Drift Car Porting
#1
Drift Car Porting
Ok i did some searching and found a couple different build threads, some with different engine setups. My question is what is the best port for drifting? Why do some people say street port is the best? and why cant you get nutty with a sweet peripheral port turbo setup? I want to see what everyone thinks about a certain setup. Looking forward to hearing back from you guys.
#2
You can do whatever you want if you have the knowledge, time, and $. I think streetport is easy and can make nice torque at a lower rpm compared to other crazy ports. I know I want as much torque as possible in these little bastards.
#3
Yeah i figured that has to be the only difference is the power band itself. But lets say if bridgy makes alittle more power but you sacrifice when the power comes on (power band or RPM) why not do that? drifting can always be at high RPMs so if bridgy is up top why not?
#5
well its not about the money. ill spend whatever it take to have sweet setup! im just curious as to what everyone thinks. like is street the only way to go for drifting or can you get creative and do something bigger?
#6
Well if $$ doesn't matter go buy a P-ported 4 rotor... Like mad
mike...Rx7, Rx8, Mazda Rotary Engines, O ring, Race Car Engine Parts
But we live in this place called reality
reality-The world or the state of things as they actually exist, as opposed to an idealistic or notional idea of them.
Money has everything to do with it. Again what is a realistic budget... the suggestions could easily be from a few thousand to 10's of thousands...
mike...Rx7, Rx8, Mazda Rotary Engines, O ring, Race Car Engine Parts
But we live in this place called reality
reality-The world or the state of things as they actually exist, as opposed to an idealistic or notional idea of them.
Money has everything to do with it. Again what is a realistic budget... the suggestions could easily be from a few thousand to 10's of thousands...
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#8
Well if $$ doesn't matter go buy a P-ported 4 rotor... Like mad
mike...Rx7, Rx8, Mazda Rotary Engines, O ring, Race Car Engine Parts
But we live in this place called reality
reality-The world or the state of things as they actually exist, as opposed to an idealistic or notional idea of them.
Money has everything to do with it. Again what is a realistic budget... the suggestions could easily be from a few thousand to 10's of thousands...
mike...Rx7, Rx8, Mazda Rotary Engines, O ring, Race Car Engine Parts
But we live in this place called reality
reality-The world or the state of things as they actually exist, as opposed to an idealistic or notional idea of them.
Money has everything to do with it. Again what is a realistic budget... the suggestions could easily be from a few thousand to 10's of thousands...
#9
Well a bridge allows more air and i cant see it having any excessive wear compared to a street port. Im starting to think its has everything to do with the power band....
#10
Its not about having a "sweet setup".....
in drifting you NEED mid range power most of the time as you'll be feathering the throttle between 3000-6000rpm.... when you go with a bridge or peripheral port you shift THE ENTIRE POWERBAND to the high RPM's.... which you'd need to adjust gearing a bit to stay in that part of the powerband to keep you moving, which is just not very good for the engines over the course of a full drift season and you'd be back at square one.
And yes, the more extreme the port work, the more wear the side and corner seals see. Even with a beveled edge, you're scraping material off those seals every time they see that empty space in the iron and then get back onto the iron, no matter how small that difference is, over time it turns to a big problem and you need to rebuild.
Thats why all the pro-drift cars use engines that provide a lot more torque.... supercharged V8s, 2JZ's, big turbo SR with variable valve timing heads etc etc.
a street-port is going to be the best overall option to have a wider powerband..... most street rotaries use a street port and even some of the drag cars use them.
the sport of drifting is not about having a "sweet setup" as I said.... its all about having that grunt..... when you look under the hood of most accomplished drift cars, you dont see anything crazy looking.... even the Apexi FD driven by Imamura (now rebuilt by Bergenholtz) had a streetport and even used a small shot of nitrous for the torque boost.
Then again, if you want more torque, just go with a 20B
in drifting you NEED mid range power most of the time as you'll be feathering the throttle between 3000-6000rpm.... when you go with a bridge or peripheral port you shift THE ENTIRE POWERBAND to the high RPM's.... which you'd need to adjust gearing a bit to stay in that part of the powerband to keep you moving, which is just not very good for the engines over the course of a full drift season and you'd be back at square one.
And yes, the more extreme the port work, the more wear the side and corner seals see. Even with a beveled edge, you're scraping material off those seals every time they see that empty space in the iron and then get back onto the iron, no matter how small that difference is, over time it turns to a big problem and you need to rebuild.
Thats why all the pro-drift cars use engines that provide a lot more torque.... supercharged V8s, 2JZ's, big turbo SR with variable valve timing heads etc etc.
a street-port is going to be the best overall option to have a wider powerband..... most street rotaries use a street port and even some of the drag cars use them.
the sport of drifting is not about having a "sweet setup" as I said.... its all about having that grunt..... when you look under the hood of most accomplished drift cars, you dont see anything crazy looking.... even the Apexi FD driven by Imamura (now rebuilt by Bergenholtz) had a streetport and even used a small shot of nitrous for the torque boost.
Then again, if you want more torque, just go with a 20B
#11
Its not about having a "sweet setup".....
in drifting you NEED mid range power most of the time as you'll be feathering the throttle between 3000-6000rpm.... when you go with a bridge or peripheral port you shift THE ENTIRE POWERBAND to the high RPM's.... which you'd need to adjust gearing a bit to stay in that part of the powerband to keep you moving, which is just not very good for the engines over the course of a full drift season and you'd be back at square one
Thats why all the pro-drift cars use engines that provide a lot more torque.... supercharged V8s, 2JZ's, big turbo SR with variable valve timing heads etc etc.
a street-port is going to be the best overall option to have a wider powerband..... most street rotaries use a street port and even some of the drag cars use them.
the sport of drifting is not about having a "sweet setup" as I said.... its all about having that grunt..... when you look under the hood of most accomplished drift cars, you dont see anything crazy looking.... even the Apexi FD driven by Imamura (now rebuilt by Bergenholtz) had a streetport and even used a small shot of nitrous for the torque boost.
Then again, if you want more torque, just go with a 20B
in drifting you NEED mid range power most of the time as you'll be feathering the throttle between 3000-6000rpm.... when you go with a bridge or peripheral port you shift THE ENTIRE POWERBAND to the high RPM's.... which you'd need to adjust gearing a bit to stay in that part of the powerband to keep you moving, which is just not very good for the engines over the course of a full drift season and you'd be back at square one
Thats why all the pro-drift cars use engines that provide a lot more torque.... supercharged V8s, 2JZ's, big turbo SR with variable valve timing heads etc etc.
a street-port is going to be the best overall option to have a wider powerband..... most street rotaries use a street port and even some of the drag cars use them.
the sport of drifting is not about having a "sweet setup" as I said.... its all about having that grunt..... when you look under the hood of most accomplished drift cars, you dont see anything crazy looking.... even the Apexi FD driven by Imamura (now rebuilt by Bergenholtz) had a streetport and even used a small shot of nitrous for the torque boost.
Then again, if you want more torque, just go with a 20B
#12
Ok see now your being ridiculous. Yes 4 rotor would be ideal, me saying "money doesnt matter" doesnt mean im made of it. i am only asking peoples opinion of the motor setup. i see that alot of people run the street port and i want to know why over the many other options.
I would focus more on your turbo than the port. In general the more extreme the port the higher you need to rev the engine to use the power. Stock port can make great power, but the turbo choice need to match the ports. Its about balance.
A small billet wheel turbo will spool quick/instant response and be reliable at high boost pressures, I linked a great example
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...d-dyno-956766/
I bet this would be an awesome "drift" car power band. Its a stock motor and the majic is the billet wheeled turbo.
I ask you what your budget is because that determines whatI.others would suggest. When you say "money doesn't matter" an Dry stumped p-ported 4 rotor is my answer, If you only have a lil cash i would suggest somthing else. Trying to provide you the best possible realistic answer, not giving you some BS unacheiveable answer. No reason to discuss things that don't apply, like a 3 or 4 rotor.
#13
That was my next suggestion^^^. I believe Kyle Mohan is using a bridgeport motor now. But like stated before. A quick, easy spool will help get to those higher rpms faster. Drifting is definitely not all about high rpms either. Deceleration and digging out of low rpms is also a part of drifting. I try not to clutch kick if I don't have too. The right tune can do wonders.
#14
I disagree with the comment on drifting powerband. Full throttle and high rpm's unless it's a small technical track with less full throttle.
Go bridge port or large street port. Your turbo and tuning can make up Low
end
Go bridge port or large street port. Your turbo and tuning can make up Low
end
#15
yes those bigger ports make more power but also reduces engine life. keeping the engine reliable and simple while focusing on cooling would be a good idea.
you can only go drifting if your car runs.
you can only go drifting if your car runs.
#16
I would focus more on your turbo than the port. In general the more extreme the port the higher you need to rev the engine to use the power. Stock port can make great power, but the turbo choice need to match the ports. Its about balance.
A small billet wheel turbo will spool quick/instant response and be reliable at high boost pressures, I linked a great example
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...d-dyno-956766/
I bet this would be an awesome "drift" car power band. Its a stock motor and the majic is the billet wheeled turbo.
I ask you what your budget is because that determines whatI.others would suggest. When you say "money doesn't matter" an Dry stumped p-ported 4 rotor is my answer, If you only have a lil cash i would suggest somthing else. Trying to provide you the best possible realistic answer, not giving you some BS unacheiveable answer. No reason to discuss things that don't apply, like a 3 or 4 rotor.
A small billet wheel turbo will spool quick/instant response and be reliable at high boost pressures, I linked a great example
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...d-dyno-956766/
I bet this would be an awesome "drift" car power band. Its a stock motor and the majic is the billet wheeled turbo.
I ask you what your budget is because that determines whatI.others would suggest. When you say "money doesn't matter" an Dry stumped p-ported 4 rotor is my answer, If you only have a lil cash i would suggest somthing else. Trying to provide you the best possible realistic answer, not giving you some BS unacheiveable answer. No reason to discuss things that don't apply, like a 3 or 4 rotor.
#17
You're not going to always see long sweeping 4th or even 5th gear drifts, especially in the American pro-drifting scene when most tracks are small tracks that have maybe 2 or 3 low-speed kinks where you'll see drivers sometimes shift into 1st.
And then even in Japan..... you will hardly see any grassroots drifting track days where people are making big power.... typically its just 240/180/200's that run stock block and turbo and use simple bolt-ons with some increase boost pressure and they're drifting almost the entire length of the track
I think Yoshihara has the only V8 thats closer to stock than any of the other cars and he's places very well in each race, most of the time.
Just about every other V8 drift car is supercharged
#18
I choose to do a medium street port on mine becuase of the powerband and torque. Rotaries suffer from the lack of torque and making huge ports will only set you back. Why do you think everyone is going v8? Not because of HP, is because of the smooth powerband and torque these motors give you. Last year my car made 425hp @ 17 psi with about 340ish torque. I thought that was garbage. In drifting you want to instantly plant the car as soon as you mash the throttle. With a rotary big turbo car thats not gonna happen. Where we kick *** is in the added rpm range where other guys are shifting or on the rev limiter.
MY set up is a medium street port, borg warner s362, and a front mount.
I want NOSSSSSS!
MY set up is a medium street port, borg warner s362, and a front mount.
I want NOSSSSSS!
#21
sweet deal! thanks for the reply's and im just trying to learn alittle more about the porting since i do want to eventually build my motor and would like to understand more before i do. Thanks again dudes
#23
Here is my bridgeport setup with a variable geometry turbo. It seems to have a little grunt down low. Could not get traction on the dyno. Dyno said 484 torque. I think there was a error in its calculation due to the wheel spin. It was off the scale rich up top that why it seem to give up pulling. I never could stop the wheel spin to get a decent tune.
#25
I'd say go medium street port. ...Although a OEM port will give you the best Tq band/Hp ratio. Just concentrate on getting a nice turbo. I'd suggest a 35R or equivilent.. maybe a BW-S3 series. Don't get all size happy and throw some ridiculous 45R on your car. It'd be a waste and completely useless. A nice mid range power band with 350-450 WHP should be your goal. On OEM ports you'll have to run higher boost...and I'd suggest water/Meth or even alcohol injection. Or if you have e85 readily available in your area...i t might be worth it to go that route. Get a GOOD tune.. which means not a street tune, not your buddy tunning your car out of his garage, not a piston head tuner who says they know what they're doing, .....I mean a guy who tunes rotaries and knows them well. Power FC, Haltech, Motec, even the newer Link G-4 standalones are all excellent platformes to control eeeeeerrrthang. Do it once... Do it right. Otherwise...just get a v-8.