The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
03-21-11, 08:08 PM
#1001
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You either have something wrong, or are already shimmed. (or your torque wrench is busted.) Stock is 40. Mine ws ~35 shimmed it .17MM and got ~60. It's perfect for me.
03-22-11, 11:56 AM
#1004
its supposed to do that
03-22-11, 01:44 PM
#1005
Just checking in, doing some brake and chasis update. Hope to be back on the road tearing up ****. The fronts are coming off and running a 215 or 225
Specs on mine is stance coils "******* locking pos", 18x9.5 0offset and the rear is 18x10.5
-25 offset. Thinking of getting more coils but haven't decided which ones
03-24-11, 03:47 AM
#1007
I would imagine that would just fillet the **** out of them considering the tread pattern.
3 vice grips AND the strength of a bear chant was required to get mine back together when i shimmed it.
I've been trying to find out if ford disks will work in oem or re-a diffs but got slack and let it go in the midst of 1000010938098203984092834092834 things going on at once with my car right now as it is.
I've been trying to find out if ford disks will work in oem or re-a diffs but got slack and let it go in the midst of 1000010938098203984092834092834 things going on at once with my car right now as it is.
03-27-11, 03:41 AM
#1015
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dont need power to be good, but power helps to be rad!
that car ran the banks of irwindale with 250whp+
honestly, its all about the setup. now that i have driven the car on his setup, i know it can achieve tonz. the angle and grip is dope, the car squats and hooks up perfectly..... its definitely amazing what his kit and setup has done for my fc and the confidence it give the driver in the seat.
that car ran the banks of irwindale with 250whp+
honestly, its all about the setup. now that i have driven the car on his setup, i know it can achieve tonz. the angle and grip is dope, the car squats and hooks up perfectly..... its definitely amazing what his kit and setup has done for my fc and the confidence it give the driver in the seat.
03-29-11, 03:35 PM
#1017
Brap Brap Psshh
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So after I did my turbo swap, my power steering rack didn't line up with the pulley so I did my first drift event of the season without the power steering hooked up. I loved it! It felt great and now I have no desire to hook it up. My question is this. If I switch to a Manual Steering Rack, is it going to make it alot tougher than it was??? It wasn't bad at all and to be honest I kinda forgot I didn't have power steering, so I know I could handle it being a little stronger, but I don't want to do it if it's going to be twice as hard to turn the wheel. It already took a few laps to realize I had to be a little more forceful to countersteer quick enough to not spin out.
So in case that was too confusing. How much harder is it to drive with a manual steering rack than power steering not attached to a pulley?
So in case that was too confusing. How much harder is it to drive with a manual steering rack than power steering not attached to a pulley?
03-29-11, 03:42 PM
#1018
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Its the seals and fluid that makes it a PITA to drive on, and looping the lines isnt the correct way to do it either... You can depower the rack by taking out the seals and welding up a collar, im going to do it on the next fc I get my hands on... I know it’s a popular option, since you still have the same ratio (iirc the manual rack is a diff ratio) but its now just been converted to a manual rack… Someone will chime in with some more info..
There is also a thread in the 2nd gen archieve on converting it. And plenty of info on here. So search search search!
There is also a thread in the 2nd gen archieve on converting it. And plenty of info on here. So search search search!
03-29-11, 03:51 PM
#1019
power rack has better ratio lock to lock.
also i just took my lines off. filled the rack with fluid. put bolts in the holes the lines used to go to..
correct or not, its been like that for years. never an issue.
the reason i did this is because my power steering used to over heat, halfway through a handful of runs, powersteering would become intermittent. kind of gets scary, so instead of spending money on PS cooler, i just disabled it.
also i just took my lines off. filled the rack with fluid. put bolts in the holes the lines used to go to..
correct or not, its been like that for years. never an issue.
the reason i did this is because my power steering used to over heat, halfway through a handful of runs, powersteering would become intermittent. kind of gets scary, so instead of spending money on PS cooler, i just disabled it.
03-29-11, 04:42 PM
#1020
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Its the seals and fluid that makes it a PITA to drive on, and looping the lines isnt the correct way to do it either... You can depower the rack by taking out the seals and welding up a collar, im going to do it on the next fc I get my hands on... I know it’s a popular option, since you still have the same ratio (iirc the manual rack is a diff ratio) but its now just been converted to a manual rack… Someone will chime in with some more info..
There is also a thread in the 2nd gen archieve on converting it. And plenty of info on here. So search search search!
There is also a thread in the 2nd gen archieve on converting it. And plenty of info on here. So search search search!
03-29-11, 07:10 PM
#1022
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Your now having to push the seals and the fluid around with no help from the power steering.. if your like me (5'11" 145 lbs, skinny bastard) you need all the help you can get with no PS...
does it feel the same? just differnt ratio? and do you have stock knuckles or modded ones?
edit:
heres the link that i was talking about.. but the forum is down..
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
edit:
heres the link that i was talking about.. but the forum is down..
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
Last edited by blindboxx2334; 03-29-11 at 07:16 PM.
03-29-11, 08:47 PM
#1024
lol i wouldn't ADD PS fluid. thats what makes it more stiff. i chased all the fluid out, and sprayed lithium grease inside, and turned it lock to lock about 60 times. i have a rack now that im going to take apart and remove the friction plates.
just lazy. the power rack when all the fluid is chased out feels like a manual rack, althought they make clunking sounds (obviously) when theres no fluid in them. it's just a small rx7. i weigh like 130, and am not buff at all and it doesnt affect me. however the first event you do in a little bit you'll be sore as hell if you dont work out.
just lazy. the power rack when all the fluid is chased out feels like a manual rack, althought they make clunking sounds (obviously) when theres no fluid in them. it's just a small rx7. i weigh like 130, and am not buff at all and it doesnt affect me. however the first event you do in a little bit you'll be sore as hell if you dont work out.