what all is needed to get rid of my neg camber on the back of my fc?

i have stance coilovers and im wanting to get full tire contact on rear. do i just need one of the rear camber elim bars? such as wat knightsports and mazdatrix offer?

 

Here's how you do it.


1. Go to awr or mmr website.

2. Go to individual camber adjuster links

3. Click "buy"

4. Give credit card info....yada yada.

5. "submit"

6. Go to mazdatrix, super now, etc....

7. Find camber adjustment items

8. Find "sublink" or "single arm camber adjuster"

9. Click "buy"

10. Enter information, credit card, yada....bleh, vomit.

11. Submit like you're a bsdm bitch.

12. Wait for **** to come in the mail freaking out any time you hear something REMOTELY sounding like a delivery truck.....

13. Delivery person knocks on your door while you're taking a dump or getting your hump on.

14. Quicky, you handle yourself and answer the door.

15. Gee whiz! New parts!

16. Pb blaster, jackstands, jack.....cardboard....creeper, anti seize, ratchet, sockets..... Gather that **** up.

17. Dissasemble, throw stock **** in the trash, install new ****, adjust, check, adjust, check, get alignment.

18. Done.

That's what you need. Entire process would have been too long a post and using "use the search" demotivational img's are played out.

 

you forgot the first step..

1. search before you ask a stupid *** question

 

you forgot
this is a forum to help people if your upset about someone not searching you do have the right to say it but why?why waste the time its pretty annoying some people dont have time to search some are flate lazy an its easieer for some to be helped like this guy was. idk i just dont se the purpose in trying to be e-cool? oh well later glad someone could offer help

 

not trying to be "e-cool". just tired of driftarzz that cant take 2 seconds to even click search or even try to read the sticky at the top of this section titled "official drift setup thread". a normal average functioning person would probably at least look at that thread, which happens to have his answers in the first ******* post. these types of threads **** up this section for no reason.

and if you dont even have time to read or do some form of research, what makes you think you have time to get into such an involved sport as this?

 

very good points makes alotta sense now

 

Technical questions add to the section.... the threads that **** it up are the ones that have no content like i feel that the lowest FC thread is a waste.... but it looks like its one of the largest threads on here... because truth be told.... people love to post pictures especially pictures of cars that arent even theirs and talk about cars that arent theirs bc they love to dream... who cares about that ****... lets talk about your OWN setup how you got there the technical aspects of it and what you went through during the process... what parts you used what parts you wouldnt have used and why... these are beneficial to this section of the forum... but people prefer to watch videos that are "ken block inspired".... This is exactly why forums like Ziptied are invite only...

I have started a few technical threads my most recent is fuel setup I was looking to see what most people are doing THEMSELVES in the way of fuel setups specific to drifting ... i.e. do they find more benefit in the way of a surge tank setup or particular fuel pump etc..

but hey I was thinking of starting a thread titled i was in a drift battle with a civic (yes its fwd, thats what makes it so stupid and applicable to my example) I bet that would be a HUGE thread!

 

thus we already have the drift setup sticky up top. that thread specifically shows what people are running and what works or doesn't. if it even showed that guy with the 1jz subframe modification that helps 0 out camber. bottom line is he should have searched or at least looked through the topics of this sub-forum and he would have found his answer quite fast. some people are gonna **** on him for it, some people wont.

 

I gotcha... I agree.. but a dialogue about specific things sometimes arent so bad... I didnt mean this thread in specific and yes it does have a thread started about something... and if everything is always "already covered" then why does anyone post new threads?? they became new by someone putting up something that is new to them... I dont search all the time because it doesnt well never yields the results im looking for.... but thats just me...

But I do agree with you 100% you should always START with searching but sometimes you have to still post because its not "exactly" what you are looking for...

 

some topics are understandable when it comes to not finding stuff with searching

however reason stevensimon ripped him is because theres so much info on the web and this forum about rear camber adjustment that its easily within searching for results

 

omg, lol i had a question, did you read it? cause i already had a good idea i just wanted to make sure it was the correct thing to do before i waste a 140 bucks. if i saw you at the track i would laugh at your *** for being about acting like a ***** than just helping other people, dont crap on peoples threads

 

who gives a **** if he searched or not?

Answer his question or stfu.

 

Don't get the individual adjusters unless you autocross/track/drift the car, buy the adjustable sublink instead and save some money.

 

You can make the link yourself, via parts from Jegz, summit, or Lane automotive and save a few bucks. I did this for my front sway bar end links, and they actual work better (less squeaks, and rust) than the mazdatrix ones I have on the rear Some people go as far to use greaseable endlinks, but I do not do not think its as critical with the subframe link.

FYI I broke down and did the mazdatrix steel link on mine. They cost $129 but is a good piece. Depending on how much neg camber you have it should be all you need.

You could also adjust your coilovers up right?

 

.

 

Sublink changes Pinion angle, especially if your pulling a decent amount of camber out.

 

Finally some people who actually wanna help people!

 

Yes, yes it does. That's why i bought both sets. I'm a firm believer in wheel fitment and being low. I dont care if it's functional. However, crunching out camber hardcore using the sublink alone is dangerous. Nice way to break your driveshaft......

I mean, if you want your car to comfortably get over speed bumps you dont need all 3.

 

can somebody explain to me how my rear wheels have noticeable camber diffferences. All I have for the rear end susp. is coilovers, riding on the same height each side. Is there a adjustment i missed somewhere?

and why do i need both types? My logic just tells me to buy the individual ones. Keep in my that this is Form>Function question because i personally did not notice any functional problems when drifting. Just wanted to get my fitment right. I am trying to avoid unequally pulled fenders.

 

I WAS trying to avoid unequal pull but at this point i really dont care BUT, i measured top hat to spring perch on both my rear coilovers and they were the same height (car was on level surface....as close to level as it could be anyway) and i had the same problem as you. Uneven camber between wheels.


It could be worn out bushings or something bent as well.

You can get the bulk of your camber dialed out safely if you dont go too crazy with the single arm and just fine tweak it with the individual links to even up both sides. You can be dumped and pretty close if not at zero camber without binding up the back of the car. The rear link alone isn't enough from personal experience.

 

My question is why can't we use a camber bolts like the ones pictured? Wouldn't that be similar to lenghtning or shortening the sublink thus changing the camber/caster ??? Why would this not be possible? Would there be enough 'offset' to dail out the camber? I think this might work and be a very cheap way to adjust the rear camber. problems might be how to keep the bolt from turning or breaking???? getting it through the holes??? aligning both sides the same? Could also do something similar to the cam nut for toe adjustment??



The camber adjuster manufacturers also recommend the spherical control arm bushings (toe adjustment control arm bushing) because your actually twisting the control arm not as it was designed to be and could cause binding with delrin or poly bushings.



The image I attached below is our beloved FC rear suspension with the showing the sublink which is repaced by the adjustable links. And my Idea how the cam bolt would work.

 

in response to this. When i ordered my supernow camber links and shizzz i just had the owner of PSM pick em up for me from supernow. I guess the guy he talked to at supernow said that its very common for FC's to have more camber on one side of the car than the other even if the car is perfectly even ride height all around. kinda weird

 

yeah it's just a stupid problem with FC's . i heard an easy way to dial in the same camber is just buy one single individual camber adjuster... would i do this? nope. but i mean in theory it should work. just adjust one side to match the camber on the other side.

 

Go for it.

I'll stick with my "expensive" parts.

 

My bad, this is the drifting forum, where anodized, 'expensive' parts are cool. Who cares if there could be a 'just as effective' cheaper alternative to adjustable links.