hey guise
whats goin on in this thread

 

That doesn't do anything.

That's not how roll center works.

Next topic.

 

next topic..
i have to replace antifreeze about every 4 or days of driving it... no leaks.. could it be burning fluid?? also once i rev past 38 or 4000 it makes an odd noise.. dont know if its related or what but just throwin it out there.

 

coolant seals are dead.

 

there are no wet spots in the engine bay or on the ground.. how does the fluid disappear if the seals are bad?

 

heat?

 

Coolant seals inside the inside, motor is drinking the water turning it lightly into steam. aka your motors fucked.

 

Install pics plz!

 

The little seals in your motor drink it... they are miniature seals, and they do thirst for coolant.

Just make sure that when you rebuild your motor, the seals don't get away.

They are hard to catch.

 

****. so i gotta rebuild it pretty much to fix it??..
anyone know of any good rotary shops around middle tenn. then?

 

If you blew your coolant seals you might want to tear that thing down asap and spend roughly $500 rebuilding it given your housings/irons aren't trash and you can reause most of your hard seals. Or just drive it till it blows..... **** it.

Atkins rotary dvd set.

Get them all. I has. They'll put you to sleep if you expect some action packed funny video. It's like a ******* video for tech school or something. Take notes. LEARN to rebuild stuff yourself. **** a shop. DIY.

If you need a shop BAD, rotorsports racing rebuild my engine for the previous owner. $2k for basic rebuild, IIRC it's street ported but i'm assuming stock ports because i dont believe 18 year old gay banter. Anywho, rotorsports is located in Kannapolis, NC. Bit of a drive for you. There's also a guy in statesville, goes by "rotary revival" on here the rebuilds these in house. Nice guy. I want to say his name is "kevin". Sold him an engine cheap about 2 years ago and he rebuilt it for like $200 something in parts. All the hard seals were fine. It just needed soft seals and springs.


Later. Let me rebuild my brakes and put my engine back together first. Then i'll worry about putting my seats and aero **** on.... In the mean time, i'll be using one as a gaming chair! Haha.


I'm done editing this post. I've said EVERYTHING that needs to be said.

 

yea i might be able to afford 5 or 6 hundred in a few weeks.. but no where near 2 grand.. im gonna have to get those dvds and a haynes.. but i figured while i had it at a shop i might as well go ahead and get it streetported.. i dont suppose i could do that myself huh?
and for the bumpiness i thought maybe removing the swaybar could help...

 

No, that wont do it "sway bar".

What are your spring rates? Maybe you need stiffer dampers to match your hard springs. My spring rates are perfect for my coilovers and I dont suffer from a bouncy ride or kidney failure from everything being "too" stiff. Invest in better shocks like koni yellows and the problem should be reduced if not eliminated. I'm probably wrong though.....wait for some other ******* to chime in and shut what i said down.

Most of that $2k is labor. You pay a company to do a rebuild for you, you're going to pay, regardless of engine.

I bought a full brake rebuild kit from atkins rotary on ebay last night and noted they had the dvd set for $26, free shipping. Drifting.com has a rotary porting dvd and you can get porting templates from most rotary shops like pineapple, banzai and mazdatrix.

You can do a street port yourself. Just use the search and see what you can dig up on the forum. If you have the whole shebang apart, you might as well port it. Good idea!

Um, iirc, the RA soft seal kit is the ****. I mean, i've heard of people removing them without them getting messed up and reusing them 1 or 2 times! You can't do that with mazdatrix/factory seals.

The haynes is useless for most things. The torque settings are there and most of the engine stuff, they will go over in the dvd and SHOW you what to do step by step without skipping. If you plan on doing the rotary thing for a while, get the dvds, start saving pages from this forum, get the fsm pdf file and buy some tools.

 

You mean Kevin Landers of Rotary Resurrection. You can find him on RotaryCarClub.com

http://rotaryresurrection.com/

 

thanks for all the advice... im just debatin on whether or not to start now... i want to get it taken care of but i just want to keep drivin it.. snow is so fun lol

 

Well. I started disassembly earlier. Got the intake tubing out, fan and shroud, and belts off.. Guess I am starting now eh? So any tips or pointers on what not to **** up on.

 

Yeah, don't take your engine apart with out the parts to put it back together. You really should have pressure tested the coolant system, did the champagne test, inspected your overflow for cracks or checked the water pump weep hole before diving in.

 

well it was bubbling a little bit..

 

i went on atkins site and it only showed one video for 25 bucks..

 

I think it's all one video.

I've said too much already........

Just get the drifting.com dvd's. Rotary rebuild and rotary porting. Pricey but worth it.


Drain your oil before you tear your engine down any further and also drain your coolant.

What do they smell like? What do they look like?

That would help us diagnose better, even though it does sound as though your coolant seals are shitted.





And Turbo II wawa rotor, I screwed up. It was "rotor salvage". Hit him up though.

 

well ive got the fan, nd fan shroud, and radiator out, water pump compressor thing.. alt. intake piping and a few other little pieces.. ive started on getting the wiring undone and they are stubborn pains in the ***.. ive got all of the left main loom undone though(the one that plugs into the injectors.) but i cant get it untangled from under the right side of the motor... theres just one little snag or something keeping me from getting it out. theres just too much in the way to see exactly what it is.. ive got some pictures(dunno if theyll help any) but theyre at my dads house so ill have to post em tomorrow.. anyone know what im talking about?

 

Tangled wires?

Bust out the jack and slide your *** under the car.

It probably is zip tied or bend-clamped to something.

 

It's jacked up now. That last part of the loom is connected to an o2 sensor I think. But that's the only thing holdin it back. It's just gonna be difficult gettin it out.. All the wires Are stiff as ****

 

ok. smoked some hookah and did a little bit more work.. came into a few obstacles along the way. but the current one im kinda stumped on..


i took a few pictures of it from various angles.. its the clip holding the hoses for the fuel rail.. theres a hose on each side..

well ive only gotten both hoses just a little bit past where they started.. and i need to get this clip off..





here is when i pulled my upper intake mani. out.. is that bad for there to be that oily lookin residue around that hole to the left??


picture of all of em.

 

powerwash