FC Hydro ebrake setups *pics please*
#2
4th string e-armchair QB
iTrader: (11)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
My friend built his own for a DSM, they're not crazy complicated. I'm not sure how much a whole assembly is, but you can consider making one yourself for probably a lot less. I'll get details off him...
#3
It would take a fair amount of time to fabricate one -I certainly could -but I'm not going to.
#7
for what it takes to make one, you're way further ahead just buying one hahaha. i wouldnt **** with one for $160... lol thats too cheap.
if you do it, be baller, and run separate rear calipers. (headache, but so is running a hydro when stock is perfect)
if you do it, be baller, and run separate rear calipers. (headache, but so is running a hydro when stock is perfect)
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#8
Never been able to get my stock to grab the way it should -everything is new (calipers, cable, pads and rotors) and it still blows.
In my DD is I yank it they ******* lock.
How are people plumping it with stock brakes?
#9
stock brakes do work.. Its usually the ebrake cable that gets "stretched" overtime.
I got the godspeed one from www.sonicmotor.com and it does come in the down position, so I modified it to be upright,
I got the godspeed one from www.sonicmotor.com and it does come in the down position, so I modified it to be upright,
#11
dont do it!!! just buy baller rear pads, and you'll love it. observe the ebrake drops, that the judges will never see:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZTHL...er_profilepage
hydro setups lock up too easily, showing a correction each time you use it. (plus looks really gay everytime the back wheels lock mid drift)
i'd just say buy $100 rear pads, and adjust it to your liking (really simple with the flat head screw/barrel adjuster at the handle)
if you make it to an FD Pro-Am event, you won't be allowed to drive unless you have seperate rear calipers plumbed directly to the handbrake only.... plus if it fails youre screwed trying to source another one.... the more simplistic the setup, the more you'll be on the track, and not in the pits, or outside sourcing parts stressing/wasting money traveling to events to be sidelined by mechanical failures.
JTP did it with the stock ebrake.... look at him now. spend the $300 + dollars on the hydro setup on tires, or an event or something... trust me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZTHL...er_profilepage
hydro setups lock up too easily, showing a correction each time you use it. (plus looks really gay everytime the back wheels lock mid drift)
i'd just say buy $100 rear pads, and adjust it to your liking (really simple with the flat head screw/barrel adjuster at the handle)
if you make it to an FD Pro-Am event, you won't be allowed to drive unless you have seperate rear calipers plumbed directly to the handbrake only.... plus if it fails youre screwed trying to source another one.... the more simplistic the setup, the more you'll be on the track, and not in the pits, or outside sourcing parts stressing/wasting money traveling to events to be sidelined by mechanical failures.
JTP did it with the stock ebrake.... look at him now. spend the $300 + dollars on the hydro setup on tires, or an event or something... trust me.
#12
^^^ too late it showed up today... just sat it in place -need to mountit and I'm thinking I'm going to run 2 more small wilwood calipers in the back mounted on custom brackets. Would people be interested in a Hydo package with caliper and brackets? seems a shame to only do 1 set of brackets.
FWIW I am going to try better pads before I go nuts with the hydro JTP gave me a PN to use
FWIW I am going to try better pads before I go nuts with the hydro JTP gave me a PN to use
#13
it does look cool, i won't lie. lol not saying it's terrible. it will work. it will be consistent. and bitches will love the added bling.
maybe i'm just broke/lazy. lol i'd rather have 12way strobes than functioning parts on my car.
i just threw on my friends JIC coilovers, and am really eager to see how much better my car feels after running ebay shitty coilovers all year without camber adjustment.
maybe i'm just broke/lazy. lol i'd rather have 12way strobes than functioning parts on my car.
i just threw on my friends JIC coilovers, and am really eager to see how much better my car feels after running ebay shitty coilovers all year without camber adjustment.
#14
it does look cool, i won't lie. lol not saying it's terrible. it will work. it will be consistent. and bitches will love the added bling.
maybe i'm just broke/lazy. lol i'd rather have 12way strobes than functioning parts on my car.
i just threw on my friends JIC coilovers, and am really eager to see how much better my car feels after running ebay shitty coilovers all year without camber adjustment.
maybe i'm just broke/lazy. lol i'd rather have 12way strobes than functioning parts on my car.
i just threw on my friends JIC coilovers, and am really eager to see how much better my car feels after running ebay shitty coilovers all year without camber adjustment.
#15
yeah mate i would be interested in the brackets for the calipers if they could ship it to australia
^^^ too late it showed up today... just sat it in place -need to mountit and I'm thinking I'm going to run 2 more small wilwood calipers in the back mounted on custom brackets. Would people be interested in a Hydo package with caliper and brackets? seems a shame to only do 1 set of brackets.
FWIW I am going to try better pads before I go nuts with the hydro JTP gave me a PN to use
FWIW I am going to try better pads before I go nuts with the hydro JTP gave me a PN to use
#16
$140 each on Summitracing.com
Product Specifications
Rotor Compatibility
Rotor Width(In): 1
Maximum Rotor Width(In): 1.04
Minimum Rotor Width(In): 0.94
Maximum Rotor Diameter(In): 13.06
Minimum Rotor Diameter(In): 10
Brake Pad Specifications
Brake Pad Type 1: 7112
Brake Pad Type 2:
Brake Pad Type 3:
Total Pad Area (in²): 6.36
Total Pad Volume (in³): 2.1
Pad Dimensions & Part Numbers Click To Enlarge
Piston Specifications
Piston 1 Bore(In): 1.75
Piston 2 Bore(In): 1.75
Piston 3 Bore(In):
Piston 4 Bore(In):
Total Piston Area (in²): 4.80
Mounting Specifications
Mount Type: Lug
Mount Side: Universal
Mount Center(In): 5.25
Mount Hole Size(In): 0.39
Mount Height(In): 2.03
For brackets I'm going to take some measurements and see what will work best -talked to JTP regarding this as well -if I get too busy I'll just have him build a set of brackets.
#18
hahaha I would not say it's "baller" -I mean I have less money into it than anyone you see driving a stock 350z or an FD -I just chose a different path and have made the car "purpose built".
#19
You have my interest on the brackets.
Quick question though, why does everyone use a pull handle? It seems to me that a push handle would be easier to use for the driver as you are pushing yourself into the seat rather than pulling yourself from it. It would also seem the driver could have quicker reaction because his hand doesn't have reach out, grip the handle and reverse direction to engage. A push handle could be activated during the same movement to reach out for it.
Quick question though, why does everyone use a pull handle? It seems to me that a push handle would be easier to use for the driver as you are pushing yourself into the seat rather than pulling yourself from it. It would also seem the driver could have quicker reaction because his hand doesn't have reach out, grip the handle and reverse direction to engage. A push handle could be activated during the same movement to reach out for it.
#20
You have my interest on the brackets.
Quick question though, why does everyone use a pull handle? It seems to me that a push handle would be easier to use for the driver as you are pushing yourself into the seat rather than pulling yourself from it. It would also seem the driver could have quicker reaction because his hand doesn't have reach out, grip the handle and reverse direction to engage. A push handle could be activated during the same movement to reach out for it.
Quick question though, why does everyone use a pull handle? It seems to me that a push handle would be easier to use for the driver as you are pushing yourself into the seat rather than pulling yourself from it. It would also seem the driver could have quicker reaction because his hand doesn't have reach out, grip the handle and reverse direction to engage. A push handle could be activated during the same movement to reach out for it.
honestly thats another reason why ive kept my stock one... i know where its at at all times, and i know how it works eachtime. having a hydro would feel like im going out of my way to use it, so to speak...
#21
FASHIONNNN SHOWWWWW!
#24
I have tried everything -new cable-pads-rotors-calipers and the stock brake sucks ***... just does not really grab as well as I would like it to.
#25