The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
11-09-10, 09:55 AM
#601
i shredded all the teeth off an na diff ring gear... twice..
na **** is weak when you start to get aggressive.
also +1 to start with turbo car. my 80k mile chassis na to turbo never worked as well as my 210k mile chassis factory turbo car.
na **** is weak when you start to get aggressive.
also +1 to start with turbo car. my 80k mile chassis na to turbo never worked as well as my 210k mile chassis factory turbo car.
11-09-10, 10:06 PM
#603
Sideways is the only way
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^are you talking about the na>t2 rear end shaft mazdatrix has? if you're putting the t2 rear end in then you might as well snag a used t2 tranny too, it bolts up to the na engine and is tougher. then you can use the regular t2 shaft and with the tranny and the shaft, you wouldn't be spending that much more then the mazdatrix shaft. its just more work but worth it if you're on your way to a turbo swap anyway.
11-10-10, 01:58 AM
#604
^are you talking about the na>t2 rear end shaft mazdatrix has? if you're putting the t2 rear end in then you might as well snag a used t2 tranny too, it bolts up to the na engine and is tougher. then you can use the regular t2 shaft and with the tranny and the shaft, you wouldn't be spending that much more then the mazdatrix shaft. its just more work but worth it if you're on your way to a turbo swap anyway.
11-10-10, 05:58 AM
#605
and starter. plus your reverse lights wont work due to the NA harness being shorter (not that you need them, just saying)
the $400 aluminum TII driveshaft looks legit from mazdatrix. used ones are hard to find. you usually pay between $100-$200 for a used TII driveshaft if you can find one, and then youre chancing if it has good Ujoints or not... you'd be surprised how many times you ask "did it clunk, rattle, vibrate, make any weird sounds, or feel weird" and people will be like "nah man, it was fine" then you throw it in, and your car is a ******* vibrator when you shift gears..... super annoying. however you will luck out and find a good used one from time to time.
the weight loss, and replaceable ujoints on the mazdatrix one would make me pick one up to be over it if i did it all again.
the $400 aluminum TII driveshaft looks legit from mazdatrix. used ones are hard to find. you usually pay between $100-$200 for a used TII driveshaft if you can find one, and then youre chancing if it has good Ujoints or not... you'd be surprised how many times you ask "did it clunk, rattle, vibrate, make any weird sounds, or feel weird" and people will be like "nah man, it was fine" then you throw it in, and your car is a ******* vibrator when you shift gears..... super annoying. however you will luck out and find a good used one from time to time.
the weight loss, and replaceable ujoints on the mazdatrix one would make me pick one up to be over it if i did it all again.
11-10-10, 04:26 PM
#608
Sideways is the only way
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and starter. plus your reverse lights wont work due to the NA harness being shorter (not that you need them, just saying)
the $400 aluminum TII driveshaft looks legit from mazdatrix. used ones are hard to find. you usually pay between $100-$200 for a used TII driveshaft if you can find one, and then youre chancing if it has good Ujoints or not... you'd be surprised how many times you ask "did it clunk, rattle, vibrate, make any weird sounds, or feel weird" and people will be like "nah man, it was fine" then you throw it in, and your car is a ******* vibrator when you shift gears..... super annoying. however you will luck out and find a good used one from time to time.
the weight loss, and replaceable ujoints on the mazdatrix one would make me pick one up to be over it if i did it all again.
the $400 aluminum TII driveshaft looks legit from mazdatrix. used ones are hard to find. you usually pay between $100-$200 for a used TII driveshaft if you can find one, and then youre chancing if it has good Ujoints or not... you'd be surprised how many times you ask "did it clunk, rattle, vibrate, make any weird sounds, or feel weird" and people will be like "nah man, it was fine" then you throw it in, and your car is a ******* vibrator when you shift gears..... super annoying. however you will luck out and find a good used one from time to time.
the weight loss, and replaceable ujoints on the mazdatrix one would make me pick one up to be over it if i did it all again.
11-16-10, 06:33 PM
#610
\\TRASHTALK//
Just got this ***** back
S5 with Very Large Street port in the irons, the housings look to be ported a good amount too.
Its pinned with 4 extra dowel pins
it has some sick seals too
was told that it would hold 30+ psi with all the **** it has done
still dressing it up and ****... i have a to4e for it so ill make 350-400hp
S5 with Very Large Street port in the irons, the housings look to be ported a good amount too.
Its pinned with 4 extra dowel pins
it has some sick seals too
was told that it would hold 30+ psi with all the **** it has done
still dressing it up and ****... i have a to4e for it so ill make 350-400hp
11-16-10, 09:41 PM
#613
\\TRASHTALK//
11-16-10, 10:19 PM
#615
HKS obsessed
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Just got this ***** back
S5 with Very Large Street port in the irons, the housings look to be ported a good amount too.
Its pinned with 4 extra dowel pins
it has some sick seals too
was told that it would hold 30+ psi with all the **** it has done
still dressing it up and ****... i have a to4e for it so ill make 350-400hp
S5 with Very Large Street port in the irons, the housings look to be ported a good amount too.
Its pinned with 4 extra dowel pins
it has some sick seals too
was told that it would hold 30+ psi with all the **** it has done
still dressing it up and ****... i have a to4e for it so ill make 350-400hp
11-16-10, 10:33 PM
#616
\\TRASHTALK//
well its been machined to add more dowel pin sleeves (4) and has AEL seals (thats what i was told)... supposed to be bulletproof, which i dont doubt...
i asked him to build a badass motor ... apparently thats what he did
i asked him to build a badass motor ... apparently thats what he did
11-25-10, 08:14 AM
#620
Going to try Na-t on my daily vert , will let you guys know how it goes. Im using my stock turbo from my gold car, and going to have vacuum straight to the wastegate, so it should boost about 5-7psi. Ive already figuredout how to setup the oil lines and coolant lines. I have a safc setup, so a tune will be done too.
weeeeeeeeee
weeeeeeeeee
12-01-10, 10:49 PM
#624
Need Setup help....
What camber and tire pressures are people running?
My car was originally set up for road racing. I have -2.5 degrees of camber in the front and I think -2 degrees in the back (just from eyeballing it) My rear tire pressure is 45 psi and my front is 35psi. I'm using Nexen N3000 on 17x8 front and back.
My main problem right now is that after I break traction in the rear end the front wont grip up. With the front wheels full lock to the right it will still grind along straight (or whatever direction it was going before I started sliding) So When I initiate a drift I'll slide, but have no control of where I'm going. I feel the answer is in tire pressure and camber adjustment.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance.
What camber and tire pressures are people running?
My car was originally set up for road racing. I have -2.5 degrees of camber in the front and I think -2 degrees in the back (just from eyeballing it) My rear tire pressure is 45 psi and my front is 35psi. I'm using Nexen N3000 on 17x8 front and back.
My main problem right now is that after I break traction in the rear end the front wont grip up. With the front wheels full lock to the right it will still grind along straight (or whatever direction it was going before I started sliding) So When I initiate a drift I'll slide, but have no control of where I'm going. I feel the answer is in tire pressure and camber adjustment.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance.