aw ye thanks for the info im planning to running some Baller wheels and Baller specs on the car to get as much angle as possible. I need to make my way down to your shop again soon

Thanks alot man! We appreciate all your guys support way hard!

Yes those seats were a deathtrap. Fully bolted into the car they would move about a foot in either direction if you shook them.

As far as the motor its really not gonna be anything crazy just simple and to the point. 13bt mild street port maybe and a few bolt ons like front mount and stuff and fuel system upgrades. Were shooting for 250-300 HP because Im weird and thing slow cars are cooler to drive. But yeah you won't see any v8s in this thread

 

Yeah, they're definitely not good lol. The first part I bought for my next project is the seat so I can be comfortable. Got a Corbeau FX1 Wide. Hard to find seats for me.

Yeah, that's a good number for lots of fun. I'm still debating 13b/B6t/1UZ.

 

I guess it doesn't matter what engine as long as your having fun and sending it hard right????

 

That's the spirit!

 

Im hitting the same-front and back on both wheels. They are just too wide for that offset. I have my stance coilovers maxed negative camber and it doesnt look like I have anything more negative than -2 degrees. I have a 9.5+12 so Id basically have to space them out 30mm to get that clearance. I already have +20mm fenders and They are already about to poke. I definitely need more negative camber. Heres how my car sits now

-Max neg camber on stance camber plates
-9.5j +12
-20mm overs
-225/40/18

what am i doing wrong? hpw can i get more camber/clearance?

 

You need wide fenders for a 9.5 +12? I'm running a 9 with a +7 on stock fenders WITH my balljoints extended 1.5" and have more clearance than that.

I'm also running a 215/40 but that shouldn't make THAT much difference. If you're wanting to run more angle, you'll have to extend your balljoints and run narrower wheels with less offset OR space them out and run huge fenders.

The only way you're going to get any real camber out of the front of an FC is with LCA/balljoint modifications. Camber plates just aren't enough.

 

I think youre right. I was also just told I could elongate the upper mounting hole on my coilover/spindle mount. Im probably going to look into doing both.

Sorry for the threadjack. Hopefully some of this info will be pertinent to your build

 

yeah man, I don't get it either. But the picture speaks for itself

 

No problem buddy good info is good info. If i were you I'd maybe bump up to 30 mm over and def look into extended balljoints. Then you're getting more clearance AND more camber. Slotting your coilovers is an option but alot of people have limited space before the inner lip of your wheel hits the coilover

 

We did the rest of the front control arm bushings today. They still suck

 

I wish I was patient enough to actually build the chassis first! All your progress is looking good. I'm actually interested in how you made your adjustable links, did you just find rod ends the right size and find a piece of threaded tube the right size for the center piece?

 

it was a bit of thinking and measuring but yeah essentially thats what i did

 

Word. Keep in mind that those who have clearance issues with this would probably be the guys with wider wheels or higher offsets (or both), so some wheel spacers would probably help you dodge this problem.

Does anybody know how many degrees can be taken out by doing this modification to the shock mounting holes on the spindles? I can't help but feel like it's a little sketchy to have slots drilled in these... Maybe I'm just a *****. But either way, I'd just like to know how effective it is to do this.

 

All you really do is just elongate the hole on the upper bolt hole. Its pretty much the same thing pbm coils come with stock. A bunch of oldschool guys like jtp have been doing it for a while. From what I've seen you can run upwards of 4.5-5* camber by doing this but obviously it'll be limited by your wheel/tire size

 

Totally get it now. Bottom mounting bolt as a pivot joint and the top bolt as a slider, allowing you to push the top of the spindle inwards. Smart and simple.

 

you got it exactly

youre pretty much making this

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/p...verBracket.jpg

 

Alright so after a week of doubt and scratching our heads we realized the flanges on the rear control arms were really a metal sleeve. apparently it was my first day working on cars. Whatever. Hammered those bitches



This also means that we are FINALLY done with all the damn bushings and ready to move on with our lives. Its kind of an achievement in itself we changed all the bushings without really using a press. It can be done but it is the farthest from ideal.

MMR sphericals whent in like butter after a couple nights in the freezer

 

Hahaha, I did the exact same thing!

Nice progress.

 

Congrats on completing a billion bushings.

 

Haha thanks! Technically I still have to do subframe and diff but those won't be nearly as hard as the other ones. Im glad its over with

 

Yeah, I don't envy you there

 

so we picked up another set of rear calipers and after making sure none of the bleeders or pistons were siezed we got to work

cleaned (lazily) and sanded





getting totally baked bruh



dicking around



finished

 

we dick around 90% in the garage. 5% bernie-ing, 4% air instrumenting, 1% actual work.

 

Those calipers look a little better.

I'd say that's a good ratio.

 

Fronts