The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
01-06-11, 11:42 AM
#804
Brap Brap Psshh
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Is there a way to do this? Just for the rear?
01-06-11, 04:40 PM
#805
Brap Brap Psshh
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Sorry, like running longer studs, with no spacers.
I'm asking if there is a way for me to get some 20mm spacers for the rear tires. Only for when I run my Turbo/Vert wheels. And then be able to take off the spacers for when I wanna put on my Works, since they are 2.5 inches wider. But with extra long studs, my lug nuts wouldn't tighten without the spacer, yeah?
edit: and be able to do this with ease. I don't wanna have to take apart my brakes every time I wanna switch wheels. I just wanna be able to take off my 9" wheels. Throw on the 20mm spacer, throw on my drift spares 6.5" wheels. And do some runs. Then take off the wheels, take off the spacers, and put my 9" wheels back on. Hope this all makes sense, lol.
I'm asking if there is a way for me to get some 20mm spacers for the rear tires. Only for when I run my Turbo/Vert wheels. And then be able to take off the spacers for when I wanna put on my Works, since they are 2.5 inches wider. But with extra long studs, my lug nuts wouldn't tighten without the spacer, yeah?
edit: and be able to do this with ease. I don't wanna have to take apart my brakes every time I wanna switch wheels. I just wanna be able to take off my 9" wheels. Throw on the 20mm spacer, throw on my drift spares 6.5" wheels. And do some runs. Then take off the wheels, take off the spacers, and put my 9" wheels back on. Hope this all makes sense, lol.
01-06-11, 11:09 PM
#810
\\TRASHTALK//
did some **** today... finished the inlet/outlet on the radiator, and cut the piping for the turbo
... ******* contaminated aluminum does not TIG very well, but its solid so what the hell
i also made custom radiator hoses from auto zone... only until i can afford the -10 AN for the inlet/outlet and for the water housing and neck... ******* are like $100 a piece
... ******* contaminated aluminum does not TIG very well, but its solid so what the hell
i also made custom radiator hoses from auto zone... only until i can afford the -10 AN for the inlet/outlet and for the water housing and neck... ******* are like $100 a piece
01-07-11, 02:58 AM
#812
If the outside is splined and they are OPEN ENDED, yes.
If the inside is splined (obvious open ended) i'd advise against. I've seen nogs break and strip those styles out.
Justin, the works>TE's. Good call. Plz, plz test fit those ******* on the fd....just for funz!
Buckey, i roll the dice and slide about with my gas gauge on E alot. THe few times it has died out on me (the car) I almost died. 330 wheel+a shitload of camber, even with heims and pillowballs=bad when you have no power to your pump.... Not impossible with a manual rack but i can sort of sympathize with you. I want to up to a 360 so i can drive with my knee again.
If the inside is splined (obvious open ended) i'd advise against. I've seen nogs break and strip those styles out.
Justin, the works>TE's. Good call. Plz, plz test fit those ******* on the fd....just for funz!
Buckey, i roll the dice and slide about with my gas gauge on E alot. THe few times it has died out on me (the car) I almost died. 330 wheel+a shitload of camber, even with heims and pillowballs=bad when you have no power to your pump.... Not impossible with a manual rack but i can sort of sympathize with you. I want to up to a 360 so i can drive with my knee again.
01-07-11, 01:16 PM
#815
^^ Yeah I've got 17x8 wheels with a +35 offset and 10mm spacers. I have secret element inner tie rods. Which prolly adds a few more degrees of steering angle. I am rubbing the inner fenders and control arms. I don't rub on the outside fender at all. I'm running -3 degrees of camber.
01-07-11, 01:42 PM
#816
The inside has always been an issue when you go angle mods.
Changing tires isn't going to do much. You may clear the inside fender a bit but that won't change control arm contact. If anything you may change it to rim on control arm contact instead of rubber tread to control arm contact.
Putting the wheel out farther is the solution usually. Most people I know are going for 11 offset to Plus sizes depending on rim width.
Then wide fenders if needed to cover wheels spaced out.
Changing tires isn't going to do much. You may clear the inside fender a bit but that won't change control arm contact. If anything you may change it to rim on control arm contact instead of rubber tread to control arm contact.
Putting the wheel out farther is the solution usually. Most people I know are going for 11 offset to Plus sizes depending on rim width.
Then wide fenders if needed to cover wheels spaced out.
01-08-11, 03:35 PM
#824
That One Ghetto Guy.
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I've just cut the fender on the top crease where it aligns with the hood, and welded in ~2" of strip sheet metal. Same with the bottom, then simply bend the fender where it aligns with the bumper cover and presto, widebody with OEM lines, for under $50.
The rears get harder, but if you have or can find another car with good rear quarters, cut them out, and do the same thing, just add metal and flare away!
The rears get harder, but if you have or can find another car with good rear quarters, cut them out, and do the same thing, just add metal and flare away!
01-08-11, 04:14 PM
#825
I've just cut the fender on the top crease where it aligns with the hood, and welded in ~2" of strip sheet metal. Same with the bottom, then simply bend the fender where it aligns with the bumper cover and presto, widebody with OEM lines, for under $50.
The rears get harder, but if you have or can find another car with good rear quarters, cut them out, and do the same thing, just add metal and flare away!
The rears get harder, but if you have or can find another car with good rear quarters, cut them out, and do the same thing, just add metal and flare away!