hey guise
whats goin on in this thread

That doesn't do anything.

That's not how roll center works.

Next topic.

next topic..
i have to replace antifreeze about every 4 or days of driving it... no leaks.. could it be burning fluid?? also once i rev past 38 or 4000 it makes an odd noise.. dont know if its related or what but just throwin it out there.

coolant seals are dead.

there are no wet spots in the engine bay or on the ground.. how does the fluid disappear if the seals are bad?

heat?

Coolant seals inside the inside, motor is drinking the water turning it lightly into steam. aka your motors fucked.

Install pics plz!

The little seals in your motor drink it... they are miniature seals, and they do thirst for coolant.

Just make sure that when you rebuild your motor, the seals don't get away.

They are hard to catch.

shit. so i gotta rebuild it pretty much to fix it??..
anyone know of any good rotary shops around middle tenn. then?

If you blew your coolant seals you might want to tear that thing down asap and spend roughly $500 rebuilding it given your housings/irons aren't trash and you can reause most of your hard seals. Or just drive it till it blows..... Fuck it.

Atkins rotary dvd set.

Get them all. I has. They'll put you to sleep if you expect some action packed funny video. It's like a fucking video for tech school or something. Take notes. LEARN to rebuild stuff yourself. Fuck a shop. DIY.

If you need a shop BAD, rotorsports racing rebuild my engine for the previous owner. $2k for basic rebuild, IIRC it's street ported but i'm assuming stock ports because i dont believe 18 year old gay banter. Anywho, rotorsports is located in Kannapolis, NC. Bit of a drive for you. There's also a guy in statesville, goes by "rotary revival" on here the rebuilds these in house. Nice guy. I want to say his name is "kevin". Sold him an engine cheap about 2 years ago and he rebuilt it for like $200 something in parts. All the hard seals were fine. It just needed soft seals and springs.


Later. Let me rebuild my brakes and put my engine back together first. Then i'll worry about putting my seats and aero shit on.... In the mean time, i'll be using one as a gaming chair! Haha.


I'm done editing this post. I've said EVERYTHING that needs to be said.

yea i might be able to afford 5 or 6 hundred in a few weeks.. but no where near 2 grand.. im gonna have to get those dvds and a haynes.. but i figured while i had it at a shop i might as well go ahead and get it streetported.. i dont suppose i could do that myself huh?
and for the bumpiness i thought maybe removing the swaybar could help...

No, that wont do it "sway bar".

What are your spring rates? Maybe you need stiffer dampers to match your hard springs. My spring rates are perfect for my coilovers and I dont suffer from a bouncy ride or kidney failure from everything being "too" stiff. Invest in better shocks like koni yellows and the problem should be reduced if not eliminated. I'm probably wrong though.....wait for some other asshole to chime in and shut what i said down.

Most of that $2k is labor. You pay a company to do a rebuild for you, you're going to pay, regardless of engine.

I bought a full brake rebuild kit from atkins rotary on ebay last night and noted they had the dvd set for $26, free shipping. Drifting.com has a rotary porting dvd and you can get porting templates from most rotary shops like pineapple, banzai and mazdatrix.

You can do a street port yourself. Just use the search and see what you can dig up on the forum. If you have the whole shebang apart, you might as well port it. Good idea!

Um, iirc, the RA soft seal kit is the shit. I mean, i've heard of people removing them without them getting messed up and reusing them 1 or 2 times! You can't do that with mazdatrix/factory seals.

The haynes is useless for most things. The torque settings are there and most of the engine stuff, they will go over in the dvd and SHOW you what to do step by step without skipping. If you plan on doing the rotary thing for a while, get the dvds, start saving pages from this forum, get the fsm pdf file and buy some tools.

You mean Kevin Landers of Rotary Resurrection. You can find him on RotaryCarClub.com

http://rotaryresurrection.com/

thanks for all the advice... im just debatin on whether or not to start now... i want to get it taken care of but i just want to keep drivin it.. snow is so fun lol

Well. I started disassembly earlier. Got the intake tubing out, fan and shroud, and belts off.. Guess I am starting now eh? So any tips or pointers on what not to fuck up on.

Yeah, don't take your engine apart with out the parts to put it back together. You really should have pressure tested the coolant system, did the champagne test, inspected your overflow for cracks or checked the water pump weep hole before diving in.

well it was bubbling a little bit..

i went on atkins site and it only showed one video for 25 bucks..

I think it's all one video.

I've said too much already........

Just get the drifting.com dvd's. Rotary rebuild and rotary porting. Pricey but worth it.


Drain your oil before you tear your engine down any further and also drain your coolant.

What do they smell like? What do they look like?

That would help us diagnose better, even though it does sound as though your coolant seals are shitted.





And Turbo II wawa rotor, I screwed up. It was "rotor salvage". Hit him up though.

well ive got the fan, nd fan shroud, and radiator out, water pump compressor thing.. alt. intake piping and a few other little pieces.. ive started on getting the wiring undone and they are stubborn pains in the ass.. ive got all of the left main loom undone though(the one that plugs into the injectors.) but i cant get it untangled from under the right side of the motor... theres just one little snag or something keeping me from getting it out. theres just too much in the way to see exactly what it is.. ive got some pictures(dunno if theyll help any) but theyre at my dads house so ill have to post em tomorrow.. anyone know what im talking about?

Tangled wires?

Bust out the jack and slide your ass under the car.

It probably is zip tied or bend-clamped to something.

It's jacked up now. That last part of the loom is connected to an o2 sensor I think. But that's the only thing holdin it back. It's just gonna be difficult gettin it out.. All the wires Are stiff as shit

ok. smoked some hookah and did a little bit more work.. came into a few obstacles along the way. but the current one im kinda stumped on..

Attachment 721584
i took a few pictures of it from various angles.. its the clip holding the hoses for the fuel rail.. theres a hose on each side..
Attachment 721585
well ive only gotten both hoses just a little bit past where they started.. and i need to get this clip off..
Attachment 721586


Attachment 721587

here is when i pulled my upper intake mani. out.. is that bad for there to be that oily lookin residue around that hole to the left??
Attachment 721588

picture of all of em.
Attachment 721589

Attachment 721590

Attachment 721591

Attachment 721592

powerwash

once it get the motor our yes a good cleaning is on the list..

finally got the middle part of the intake mani. off and managed to get the series of small pipes, im guessing have something to do with feul,off except for 2 lines.. and guess which 2 they were?...
Attachment 721593

Attachment 721594

Attachment 721595
i had made a thread a while back about how to get my header off.. more specifically the heat shield.. i was saying there was a lot of other stuff in the way and the series of feul pipes and lower intake mani. have been in the way.. heres a pic of the clearance between them.. its about an inch at the most
Attachment 721596
the mess..
Attachment 721597
these are the 2 hoses i cant get off.. and of course theyre the main 2 comin in from the right side of the block...
Attachment 721598

Attachment 721599

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ebuildbuddy008

Slice them back a half inch with a razor, and twist them at the same time... once theyre off just cut the hose back where the split stops, and you should be all set.

Another word of advice... the night before you are going to work on it... spray some penetrant onto ALL the nuts/bolts you are going to be removing the next day LIBERALLY... It'll help keep your swear jar empty.

Yeh ive had to cut one hose already I just didn't want to cut more.. I've heard those nipples are really hard to get around. So use some pb blaster?

well ended up cuttin the hoses.. got the lower intake manifold off. exhaust is for sunday. then once i can get the right tool for the power steering and ac pumps ill have those out so.. maybe by next weekend ill have the motor out..

Look at all that dirt.


Cut clamps you cant get off easy with a dremel. PB blaster and possibly a propane torch will be your friend getting the o2 sensor free. Every motor i've helped pull or pulled myself i just eneded up cutting the o2 sensor wires and soldering/heatshrink tubing later.

They are a BITCH. Infact, all the exhaust bolts are a bitch. Should be the only thing you have real trouble with pulling the engine.

yeh got some pb blaster yesterday. all i have left is to get the header off and ac/power steering pumps.. im gonna need a 14mm 6point closed end to get those nuts off..

Leave the PS pump in the car... just remove the brackets off the motor and ziptie it out of the way. Same with most accessories.

ive already taken everything else completely out of the bay.. i was gonna clean it up some since everythings so dirty..

http://gunemdown.net/simplemachinesf...p?topic=3042.0
Attachment 721611

shit. 50 bucks.. guess u gott pay to play. well i guess i wont be making this event lol. it might be a while for me. motor is almost out.
i got the exhaust mani. out to day, and the ps pump. now all i lack is the ps/ac pump bracket. and i only have one bolt on it i need a 14mm 6 point closed end to get off.
then tranny bolts, mount bolts and this bitch will be out..

50 is cheap, its like 100-150 here

Yep. Our events dont cost alot.

Most of our rx7's dont run though. :D

Motherfuckin' jackstand warriors raise your handz!

Edit: Make some trips to NC here to drift if you have to. I'm sure you can give someone a handjob or road head to get trailered home if you smack into something gnarly. I kidd. NC scene is cool.

It's 40$ by me. Just a skid pad, not a real track tho.

well the events down here are on the inside of a half mile track i believe..

So for the cost of rebuilding, you could probably score a decent front clip turbo motor... you should consider that... before blowing too much money on a motor that won't make over 120 hp...

ive thought about that.. but there are receipts from where they replaced this motor and it was 900 for a na with 60000 miles on it.. and i have no where near 900 to cough up for another motor..
i was figuring while i had it apart doing the rebuild i could streetport it. buy some new injectors(probably not install them though) and look into a small turbo setup.. not stock.. but not a beastly turbo or anything. id rather have a front mount.. but would consider a v.
havent put a whole lot of thought into that scenario yet though since the motor isnt even out.

got the starter , and ac pump off today. as well as 8 motor mounts and one tranny mount.. so all i have left is 4 tranny bolts and this bitch is out.
btw. i found a guy near me who has a lot of tII parts... might be turboed before too long.

racingbeat.com
Rear Suspension Upright Toe Eliminator
get rid of that gay dtss crap.
only $48.00 and cheap shipping.
cant beat it

im pressing mine when the day they get here

yea dtss eliminators have been on the list for a while now. I'm pickin up some corbeau seats Sunday or Monday

ok so ive got a lotta shit off but no pics yet.. ive decided on gettin rid of the ac so ive got the radiator out and a few lines. ive got the 2 hoses on the oil cooler left and then 4 bolts to the tranny and then this bitch is out.. i just need a cherry picker.. lol

You dont need a cherry picker.

Drop the front suspension and subframe if you can't find two friends to help you lift the motor out by hand.....

I litterally watched two guys pick a motor up i was selling (not burly doods either) and put it in the passenger footwell of an rx8 without breaking a sweat.

wow its taken you that long?????

i can swap an engine and diff, wiring and all in two hours. with pneumatic tools of course.


use a cherry picker. less chances of injury

i have no pneumatic tools and not a whole lota time at once.. but its spring break now so i should have it out soon.. im not really in a hurry with it.. dont have much money at the moment so not a lot is gonna happen once i get it out.. i want to take my time to make sure everythings right too.

so my dad said he would loan me some money to get it done.. how much would it be to do a rebuild and streetport on my motor?