Why you don't drive RX7's in the winter.
Why you don't drive RX7's in the winter.
12-29-05, 05:08 PM
#4
400WHP or bust
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Oil helps, but there are places it can't get. You think you're upset not driving it, wait till you have to scrap your car and have to find a new shell.
12-29-05, 08:05 PM
#5
Meh, ive been booting around in the FD for the last couple weeks... oh but the roads are clean and dry with daytime highs around 5-12 degrees... tis spring around here 
In all honesty the second the roads are less than perfect my car wont be seen till they are perfect.
In all honesty the second the roads are less than perfect my car wont be seen till they are perfect.
12-29-05, 08:40 PM
#7
Wish I Was This Cool O.O
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After slip-sliding around in my 7 during the first real snowfall and 'winter conditions', and not being able to get over 70 without totally losing traction, I decided my 7 wasn't a wintercar after all =P The lack of a decent heater wasn't very comforting, either.
Be a lot easier to have two cars if you didn't have to worry bout insuring them all the time. Stupid.
Be a lot easier to have two cars if you didn't have to worry bout insuring them all the time. Stupid.
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12-29-05, 08:44 PM
#8
400WHP or bust
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Originally Posted by Terrh
looks cleaner than my fb was!
that's nothing you couldn't fix... probably easier and cheaper than finding a whole new shell too.
but yeah, this is why I don't drive my 10AE in the winter.
that's nothing you couldn't fix... probably easier and cheaper than finding a whole new shell too.
but yeah, this is why I don't drive my 10AE in the winter.
Are you on drugs?!?! LOL
That hole in the floors is the size of my huge fat head. It's junk, Trust me I want to save it but it's not happeneing.
12-30-05, 02:13 AM
#9
love the braaaap
Trust me, that is fixable. Ive done it on my 82. I actually ended up cutting out the whole drivers side floor and about 3/4 of the footwell and welded new metal in. Not the cleanest job in the world, but its solid as can be and the car will last another 10 years easily. Its possible to fix just about anything. I also fixed the worst case of bin rust I have seen on these forums. A good metalworker could fix that up and make it look like new again.
12-30-05, 03:00 AM
#10
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What I'd love to do in a few years is completely strip the car, throw it on a rotisserie (sp?) and have it media blasted. That way, it could be a true teardown and rebuild. Just rip out anything that resembles rust and put in new panels. POR15 the entire car, and never have to worry about the body ever again.
12-30-05, 01:28 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by rick_tj
What I'd love to do in a few years is completely strip the car, throw it on a rotisserie (sp?) and have it media blasted. That way, it could be a true teardown and rebuild. Just rip out anything that resembles rust and put in new panels. POR15 the entire car, and never have to worry about the body ever again.
LOL the WHOLE car is like this, and I don't want to look like Aaron, I'm not spending time like that on this pile of crap.
12-30-05, 04:02 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
POR-15 for the exposed parts, oil guard (yearly) for the hidden ones. 
Took two days to clean and prep the parts. That metal ready leaves a white paste on the parts. Wonder if its good to paint over it?
BUt back to the topic. No matter how clean you think the roads are now there is still salt on it. Mine does not see the road until three rains. LOL
Anyhow the smallest spot of rust means a ton under the paint!
now off to paint.....
12-31-05, 01:32 AM
#14
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why do people think that winter driving will **** up your car if you drive it in winter. guys as good as these cars are, you arent doing the world a injustice if you take care of it while you drive in salty conditions.
its a car. its meant to get driven. jeez.
i drove both my rx7s in winter and never had a spot of rust build up because of it. all i had was the stupid bubbly roof that was already there.
edit: notice avatar- ae in winter. never looked better.
its a car. its meant to get driven. jeez.
i drove both my rx7s in winter and never had a spot of rust build up because of it. all i had was the stupid bubbly roof that was already there.
edit: notice avatar- ae in winter. never looked better.
12-31-05, 02:17 AM
#15
400WHP or bust
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Yeah ok, this year is a BAD example, but YOU LIVE IN MARKHAM lol, you don't get snow. I pulled my car out in March, if I went over 75 I would have been in the ditch. I never said it was going to be an injustice, just if you want to continue to have a nice car another 15-20 years down the road it makes it possible.
12-31-05, 11:04 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Nismo Convert86
Yeah ok, this year is a BAD example, but YOU LIVE IN MARKHAM lol, you don't get snow. I pulled my car out in March, if I went over 75 I would have been in the ditch. I never said it was going to be an injustice, just if you want to continue to have a nice car another 15-20 years down the road it makes it possible.
Totally agree! Snow, black ice, slushy salt getting into everything, higher risk of someone hitting you. If you look at well taken car of summer only car and well taken care of year round car the summer only will be in better shape everytime.
(i just cant help driving mine with the wierd weather were having in calgary)
12-31-05, 12:34 PM
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OK but the engine tranny and everything is yours for 9500. I'll cover the rest of the FD ha. But no I just found a shell I should be picking up next weekend, Depending on weather and stuff. So this year I should have a fast car, and a decent looking one, No more huge sleeper I guess 
.
.
12-31-05, 02:47 PM
#20
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If you want to buy a winter FB find an FB that has been wintered most its life, and is in decent shape. I find that cars that have seen many winters and are decnt take winters very very well compaired to mint cars with the **** oil sprayed out of them, which have never seen winters.
01-02-06, 03:53 PM
#21
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by IAN
I started with this stuff. Hope it works out.
Took two days to clean and prep the parts. That metal ready leaves a white paste on the parts. Wonder if its good to paint over it?
Took two days to clean and prep the parts. That metal ready leaves a white paste on the parts. Wonder if its good to paint over it?
If it is a paste, then the part is still wet and must be allowed to dry before it is painted. Surfaces to be painted with POR-15 must be absolutely bone dry.
Also, the drying time between the first and 2nd coat is critical. It should be just past tacky before you apply the 2nd coat. If it is tacky, then you will get bubbles and pores in the paint. If it is dry, then the 2nd coat will not adhere (nothing sticks to cured POR-15).
01-02-06, 05:36 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The white powder is fine to paint over. Or you can blow it free with compressed air.
If it is a paste, then the part is still wet and must be allowed to dry before it is painted. Surfaces to be painted with POR-15 must be absolutely bone dry.
Also, the drying time between the first and 2nd coat is critical. It should be just past tacky before you apply the 2nd coat. If it is tacky, then you will get bubbles and pores in the paint. If it is dry, then the 2nd coat will not adhere (nothing sticks to cured POR-15).
If it is a paste, then the part is still wet and must be allowed to dry before it is painted. Surfaces to be painted with POR-15 must be absolutely bone dry.
Also, the drying time between the first and 2nd coat is critical. It should be just past tacky before you apply the 2nd coat. If it is tacky, then you will get bubbles and pores in the paint. If it is dry, then the 2nd coat will not adhere (nothing sticks to cured POR-15).
Wonder if I should go throught the trouble and add a nice thick third coat.
01-03-06, 03:38 PM
#23
Engine, Not Motor
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One coat is definitly not enough, but now that the 1st has cured there's a problem. Don't use the etching primer to recoat with POR-15. The primer is designed to allow a finish top coat or body filler and will basically eliminate the chemical bond between the next coat of POR-15. Wait until it completely cures and then sand down the area to roughen up the surface. That's about the best you can do now that it's cured.
01-03-06, 07:47 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
One coat is definitly not enough, but now that the 1st has cured there's a problem. Don't use the etching primer to recoat with POR-15. The primer is designed to allow a finish top coat or body filler and will basically eliminate the chemical bond between the next coat of POR-15. Wait until it completely cures and then sand down the area to roughen up the surface. That's about the best you can do now that it's cured.
