E-brake/Hydraulic setups
#30
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Went and bought the priority valve.. I was one fitting short so i didnt finnish it today but you can see how its mounted. The one thats not connected is for the rear brakes. the other one that comes up is from the master cylinder.. pretty easy to mount and it`ll probably work ! we`ll see tomorrow.. One tip i got from the nice woman selling the valve was that you cant have the e-brake tilted while bleeding cus it`ll always be little bubble in the top, other than that it was straight forward!
DSC00130.jpg?t=1238453466
the reservoir is huge, ugly, in the way, etc+++ but it was the only one they had for the moment..
DSC00130.jpg?t=1238453466
the reservoir is huge, ugly, in the way, etc+++ but it was the only one they had for the moment..
#32
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The valve works great! The brakes doesnt lock up after releasing the e-brake (when using pedal and e-brake together). I think you have to pressure bleed it though. Im gonna try it on the first event of this year Think its gonna work great!
#33
New to Rotary's
I do believe that would also be called a proportioning valve, I could be wrong, and if so, from what I understand a proportioning valve is another solution which helps with hydro's that don't lock like they should
#34
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I've heard many times "priority valve" for a "proportioning valve" and vice-versa. As you I don't really now if it's the same thing or not. Anyway, it seems to do the job for anyone who calls it priority or proportioning valve and it's the most important ^^
#35
Grabbin My Wankel
iTrader: (2)
I use the stock e-brake in my FC. I went through a little process making it work for me. The end result is :
SS Brake lines
Stoptech Rotors
Hawk HP+ Pads
Tighten the ebrake cable nut down so that it will stop your car on a hill at 3 clicks
Ebay drift button
That was the perfect formula for my car. and the Ebrake works flawlessly. I was thinking about extending the handle a little by welding something to it...... more on that when I think it through.
SS Brake lines
Stoptech Rotors
Hawk HP+ Pads
Tighten the ebrake cable nut down so that it will stop your car on a hill at 3 clicks
Ebay drift button
That was the perfect formula for my car. and the Ebrake works flawlessly. I was thinking about extending the handle a little by welding something to it...... more on that when I think it through.
#36
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Back when my car ran, i had stock everything. Worked great. I did find that pads make the biggest difference though. If youre having problems locking up, Id try switching to a more aggressive pad. Also, I know this may sound like common sense, but I found that "shocking" or abrubtly pulling the ebrake up instead of being timid with it made a big difference too. Dont be afraid to yank it. Im trying a haydaulic ebrake for this car. Just wanted to try something different. I always felt like ebrake entries were lame anyway.
Heres my current setup.
Its has givin me some problems so far but most of them have been self inflicted because of how i mounted it. I wanted it near the stock location, but thats not really a good idea is hindsight
If i pulled straight back on the handle. I will smash my elbow on the fittings. So i flipped the cylinder, but i had to file the mount to make room for the fittings
The other thing i didnt like was how loosey goosey the actual handle was. But after a trip to home depot, I got teflon bushings and it was good to go after i installed those.
And then theres the "install kit" That come with 24'' of braided line. This may work on an s chassis but theres no way its going to work on an FC. I had to get custom lines made. The shortest i could make them while still being safe and somewhat clean was around 36"(i think)
Then theres the length of pull-with a full bucket seat and 4 point harness, it makes it difficult to get a full length of pull on the handle without your elbow or shoulder getting bound up on somthing
Heres my current setup.
Its has givin me some problems so far but most of them have been self inflicted because of how i mounted it. I wanted it near the stock location, but thats not really a good idea is hindsight
If i pulled straight back on the handle. I will smash my elbow on the fittings. So i flipped the cylinder, but i had to file the mount to make room for the fittings
The other thing i didnt like was how loosey goosey the actual handle was. But after a trip to home depot, I got teflon bushings and it was good to go after i installed those.
And then theres the "install kit" That come with 24'' of braided line. This may work on an s chassis but theres no way its going to work on an FC. I had to get custom lines made. The shortest i could make them while still being safe and somewhat clean was around 36"(i think)
Then theres the length of pull-with a full bucket seat and 4 point harness, it makes it difficult to get a full length of pull on the handle without your elbow or shoulder getting bound up on somthing
#38
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#39
RX7-Factory
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ASD Hand Brake /thread.
Stay Tuned for George's FC Brembo Dual Caliper set. I'm ordering my ASD stuff this week, and once George gets the designs finalized i'll be buying a set.
kinda decided on trying this out over night. my ebrake got bent when i smashed at Irwindale so it's always bound up since then. might as well ditch it, and the ugly calipers to make things look newer and work better at the same time.
Stay Tuned for George's FC Brembo Dual Caliper set. I'm ordering my ASD stuff this week, and once George gets the designs finalized i'll be buying a set.
kinda decided on trying this out over night. my ebrake got bent when i smashed at Irwindale so it's always bound up since then. might as well ditch it, and the ugly calipers to make things look newer and work better at the same time.
#40
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its hooked in-line with the stock brake lines so as long as the handbrake handle is forward (valve open), I should be able to just bleed the brakes like normal. Pump the foot brake and bleed at the rear calipers.
If i still have problems, ill just unbolt the bracket and flip the cylinder to bleed it, then reinstall it. done like dinner
That priority valve is genious.
If i still have problems, ill just unbolt the bracket and flip the cylinder to bleed it, then reinstall it. done like dinner
That priority valve is genious.
#42
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That's what I thought you'd need to do. It's one thing pushing bubbles through a thin brake line, but the air won't sink to the bottom to get pushed through a larger cylinder like that. It looks rad though.
#43
RX7-Factory
iTrader: (8)
seeing this photo made me think of something i always hear...
race car bros always say they want to do the "turning brake" / separate hydro ebrakes for the rear wheels to lock one 1 at a time to have an advantage.... over analyzing at it's finest hour.
has anyone else heard this before from anyone?
note: yes i know this is impossible with an LSD/welded diff - because both wheels would lock no matter what. just asking because i too think it is the stupidest **** i've ever heard in my life, and somehow it pertains to this thread.
race car bros always say they want to do the "turning brake" / separate hydro ebrakes for the rear wheels to lock one 1 at a time to have an advantage.... over analyzing at it's finest hour.
has anyone else heard this before from anyone?
note: yes i know this is impossible with an LSD/welded diff - because both wheels would lock no matter what. just asking because i too think it is the stupidest **** i've ever heard in my life, and somehow it pertains to this thread.
#44
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^It might help understeer problems in cornering IF you use it right, but it does seem like more trouble than its worth. I'm sure there are way easier/ more worthwhile things they could do to give them an advantage, than to pick up enough coordination to use two more brake levers while driving. Its not a semi-truck, just man-handle the thing for gods sake.
#46
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seeing this photo made me think of something i always hear...
race car bros always say they want to do the "turning brake" / separate hydro ebrakes for the rear wheels to lock one 1 at a time to have an advantage.... over analyzing at it's finest hour.
has anyone else heard this before from anyone?
note: yes i know this is impossible with an LSD/welded diff - because both wheels would lock no matter what. just asking because i too think it is the stupidest **** i've ever heard in my life, and somehow it pertains to this thread.
race car bros always say they want to do the "turning brake" / separate hydro ebrakes for the rear wheels to lock one 1 at a time to have an advantage.... over analyzing at it's finest hour.
has anyone else heard this before from anyone?
note: yes i know this is impossible with an LSD/welded diff - because both wheels would lock no matter what. just asking because i too think it is the stupidest **** i've ever heard in my life, and somehow it pertains to this thread.
#47
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im no longer a rx7 owner but here is my hydro setup on my drift s14 240sx, its a custom CNC dual caliper bracket made by George on zilvia who is prob a member here but dont know his SN http://zilvia.net/f/brakes/426702-s-...ml#post4428587
here is my cars setup
my old inline setup is still there but is now gone and only the black tall handle is there now for the extra calipers
here is my cars setup
my old inline setup is still there but is now gone and only the black tall handle is there now for the extra calipers
#48
im no longer a rx7 owner but here is my hydro setup on my drift s14 240sx, its a custom CNC dual caliper bracket made by George on zilvia who is prob a member here but dont know his SN http://zilvia.net/f/brakes/426702-s-...ml#post4428587
here is my cars setup
my old inline setup is still there but is now gone and only the black tall handle is there now for the extra calipers
here is my cars setup
my old inline setup is still there but is now gone and only the black tall handle is there now for the extra calipers
FC's ones are in the works. my cable setup worked awesome until it didn't and then started sucking. i personally like the feel of a hydro a lot more.