Dummys Guide to Waxing a 7
07-28-05 | 07:16 PM
#26
Originally Posted by RX 4 Speed
Sure thing... lemme clarify.
1) Yes, my car is garaged... as I said, it never sees rain, mud, track, etc... I use it as my "stress reliever". After a long day of work, I am off, running and gunning, and the on-ramps are my prey, and also windy roads (I have a few picked out that I frequent a lot).
2) As far as the dust scenario goes... yes, you have a good point. However, what I usually do is, use a duster (California duster is a good brand) to get the dust off first. THEN I detail spray. My detail spray actually is Production Car Care too, and it's a Showcar spray too, so it actually de-statics (I know THAT'S not a word
) the car also, resulting in minimal dust. So what usually happens on a day that I feel like waxing, is a) dust off, b) detail spray, c) wax, d) detail spray again to "settle" the wax. Been doing this for years now...
See my VB garage for pics, and I also posted some threads before. Lemme dig up some pics and I can post em up.
p.s. I can't stress how important it is to take bugs off the bumper after a drive... IMMEDIATELY. Bugs are kindda like bird crap on your paint... they eventually eat away at the paint/clear coat. Especially on a warm sunny day. That's where detail spray is your friend again... 2 rags, one to apply, one to remove. Use MICROFIBER!
1) Yes, my car is garaged... as I said, it never sees rain, mud, track, etc... I use it as my "stress reliever". After a long day of work, I am off, running and gunning, and the on-ramps are my prey, and also windy roads (I have a few picked out that I frequent a lot).
2) As far as the dust scenario goes... yes, you have a good point. However, what I usually do is, use a duster (California duster is a good brand) to get the dust off first. THEN I detail spray. My detail spray actually is Production Car Care too, and it's a Showcar spray too, so it actually de-statics (I know THAT'S not a word
) the car also, resulting in minimal dust. So what usually happens on a day that I feel like waxing, is a) dust off, b) detail spray, c) wax, d) detail spray again to "settle" the wax. Been doing this for years now... See my VB garage for pics, and I also posted some threads before. Lemme dig up some pics and I can post em up.
p.s. I can't stress how important it is to take bugs off the bumper after a drive... IMMEDIATELY. Bugs are kindda like bird crap on your paint... they eventually eat away at the paint/clear coat. Especially on a warm sunny day. That's where detail spray is your friend again... 2 rags, one to apply, one to remove. Use MICROFIBER!
i didnt know you can use microfiber to wax the car, i thought it can be used as a dry towel since it picks up water much better than 100% cloth..my paint is original and believe me, its DAMN good, paint is far from its age, looks about 1-2 years old..im really trying to find the BEST wax/polish to get rid of the swirl marks caused by my constant washing or maybe i should change my method of cleaning my car? should i use the zymol rule and dry my car in a back and forth motion? along with applying wax like this too?
cause my car really shines, my brother and i were looking for dents in my car and he was like damn man, i cant see cause your car is soo damn shiny, its hurting my eyes and then he went back in the house lol..i was like yay, all my hard work in maintaining this car is paying off..
07-29-05 | 10:18 AM
#27
1993 VR FD Touring
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: USA
No prob man... yes, Microfiber is probably one the most important parts of waxing a car is using microfiber cloth... especially for the removal and buffing stage. It actually makes the buffing stage SOooooo much easier. Even the website of Autogeek admitted it Before, using a cotton cloth, it would take FOREVER to get a good buff going... with micro, it's a lot quicker and easier...
As far as application of wax and drying, I don't think it really matters... for me it doesn't, at least. Can anyone attest to this?
I really want to try that Pinnacle and P21S stuff now though... if that's better, then I'm there... Any Pinnacle users here on our forum??? If so, how do you like it?
Before, using a cotton cloth, it would take FOREVER to get a good buff going... with micro, it's a lot quicker and easier...As far as application of wax and drying, I don't think it really matters... for me it doesn't, at least. Can anyone attest to this?
I really want to try that Pinnacle and P21S stuff now though... if that's better, then I'm there... Any Pinnacle users here on our forum??? If so, how do you like it?
08-01-05 | 10:54 AM
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
OK, I'm old and have made all the mistakes. I now use Zaino products, so this "essay" pertains to their stuff, but the basic principles apply to any product.
First, remember any time you touch the paint you scratch it. You may not be able to see the scratches, but they are there and build up over time. To "make them go away" you can fill them (with wax for example).
To make them less visible, whenever you wash, dry, wipe, polish, always move fore/aft on horizontal surfaces, and up/down on vertical surfaces. This will ensure the scratchs (swirl marks) will only be visible from one angle, and one not usually seen. Never use rotary tools. I know "professionals" do. Make your own decisions.
Here is what I do:
1. Wash car and dry (I use a mit to wash (rinse it out often) and a small "microfibre" towel to dry - Zaino recommends a cotton bath towel, but I find it too hard to keep it off the ground, where it will pick up "debris"). If it's the first time for a new product, wash with dish detergent - Dawn is a good brand. Don't use this stuff more than once a year - it's hard on the paint. It's used to get rid of any potentially non-compatible product still on the car.
2. Run your (clean) hand over the surface of the paint. If you feel any roughness, you probably have "bonded contaminants". Use a clay bar to remove them (you will hear it "tick tick" as it does). Use a car soap dilluted in a spray bottle to lub the clay bar. Once done rinse the car off and dry. You can do this step before drying on the first step, to save the time of drying the car once. The paint surface should now be "glass smooth" to the touch.
3. Apply Z1 - be stingy. You want to get it on with no missed spots, but you want it as thin as possible. I use a small soft cotton cloth to apply the product - less is wasted that way. I also dampen the cloth before I begin. Note that Z1 will also clean problem areas - my car had an early engine fire - under hood the original shipping wax was "smoky" and I couldn't remove it even with wicked solvents. A little elbow grease and Z1 did the trick!
4. Apply Z2 or Z5 right over top of the Z1. If you have "swirl marks" Z5 will fill them. If not, Z2. I try not to inhale these products (the dust) and try to minimize skin contact. I'm not sure, but I -think- they may not be healthy. You can apply Zaino stuff in sun or shade, works fine either way (faster in sun). Again, be stingy. You want a very thin continuous film on the paint. Apply this stuff over plastic, metal, and paint. Try to avoid forcing it in cracks. It will dry "off white" and be unsightly - I use a toothbrush to get it out of these problem areas once it drys. You can also leave these two products on for as long as you like. They will both just wipe off even after months in the sun!
5. After the Z2/Z5 dries, just wipe off with a soft towel. Do not press hard!
6. Take Z6 and spray it on a small area and wipe it off immediatly. Do not let it dry! If it does it will leave a "stain" mark - just apply some more on top and wipe it off. I think Z6 removes excess Z2/Z5 and spreads the molecules out to approximate an even layer. That's the scientific term - it enhances the shine. That's the real world term.
Once you've gone over with Z6 you can apply another coat of Z2 (if you had "swirl marks" and used Z5, you can now switch to Z2) from step 4.
You can also use Z6 as a "detailer" if you're showing your car.
With Zaino on the car, bugs will just rinse off. The Zaino will last on a "daily driver" for at least 6 months (unless you're into the show car shine - in which case once a month for another coat of Z2, preceded and followed with Z6).
When I wash the car I use water. No soap, etc. Water!
And I don't want to hear any of you complain this is too much work! Try applying it to an SUV! Three times the surface area, with climbing involved! My Pathfinder (the beater) wears me out! The car is a joy to do.
Enjoy.
First, remember any time you touch the paint you scratch it. You may not be able to see the scratches, but they are there and build up over time. To "make them go away" you can fill them (with wax for example).
To make them less visible, whenever you wash, dry, wipe, polish, always move fore/aft on horizontal surfaces, and up/down on vertical surfaces. This will ensure the scratchs (swirl marks) will only be visible from one angle, and one not usually seen. Never use rotary tools. I know "professionals" do. Make your own decisions.
Here is what I do:
1. Wash car and dry (I use a mit to wash (rinse it out often) and a small "microfibre" towel to dry - Zaino recommends a cotton bath towel, but I find it too hard to keep it off the ground, where it will pick up "debris"). If it's the first time for a new product, wash with dish detergent - Dawn is a good brand. Don't use this stuff more than once a year - it's hard on the paint. It's used to get rid of any potentially non-compatible product still on the car.
2. Run your (clean) hand over the surface of the paint. If you feel any roughness, you probably have "bonded contaminants". Use a clay bar to remove them (you will hear it "tick tick" as it does). Use a car soap dilluted in a spray bottle to lub the clay bar. Once done rinse the car off and dry. You can do this step before drying on the first step, to save the time of drying the car once. The paint surface should now be "glass smooth" to the touch.
3. Apply Z1 - be stingy. You want to get it on with no missed spots, but you want it as thin as possible. I use a small soft cotton cloth to apply the product - less is wasted that way. I also dampen the cloth before I begin. Note that Z1 will also clean problem areas - my car had an early engine fire - under hood the original shipping wax was "smoky" and I couldn't remove it even with wicked solvents. A little elbow grease and Z1 did the trick!
4. Apply Z2 or Z5 right over top of the Z1. If you have "swirl marks" Z5 will fill them. If not, Z2. I try not to inhale these products (the dust) and try to minimize skin contact. I'm not sure, but I -think- they may not be healthy. You can apply Zaino stuff in sun or shade, works fine either way (faster in sun). Again, be stingy. You want a very thin continuous film on the paint. Apply this stuff over plastic, metal, and paint. Try to avoid forcing it in cracks. It will dry "off white" and be unsightly - I use a toothbrush to get it out of these problem areas once it drys. You can also leave these two products on for as long as you like. They will both just wipe off even after months in the sun!
5. After the Z2/Z5 dries, just wipe off with a soft towel. Do not press hard!
6. Take Z6 and spray it on a small area and wipe it off immediatly. Do not let it dry! If it does it will leave a "stain" mark - just apply some more on top and wipe it off. I think Z6 removes excess Z2/Z5 and spreads the molecules out to approximate an even layer. That's the scientific term - it enhances the shine. That's the real world term.
Once you've gone over with Z6 you can apply another coat of Z2 (if you had "swirl marks" and used Z5, you can now switch to Z2) from step 4.
You can also use Z6 as a "detailer" if you're showing your car.
With Zaino on the car, bugs will just rinse off. The Zaino will last on a "daily driver" for at least 6 months (unless you're into the show car shine - in which case once a month for another coat of Z2, preceded and followed with Z6).
When I wash the car I use water. No soap, etc. Water!
And I don't want to hear any of you complain this is too much work! Try applying it to an SUV! Three times the surface area, with climbing involved! My Pathfinder (the beater) wears me out! The car is a joy to do.
Enjoy.
Last edited by David Beale; 08-01-05 at 11:08 AM.
08-01-05 | 11:35 AM
#31
Originally Posted by David Beale
With Zaino on the car, bugs will just rinse off. The Zaino will last on a "daily driver" for at least 6 months.
When I wash the car I use water. No soap, etc. Water!
When I wash the car I use water. No soap, etc. Water!
So for a daily driver, the cut-down version is this:
1) Wash with Dawn. (strips off old stuff)
2) Z-1 (polish 'primer')
3) Z-2 Pro (polish)
4) Z-6 (sealant)
Does layering with ZFX + more Z-2 Pro help ensure the long life?
Dave
08-01-05 | 12:43 PM
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
The more layers of Z2 you apply, the deeper the shine. I suppose it would last longer too. When I do it, I notice diminishing returns. That is, the second coat is noticable, the third, you have to stare. The fouth, well, I guess it's better. etc. It's so easy to do once the car is preped, I've put on more coats at a car show. The only downside (for me) is my back gets tired - from bending over all the time. But I'm old!
That is, the second coat is noticable, the third, you have to stare. The fouth, well, I guess it's better. etc. It's so easy to do once the car is preped, I've put on more coats at a car show. The only downside (for me) is my back gets tired - from bending over all the time. But I'm old!
08-04-05 | 11:30 PM
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Stamford, ny
Originally Posted by RX 4 Speed
ahhh yes.... it's great to be among fellow fanatics!!!
I thought I was pretty crazy about how much I take care of how my car looks, but it sounds like there are more of you out there! hehe... From the steps that most people have given here, it all sounds good. I, however, have never had the need to use Dawn or a claybar. My paint is still extremely glossy and smooth. The only other thing I can add to everybody's comments is to USE DETAIL SPRAY. You can use any kind you want, since we all have our own preferences. But I do so every other day, and also after waxing. I wax 1x a month usually. I don't usually "wash" the car per say, since I detail spray it often. It never sees rain, so it never gets actual dirt on the car, save for dust, which I brush off with a duster. I also detail spray the bugs off after a highway drive.
As far as Zymol goes (someone asked this earlier), I used to use Zymol quite often and have had great luck. I use something else now, which Zymol doesn't even come close to. But when I was using Zymol, I used to use it everytime I wax, and haven't seen any ill effects. With it being a cleaner wax, I would imagine it even helped smooth out the paint and eliminate the need for clay bar once in a while...
I thought I was pretty crazy about how much I take care of how my car looks, but it sounds like there are more of you out there! hehe... From the steps that most people have given here, it all sounds good. I, however, have never had the need to use Dawn or a claybar. My paint is still extremely glossy and smooth. The only other thing I can add to everybody's comments is to USE DETAIL SPRAY. You can use any kind you want, since we all have our own preferences. But I do so every other day, and also after waxing. I wax 1x a month usually. I don't usually "wash" the car per say, since I detail spray it often. It never sees rain, so it never gets actual dirt on the car, save for dust, which I brush off with a duster. I also detail spray the bugs off after a highway drive.
As far as Zymol goes (someone asked this earlier), I used to use Zymol quite often and have had great luck. I use something else now, which Zymol doesn't even come close to. But when I was using Zymol, I used to use it everytime I wax, and haven't seen any ill effects. With it being a cleaner wax, I would imagine it even helped smooth out the paint and eliminate the need for clay bar once in a while...
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