J.T.P.

iTrader: (13)

yeah you definitely read that wrong..

BALLZAK8

Justin on a n/a fc you would still recomend the 8/6 rate? I drift the car, well I attempt.

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Just thought I'd share. When I was running N/A I had 8/6kg set up, I loved the grip and squat I'd get. I even had a guy from PBM recommend I stay stiffer but after having ridden other stiffer sets up I definitely like these rates.

BALLZAK8

Thanks, I was planing on running those rates. I just wanted to hear a lil feedback from someone with a n/a fc. Im planing on goin turbo but not till I learn a lil more with the n/a power, coils are my next step.

J.T.P.

iTrader: (13)

yeah those rates should work well for n/a or turbo.. it's more for the weight of the car than the power...

BALLZAK8

I know its more for the weight of the car then the power, but I wasn't sure if a stiffer rate could help with the lack of power. Im prolly just gonna go 8/6 and call it day.

J.T.P.

iTrader: (13)

it would be better to adjust dampening, tire pressure and alignment to dial grip out instead of spring rate..

BALLZAK8

Thats what I was thinking, but I was not 100% sure cause ive never setup a drift car. Would it also help to run something like the 615ks up front and just run all seasons in the back?

10thslydur

iTrader: (3)

Like what was said tire pressure will be your best friend with dealing with the lack of power

J.T.P.

iTrader: (13)

definitely running a stickier tire up front and a less grippy tire in the rear will help...

yeah, tire pressure is definitely the easiest way to adjust grip.

BALLZAK8

Thanks for the help, Justin.

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

This is me being too lazy to do my own research...

Who is running 18's up front? What's the easiest way I can keep my 18x9.5 +12 TEs and still run angle mods? My car rubs when I turn left or right(frame rail and A-arm) and on the fenders. I don't want to chop up my front end or run tubs.

Do I need to bite the bullet and just buy 50mm front fenders and add spacers or can I get away with just getting FLCA extensions + slotting the coilover mounts and keep my fenders?

I can add spacers on my cuurent setup and get some extra clearance but my wheels barely fit under the +25mm fenders as they are. I still haven't "slotted" the upper mount hole on my coilovers yet, either.
picture for reference below, (Max camber on top hat, non slotted mounts)



And there's no way I can run PBM's full kit with those sized wheels without adding spacers and 50mm overs, right? Thoughts, opinions? What would you do?



Also, Im trying to actually drive the car without the fenders exploding
you know like at the track


like a real car

Zenki FC3S

yea dude i would get 50mm spacers and run more negative camber with the coilover mount. slot it and shave down the sides of the spindle to let it slide in for moar camberz.

crazy negative camber but it fits the fenders, looks badass, and makes the front end react quick and snappy.

thats what i do

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

well i kinda like my alignment. i dont to add camber for no reason

Zenki FC3S

Get hotline front fenders and have legit camber with lower offset to clear lca.

I have 18's and run -27 offset with 30mm fenders. I like a Lil neg camber but can still pull it out.

theshdwconspracy

How much camber are you running now?

The LCA is hard to avoid without making your own custom ones or buying the PBM stuff that's coming out.

The other solution is to do what george did and notch the frame rail and then box in the notch to give more clearance.

Otherwise spacer and camber is the best option. I run between 6-8* in the front and it feels really good.

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

Well, I really do not want to start hacking up my car. Im looking for the easiest, least invasive way to do this. -8 camber sounds ridiculous. im running about -3 to -3.5 right now and im completely fine with. Im not opposed to trying more camber to see how it feels but -8 just seems like a waste of tires. It seems like id be sacrificing front end grip for angle clearance at that point.

I think Ill get some some spacers and stack them on there and see if its even possible to get clearance with my current alignment. If not, I guess i'll be forced to add more camber.

Zenki FC3S

yea dude no need to hack anything. i personally like the neg camber up front. i dont do alignments and **** so i dont know what degree im at but ill drive with my top hats camber maxed to make as much positive camber as i can, and when i want to slide it up ill adjust them for negative camber. no loss of front grip while sliding and feels great. doesnt really wear out the tire unless you are street driving and leave it negative

theshdwconspracy

Camber doesn't wear tires, toe does.

You have to think about it this way, when you're drifting at angle the wheel "flops" over. at 6* or so depending on your angle and your caster you will see full contact of the tire somewhere on the way to or at full lock. That gives the leading tire a nice contact patch while drifting and gives more front grip. With a good sticky tire up front -8* feels good, doesn't understeer and acts like its supposed to in drifting and while driving.

Zenki FC3S

yea the wheel flop of the outside wheel while turning sucks.

for a drifting set up like you asked, for the track, driven like a real car, neg camber actually helps improve alot of the front end when turning.

its practical. i ran 215's on a 9.5, with lots negative camber and dont understeer

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

.

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

after doing some research i'm gonna readjust my camber to -4.5, add sapcers and just buy bigger fenders. its the easiest way

peglism

hey guys, my rx7 fc drifter started it a year ago and still going close to finish now... well sorta!
got the car off a mate for dirt cheap with afew goodies first rotary and no clue how they go soon to find out

Suspension:
tien coilovers (atm) 8kg frount and 6kg rear - will be getting some shockworks custom made coilovers shortly
JDI custom cut and shut knuckles
rack spacers for now
havn't dones much more as i wanna learn it with out it to start in it
all camber adjustments will be done once i get new coilovers and what not!

Brakes:
Stock!!
Stock brake lines
Blitz pads
Hydro hand brake
+stock handbrake if hydro fails (got a picture)

Engine:
full race extend port (s5 13bt)
CNC dowell engine block
machined rotor housing to suit race plugs
all balanced up
Microtech LT10s x4IGBT
Garrett gt3582r turbo with a 12cm .89 rearhousing
custom shed 10 steampipe highmount manifold with twinsroll gate port
custom in bay Greddy cooler + stock rad
custom oil cooler kit
custom powersteering cooler kit + electric powersteering pump
044 bosch external fuel pump
2lt surge tank
aeromotive fuel pressure reg
all new for mostly everything braided lines as all the oil lines were shitty and broken
1000cc id injectors for primary and secondary

Drivetrain:
OS-Giken super single plate clutch
2way mech diff unsure on brand ( as i swapped a guy for my stock lsd he thought his was a weldy...little did he know! )
Soild bushes for:
-engine
-gearbox
-subframe
-diff
-also were subframe joins to diff

Wheels/tires
2 full sets of r34 stockies
full set of CST Hyper zero's 18x9.5+15 all round
full set of rota's cheap stuff
full set of random gold rims 17s with good offset.

afew photos of what iv done!

peglism

sorry the photos didn't upload!

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

PBM coils (cheaper version)
DTSS eliminators
rebuilt NA motor
SDJ header - 2.5" straight pipe
Koyo 53mm
ACT 6 puck
Kaaz 1.5 way
flipped rear diff mounts
45mm extended ball joints(about -7* camber)
abercrombie steering rack spacers
abercrombie ext. tie rods
NRG bucket seat
Cusco 5 point bolt in roll cage
Cusco F&R strut tower bars

For the record, after extending ball joints, 17x9.5 +15(215/40) doesn't fit for F'N SH*T


Upcoming modifications:

T2 swap
Hotline knuckles
hydro e-brake(DONE with the stock e-brake... DOOONE with it.)


Wheel specs:

Front - 17x9.5 +15 215/40 (sits like 9.5 -10 after ball joint mod)

Rear - 17x9.75 -5 215/40