Oem lsd v.s. Welded
#1
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*******Z OF THE INDUSTRY****
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From: klamath falls, Oregon
Oem lsd v.s. Welded
alright so i know this is a never ending battle between lsd and welded diff. and obviously if you have $2k to spend on a REAL lsd than thats the way to go. but im hearing more opinions saying if the diff is welded right a welded diff will last just as long or longer than an oem lsd and provide better for drifting.... opinions?
like i said this is not between lsd and welded diff but STOCK lsd and welded diff.
like i said this is not between lsd and welded diff but STOCK lsd and welded diff.
#2
stock s4 lsd is burnt out by now. its over 20 years old. welding it is cheaper than replacing the clutch pads in the s4 and a cup of 2 week old **** is worth more than an s5 lsd.
#5
I do have the money. I'm welding my bitch up soon. I fought with it for a couple of months and the more time i spend on the drifting forums, seeing people coping with daily driving on one, why not?
A 2 way is pretty much the same thing. Except for creaks, pops and groans on low speed turns, your tires chirp. **** it. Dont be a bitch and weld it. You're elite. It says so in your screen name.
Just heat the spider gears up with a torch before you weld them. dkwasherx did a nice writeup on welding your diff. I suggest you read it.
A 2 way is pretty much the same thing. Except for creaks, pops and groans on low speed turns, your tires chirp. **** it. Dont be a bitch and weld it. You're elite. It says so in your screen name.
Just heat the spider gears up with a torch before you weld them. dkwasherx did a nice writeup on welding your diff. I suggest you read it.
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#9
As far as welded, check what i found on the gt factory/poweredbymax page.
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?8
That **** looks diesel!
P.S. VLSD for the lose.
Clutch, helical (helical/torsen lsd's are ONE WAY ONLY, keep that in mind), and welded are your best bets if you want to play. I say you quit being a bitch and weld your diff.
Anyone with a 4 lug base and "drifting=living" in their sig should have already welded it. If you dont like it, buy another open diff for almost nothing..... You could probably trade a member on here a carton of cigarettes for one.
#10
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*******Z OF THE INDUSTRY****
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From: klamath falls, Oregon
well i have two diffs hopefully 3 soon i think im buying a full s4 from a friend. as for the drifting = living thing i may not have a welded diff but i have been driving at every southern oregon event this year and i love it. i am not asking what i should use in this thread anyways i just wanted to know how people feel about the two compared. thanks for posting tho.
#11
VLSD: Work fine....until that snot fluid heats up past the point where it doesn't grab anymore and disengages mid drift. Alot of guys on here will say they are ok. Alot of guys on the 240 forums use them too. Either vlsd silvia or j30 diffs. Engagement isn't the smoothest or the most consistent. Reliability is crap and service is non existant. When they go/overheat....they act just like an open diff and there's no fixing that. You pay any more than $75 for one of these you should pull your dick from your pants. Now drop the diff casing on it because you're a retard.
Clutch type: Doesn't work at all most likely. It's 20 years old. Mine doesn't work. It acts just like an open diff. Expect to pay $500 rebuilding it. I haven't drifted mine with it operational yet so i couldn't tell you. I'm not even sure if it's a 1 way clutch type or a 1.5 way. You can shim them to raise the initial torque and add thicker clutchplates from mazdatrix for more bite. I'd run mine if i wasn't cheap. Alot of guys on here highly recommend it that have theirs still working.
Welded: I've spoken to a local bunch of low budget 240 drifters RECENTLY that use welded diffs and street on them. As long as you drive with some ******* sense, they're fine. As long as you have them welded right, they wont grenade. The teeth on your ring gear will go before the ghetto spool gives out. They make it so easy to drift and maintain a drift because your wheels are 100 percent locked. There's no worrying about it disengaging mid-drift at the top of third gear. People do say they produce some understeer. Some barely notice it. Just induce oversteer with the right pedal, make sure you have an alignment and run tires with grip.
Ask dkwasheredx about his welded diff. Ask Mark Brant (not sure what his sn on here is but he's got a bright green fc) about his. He went from a stock diff to a shimmed, full-lock diff and then to a welded. Seriously. PM them now and get some feedback. Alot of the negative buzz from a welded comes from people who have never had one. They're just spouting off speculations and **** that happens from driver/installer error.
Do some research. Google is your friend. That should help you weigh the pros and cons of each type and help you make an educated decision based on how you want to drive your car and how you want your car to behave.
50 percent of the people that veiw/post in the drifting forum are going to say you're a dumbass, dont weld your diff.
45 pecent dont care enough to post.
5 percent are probably fapping to redtube. "Welded ****? What?"
BTW, think of how much you'd improve with some type of differential. Do something soon. As soon as you get something decent in that rear casing you'll actually be able to hold a slide instead of one wheel fire understeer followed by snap oversteer.
Watch the drift bible. Watch it again and again and again and again until you understand how drifting works. Free on youtube.
Clutch type: Doesn't work at all most likely. It's 20 years old. Mine doesn't work. It acts just like an open diff. Expect to pay $500 rebuilding it. I haven't drifted mine with it operational yet so i couldn't tell you. I'm not even sure if it's a 1 way clutch type or a 1.5 way. You can shim them to raise the initial torque and add thicker clutchplates from mazdatrix for more bite. I'd run mine if i wasn't cheap. Alot of guys on here highly recommend it that have theirs still working.
Welded: I've spoken to a local bunch of low budget 240 drifters RECENTLY that use welded diffs and street on them. As long as you drive with some ******* sense, they're fine. As long as you have them welded right, they wont grenade. The teeth on your ring gear will go before the ghetto spool gives out. They make it so easy to drift and maintain a drift because your wheels are 100 percent locked. There's no worrying about it disengaging mid-drift at the top of third gear. People do say they produce some understeer. Some barely notice it. Just induce oversteer with the right pedal, make sure you have an alignment and run tires with grip.
Ask dkwasheredx about his welded diff. Ask Mark Brant (not sure what his sn on here is but he's got a bright green fc) about his. He went from a stock diff to a shimmed, full-lock diff and then to a welded. Seriously. PM them now and get some feedback. Alot of the negative buzz from a welded comes from people who have never had one. They're just spouting off speculations and **** that happens from driver/installer error.
Do some research. Google is your friend. That should help you weigh the pros and cons of each type and help you make an educated decision based on how you want to drive your car and how you want your car to behave.
50 percent of the people that veiw/post in the drifting forum are going to say you're a dumbass, dont weld your diff.
45 pecent dont care enough to post.
5 percent are probably fapping to redtube. "Welded ****? What?"
BTW, think of how much you'd improve with some type of differential. Do something soon. As soon as you get something decent in that rear casing you'll actually be able to hold a slide instead of one wheel fire understeer followed by snap oversteer.
Watch the drift bible. Watch it again and again and again and again until you understand how drifting works. Free on youtube.
#14
I'm not going to write a long reply, but clutch type over welded anyway. Plus side to this is you can actually drive fast on the track without crappy traction in the back. You can do more than just a "240" drift. That's what I think of when I hear welded lol.
#15
i will say for budget racers welded works well... just like offroading they are effective and cheap. most of the rx7 guys seem a little nicer equipted than the 240 guys (generally) on the low end.
anyways i love my 2 way. but would really raqther have a 1 or 1.5... 2 you mide aqs well have a welded diff... not a lot to rebuild. itf you plan on auto x or anythign other than fdrift welded aint great. drift only and cheap welded rules.
anyways i love my 2 way. but would really raqther have a 1 or 1.5... 2 you mide aqs well have a welded diff... not a lot to rebuild. itf you plan on auto x or anythign other than fdrift welded aint great. drift only and cheap welded rules.
#17
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*******Z OF THE INDUSTRY****
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: klamath falls, Oregon
well i got a welded from a buddy today. im pretty sure im getting a slightly wrecked s5 turbo 2 parts car full motor 5 lug conver. ecu wiring harness everything i need. if that works out i may try out the lsd it comes with and just have my own opinion about it. =)
#19
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*******Z OF THE INDUSTRY****
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From: klamath falls, Oregon
well i guess a diff is one thing i may not have to change eh? lol haha i keep hearing bad things about viscous lsds so i may stick with welded ill put it in tomorrow and let you know my verdict.
#21
#23
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*******Z OF THE INDUSTRY****
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From: klamath falls, Oregon
ok got a welded from my friend which used to be on an 87 non turbo rx7 which is what mine is and it doesnt fit yet again.what is going on? the driveshaft just doesnt fit the plate the holes dont line up.
#24
thaha! weld it! You probably wanna learn drifting and while saving up for a real diff, a welded one works good and you know the feel when you finally go for a real diff. I got 1.5way kaaz and i think thats almoste like welded.
EDIT: ahh you finally got a welded one =P I cant answere why it doesnt fit though...
EDIT: ahh you finally got a welded one =P I cant answere why it doesnt fit though...