i would have welded the diff in my fd but i didnt know if you could do that so i bought a "real" one but i would go with welded all day long even though i pretty much could afford it either way. i thought about getting a welded 2nd gen diff but i would rather spend the 800 than do the work putting in a different diff thats the only reason i ever bought an lsd.

 

What exactly are you trying to do? Like, how are you installing the diff? The whole pumpkin and everything or are you just swapping the guts?

Unless the diff came out of a t2, it should fit.

Otherwise you're doing something wrong. It seriously sounds to me like you're using a t2 diff. In which case, i'd:

A. Weld an open diff you KNOW fits
B. Sell your car because you are a retard
C. Facepalm
D. Make it fit. Use a file and some man power.
E. Drop the full pumpkin on your friend. Use a second story window for extra points.


No. Not even close. You have partial lock on decel. Hence the .5 in 1.5. A good 2 way is as close is you can get.

 

You laugh now, but half of them cannot see that post because I am on their ignore list, and the other half is on mine. They do not know about my super secret weapon though. That thing called intelligence, it works quite well when you have a lil.

 

i managed to get the tools to switch the plates that connect to the driveshaft so ill try to put it in tomorrow and let you know what happens.

 

word. Hope you get it sorted man.

Although if your friend did give you a t2 diff by accident somehow, you should drop it on him from a second story window. A point and 'Nelson laugh' is mandatory.

 

The diff probably doesn't work because base models have different size diffs/axles than gxl/gtu if I remember correctly. I could be wrong but that seems to be what I remember being the difference.
Personal opinion factory clutch type from an S4 is better than welded. At anything less than pro level it does the job just fine. If it's not working too well change the fluid out and put some lsd additive in it but just becuase it's 20 years old doesn't mean it won't work. I daily drove and drifted my 88 GTU for a full year and like 15 drift events on the stock diff, never changed the fluid in it, chassis/diff had 230k miles and it worked just fine. I'm not against welded diffs (i've had a few too, not just speculating), but when you can buy a factory clutch type lsd from another FC that bolts in for like 50-100 bucks there is no point in welding.

 

Sounds lame sauce....

I took my diff out of the subframe finally today. It snowed last night and it was ******* cold but i got tired of putting it off and got it done. It probably took 30 minutes to remove the diff from the subframe and half shafts. I got all the casing bolts out and broke the seal. My hands got numb and i ran out of daylight so i didn't have a chance to hammer the stub shafts out. I'll to it tomorrow. If i had a digital camera (need to get one since i told my gf to gtfo), i would have done a write up. Dk did a good job anyway. Gotta run to advanced auto and get some purple power to soak the guts in and hopefully next week i'll get it done. It's going to be pretty solid. Welding the gears to whatever i can and then welding in 2 plate gussets like the pbm welded jawn. Hopefully it'll get to play with it in the next 3 weeks or so. Waiting to hear back about wheels and coilovers and i still have to get tags put on the car.

 

How come I read anything in the drifting section of this site, their are people that think drifting is like a race. Isn't it suppose to be fun, and non-competitive? Why would one tell someone else to leave a passion because his/her lsd is welded, or a worn out stock? Were is the friendship

 

^^^ word. But i did get the welded in. i gott bolt the mount today i didnt have a good enough jack to fit and line up the dif with the mount quite enough to get the studs in. but today i will so its knocking a bit right now. but i gotta say welded is the way to go. drove my friends s4 with the turbo 2 lsd in it. its not bad by anymeans but the click pop scoot of the welded also is not bad. i almost like it haha. but welded turned out great thanks for the info/support i got from most of you. as far as fcdrifter anime **** loving self he can have fun talking when no one is listening (as he already is) haha.

 

I found running thickkk gear oil is the best in awelded.. Use thicker than 80 90

 

Hm the only think Ican think of is the turbo 2 driver shafts holes are further apart than the Na driveshafts.. Youcan modd the t2 driveshaft extend the holes to match the na diff..

 

Glad to hear it. Mine is at the shop right now, yet to be welded. Haven't had time lately and while installing my jic's i found my lower ball joints and brake lines are shot. More money to shell out. Atleast i'm picking up my new wheels and tires tuesday.

FYI you can rent transmission jacks from advanced, vatozone, etc...... You pay a deposit and they give it back when you return it. I think it's $160. I'm borrowing one from a friend. Gotta put the rear end back on my parts car so i can get it the f-ck out of my driveway and make some cash and i also have to drop the rear out of my project so i can slap the welded in. It's so much easier with the subframe out.


DK, what gear oil brand do you recommend and would some diff additive hurt/help? I only ask b/c you've been running welded forever.

 

wouldn't a welded diff mimic a full lock or more like a 2 way than anything right? iv had so many friends and relatives with welded diffs but i have never had the need for one for any of my own vehicles which always had a 1 or 1.5 way LSD.

Thinking about it, a welded diff would be best for drifting as the 2 wheels would always be locked in position and the spin rate would more likely be equal. Is that right?

 

really, is that a serious question?

 

i dont remmeber the brand name. I got it at kragen,and its the stuff in the black bottle with checker flags.. Its like the cheapest gear oil they sell lol. damn I hate the smell of gear oil...
Il ask my friend what oil he is using. His welded is still going 4 years strong dd.

 

Yes, gear oil does stink.

Get back to me on that. Thanks.

 

you should probably replace the bearings when you weld it.. but either way thick is the way to go as far as oil. if you need something off the shelf, i think that valvoline heavy duty 140w or 150w something or other worked pretty well.. it's for heavy duty/truck apps. but it seemed to promote longevity and quiet it down a little bit.

as far as being the best for drifting, i wouldn't say so. the thing is 1 - it's cheap and 2 - its consistant. a welded diff is never going to surprise anybody. it's locked up 100% and that's that. always and forever. sure it sucks for parallel parking and such, and "real" diffs allow for better, earlier entries. but welded diffs are good for learning, and if someone is building a drift car for the first time, it's stupid to buy a "real" diff flat out, cause they're expensive, and it's not going to make you any better to start out with. might as well save money and get practice.

 

Come on guy, the only diffs that are 2k + are like OS Giken and ATS deftforce, and even then they sell for less.

You can get a KAAZ or cusco for like $900....

Quit being cheap.

 

^^^ Thank you. And with being able to spend 50 bucks on another factory diff that works to hold you over I don't see it. I have owned cars and tracked/daily driven them with welded diff's. It's ok for a while but a real diff is noticeably nicer to me. But this is just an opinion thread, so hope you what you choose works well for you.

 

What?

1. There should be no need to replace the bearings if you protect them from weld spatter by covering them.

I mean, if they're horribly f-ed when you pull them out of the pumpkin, that's one thing.....


2. It's better to start out with a welded than a "real" diff? No. It isn't. If you have the money, spend it on a real diff.

 

so.... i am no longer usinga wleded diff i upgraded.... full Al spool. shiping weight was 1.7 lbs.

 

A welded diff is a love hate relationship. You love ppl's faces when they are trying to figure out why your tires are chirping when your doing 5mph making a right turn, but you hate how annoying it is.. you love how you can slide no matter wat condition and wherever, but you hate not having traction for serious driving.. sliding at 80mph on the turnpike gets scary when your on the way home from a bar and its wet and cant see and wasnt really expecting it.. lol fun after u realized you had control but you get the point..
pretty much its an opinion with trial and error..

 

lol..all Ican say from experience lately due to raining conditions.. welded+bald wire showing rear tires+heavy rain on freeway=**** bricks..

 

theres a good diy in project car this mounth

 

"month"? lol and I have a fresh kaaz 1.5 way rebuilt by peter at defined auto. 0 miles on the rebuild. $550+shipping. bought this from peter then turned around and bought derick king's cusco the next week. the diff is for n/a housing. pm me if anybodys interested.