can always get them rebuild.
You don't really NEED more power... But it helps a bit.
Now, these are just suggestions. I'm not saying that a bone stock FC can't drift without practice. But I think these things will help you out quite a bit.
Don't worry about getting wider wheels for the front. That will probably just limit your steering anyways. Just get a good set of front tires that will stick better if you can't make it work w the stuff you have on right now.
Get a diff! The stock NA diff isn't good for drifting. AngryEarl tried to drift my car + couldn't because of the open diff. It's a bitch when one tire keeps regaining traction all the time.
Get some dtss eliminators. One reason why you don't see many FC's in D1GP or other drift events is because of the rear suspension not being solid (like the 240's) The more solid you have the rear, the easier it will be to break it loose.
Get some coilovers. I just spent 811 on ebay to get some used teins. That's nowhere near the price brand new. They'll last me probably 2 years or so (depending on how they were driven in the first place) + then I can always get them rebuild.
You don't really NEED more power... But it helps a bit.
Now, these are just suggestions. I'm not saying that a bone stock FC can't drift without practice. But I think these things will help you out quite a bit.
#19
Don't worry about getting wider wheels for the front. That will probably just limit your steering anyways. Just get a good set of front tires that will stick better if you can't make it work w the stuff you have on right now.
Get a diff! The stock NA diff isn't good for drifting. AngryEarl tried to drift my car + couldn't because of the open diff. It's a bitch when one tire keeps regaining traction all the time.
Get some dtss eliminators. One reason why you don't see many FC's in D1GP or other drift events is because of the rear suspension not being solid (like the 240's) The more solid you have the rear, the easier it will be to break it loose.
Get some coilovers. I just spent 811 on ebay to get some used teins. That's nowhere near the price brand new. They'll last me probably 2 years or so (depending on how they were driven in the first place) + then I can always get them rebuild.
You don't really NEED more power... But it helps a bit.
Now, these are just suggestions. I'm not saying that a bone stock FC can't drift without practice. But I think these things will help you out quite a bit.
Get a diff! The stock NA diff isn't good for drifting. AngryEarl tried to drift my car + couldn't because of the open diff. It's a bitch when one tire keeps regaining traction all the time.
Get some dtss eliminators. One reason why you don't see many FC's in D1GP or other drift events is because of the rear suspension not being solid (like the 240's) The more solid you have the rear, the easier it will be to break it loose.
Get some coilovers. I just spent 811 on ebay to get some used teins. That's nowhere near the price brand new. They'll last me probably 2 years or so (depending on how they were driven in the first place) + then I can always get them rebuild.
You don't really NEED more power... But it helps a bit.
Now, these are just suggestions. I'm not saying that a bone stock FC can't drift without practice. But I think these things will help you out quite a bit.
I run 17x9 front and 17x10 rear.
Stock S4 LSD is just fine for dori. Just let that bitch cool down between runs! On a really hot day with crappy diff oil in it, it might overheat and go full open. And that sucks.
DTSS is FINE for drifting. A lot of people who say it's impossible have never tried it. I don't even feel it... I don't see how it's such a big problem.
Coilovers are nice.
More power is good, but no power is good for practice. Teaches you technique instead of pedal mashing ability. Rock the NA stock for a while, then build it a bit.
#20
I run 17x9 front and 17x10 rear.
Stock S4 LSD is just fine for dori. Just let that bitch cool down between runs! On a really hot day with crappy diff oil in it, it might overheat and go full open. And that sucks.
DTSS is FINE for drifting. A lot of people who say it's impossible have never tried it. I don't even feel it... I don't see how it's such a big problem.
Coilovers are nice.
More power is good, but no power is good for practice. Teaches you technique instead of pedal mashing ability. Rock the NA stock for a while, then build it a bit.
Stock S4 LSD is just fine for dori. Just let that bitch cool down between runs! On a really hot day with crappy diff oil in it, it might overheat and go full open. And that sucks.
DTSS is FINE for drifting. A lot of people who say it's impossible have never tried it. I don't even feel it... I don't see how it's such a big problem.
Coilovers are nice.
More power is good, but no power is good for practice. Teaches you technique instead of pedal mashing ability. Rock the NA stock for a while, then build it a bit.
I still honestly feel that 17" rims are too big. I run 16x8's all around. 245/45/16 w the coilovers + spacers up front. They weigh the same as the stock rims I have. Maybe an ounce or two heavier, but basically the same. There's too much rotational mass on 17" rims, esp for something that doesn't make much power to begin with.
just my $.02
#21
My FC is fine for drifting. I can feel the DTSS but I'm also weird. Here is a really good idea though. Get like $30 and grab yourself a pair of some crappy rims that work and some junk used tyres to practice with... It's what I do
#22
Drifting can be done in any car.
I even drifted my 1974 Buick Rivera 5800 GRVW!!
Drifting isn't decided by which car your driving,
It's done by the driver, but yes, more power will just give you a better edge.
Learning in an underpowered car will help you learn weight transfer and steering techniques faster then move on to power.
Camber plates on the front and sway bars will help the car understeer less during drifting and shocks and springs will give you better responce and faster reactions.
If your car is underpowered use H rated tires for less traction,that will let your tires spin with less TQ to the wheels.Gives you the effect of more power.Keep good tires up front.
I even drifted my 1974 Buick Rivera 5800 GRVW!!
Drifting isn't decided by which car your driving,
It's done by the driver, but yes, more power will just give you a better edge.
Learning in an underpowered car will help you learn weight transfer and steering techniques faster then move on to power.
Camber plates on the front and sway bars will help the car understeer less during drifting and shocks and springs will give you better responce and faster reactions.
If your car is underpowered use H rated tires for less traction,that will let your tires spin with less TQ to the wheels.Gives you the effect of more power.Keep good tires up front.
#23
laserkei said it: Drift Bible.. $16 and it goes through everything.. minimum mods for drifting, practice drills, techniques for drifting cars with under/major oversteer, low power cars, etc. you can even find the whole thing on google video it's blurry though. drifting's an art not something you can just go out and master with one pull of the e-brake. (keiichi would agree with JunpoweR: "you can drift ANY car")
#25
I used to feint the hell out of it to upset and hammerfist the clutch to help.
My GTU was Bone STock in every way. It did just fine, you just have to work it.
Heres a video of my second third time ever drifting on a track. 225/50/16's on teh back were kind of tough on stock suspension and a dying clutch lol. But you get the idea.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...arch&plindex=8
Since that video i put that car through probably 10 events or so over the last year. I learned so much it was incredible. I will try and dig up some better stuff.
Heres some pics from turner field, atl. (i live 45min north, nice and local), adn two from AMS 250 event (Bottom two, that was my first event ever, so much fun!)'
But yeah, drifting N/A rx7s just takes a lot of technique, and it helps to have a hefty pair of ***** lol. And remember, lifting is for your LEFT foot!! Never lift the righ!!
I have a built t2 now. Should have some footage soon.
**Pics failed** I'll redo them later
Austin
My GTU was Bone STock in every way. It did just fine, you just have to work it.
Heres a video of my second third time ever drifting on a track. 225/50/16's on teh back were kind of tough on stock suspension and a dying clutch lol. But you get the idea.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...arch&plindex=8
Since that video i put that car through probably 10 events or so over the last year. I learned so much it was incredible. I will try and dig up some better stuff.
Heres some pics from turner field, atl. (i live 45min north, nice and local), adn two from AMS 250 event (Bottom two, that was my first event ever, so much fun!)'
But yeah, drifting N/A rx7s just takes a lot of technique, and it helps to have a hefty pair of ***** lol. And remember, lifting is for your LEFT foot!! Never lift the righ!!
I have a built t2 now. Should have some footage soon.
**Pics failed** I'll redo them later
Austin