driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

my drift setup = stock FC. throw on spindles. slam it to the ground. add big *** wheels and spacers, and smoke tires.

**** over analyzing ****. drive your car, and learn for yourself.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

^word. I was just worried about camber because of tire wear when I daily. guess I'll just flip tires every now and then and run whatever my adjustable sub link takes out. lol.

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

spindles are next shimmed tie rods for now

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

I have an 87 with a sunroof. I'm using Bride seat mounts and sliders with Recaro SPD seats (bottom mount) and I have to pop the sunroof to sit in it comfortably with my helmet on (I'm only 5'9") How do I get my seat to mount lower??

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

Cut and weld

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

^^^ You mean cut the seat mount and weld it lower??

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I need a new clutch, since my RacingBeat seems to already be burned up after 2 years. Not looking to get into anything crazy just something that will last me on the track and on the street. Not putting down any kinda power since a S4 NA, and don't want to spend buckets of money on it since the car is only DD status for another two years until I can build it.

Looking at the OEM Exedy or Stage 1. Other suggestions?

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

I've used SPEC clutches on ALOT of my cars, but to be honest you have to use a Stage 3 or better. All the cars I have installed Stage 1-2's in have only lasted a year or so :/

But they certainly are a great price!

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I loved my spec stage 3 even though I blew the rivets out of the clutch pack.

80k of daily driving and lots of clutch kicks kill the spring pack before the surface wore down.
It still shifted after 1/2 of the rivets and one spring was gone.

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

Blew my motor at East Coast Bash. Car was running about 10 degrees too hot all day. I only run 8psi of boost. I was at about 6500 rpm and the whole car started shaking then a puff of white smoke from under the hood and it was done. Any opinions? words of wisdom? sympathies?

I'm going to have the motor pulled by Wednesday and apart before the end of the week.

Contemplating if I should rebuild this rotary or go piston. Not sure what to do right now, just don't want to be out for the rest of the season.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to hear about the motor. Take the one from the FD

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I've heard mixed reviews about Spec. And it's just an NA and is drifted less then ten times a year so that a Stage 3 (and the price seems kinda excessive, just don't want to spend more than I have to)

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

I honestly considered it yesterday, but I think the 500hp motor should stay in that car. I have a ton of 13b-rew parts sitting around from other engines and may try to budget rebuild this motor with those parts included to get it back on the track. Seems like a disaster waiting to happen though.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Well then finish up the FD and drive that around. Or do a sweet NA build and make the FC bullet proof.

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

I did honestly consider a NA 20b build for a second there, but it would be by far the most expensive option. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I guess it all depends on how much is destroyed. If it's just a couple coolant seals, then I'll rebuild it. If I cracked irons, warped housings and other stuff then I'll consider a swap. I have a friend who is actually a corvette expert and very experienced with LS motors so it might be an option, but I kinda feel bad about it.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

rebuild it and get real engine management and a good tune

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

I know you're probably right. I have a rotating assembly and rotor housings for a 3rd gen that are in great shape I can use. I guess I'm somewhat disenfranchised because thats the third motor for that car and the other car has been through two. I'm just getting tired of rebuilding rotaries. Gotta make sure the turbo is ok too. Thats a big factor in my decision.

I like the microtech in my car, but I do need some better tuning if I stay rotary. I noticed it starting to break up at 7000rpm at the last D-UP event.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

i didn't know it had a microtech in it. i assumed it was an rtek etc. get it fixed and let kahren tune it

JOOSTIN!

What is the least HP number to drift?

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Well seeing as a stock AE86 can do it, and they have like 100whp there ya go. I do just fine in my NA S4 with a full exhaust, yes more power would make it easier/actually being able to transfer.

But if you're planning on competing in like Pro-Am or something I'd say at least 300? I'm sure some other people will chime in.

HOBODRIFT!

75 lol. i know ppl who are good withsingle cam s13s, sr5 ae86's, and na s4 fc's. power becouse a issue when u want tobe competitive butif ur just trying to have fun it doesntmatter.

backalleyracer

iTrader: (5)

my miata has 80 hp

hp doesn't matter much

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

this is extremely true.

For one of the best rebuild kits available contact Laura @ Rotary Aviation. My Rotary Aviation Super Seal Kit withstood more than i ever thought any rotary ever could. my injectors failed. my fuel pump died. my fuel pressure dropped to almost zero after i got it tuned, and took it drifting. 8500rpm rev limit, and zero fuel @ 14psi is a bad mix.

my tune is super rich, and breaks up at high rpm. i need to go through it again with my tuner but it's better to eat gas, and plugs than waste time pulling/building motors.

nismo_bill

iTrader: (2)

i want to bang off on 8500..

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

this needs to go home...