OMG, where to begin!

This winter will basibally be a repeat of last winter only more $$$ for the budget which i will deff. need since this year i'm doing it properly. No TT FC for me

plans are

-Rebuild S4 TII motor with S5 N/A rotor housings and S4 rotors
-Buy all new hard seals/spring and new soft seals
-Full bridge port and race exhaust port
-Knotch rotor housings
-Upgrade to 720cc primaries to go with the 1600cc secondaries
-Build a proper fuel system for the thing i call a fuel pump aka sump system
-Buy a greddy or HKS cast manifold
-Buy a FMIC (still undecided) possible pull an Azad and get something from jaja land
-Buy 46mm Tial or 50mm HKS WG
-Do some body work on car
-Buy Light weight flywheel (if money allows)
-Buy and install Master Power T-70 Q-trim 1.00
-Re-do Haltech harness
-Install Coolant/Oil pressure/EGT etc guages

Prey for ppl to walk into Part Source today before i die from boredum!!

 

My only plan is to get the repu done for summer.

 

Ian didn't say anything about me. I might have to leave the forum now. :lmfao:

 

hey Ian. I think you should go fo rthe water injection Idea it works great!! As for washing out the cylinders I pernsonally have no evidence of this happening when used correctly(ie. not to much water). The guys in the WRC are using them every day they race. Anyways Do some research and check out aquamists website as they are one of the leading maufactuers of water injection systems and can point you to some good papers and books from SAE (society of automotive engineers). My 2 cents.

 

To go turbo. getting a good deal on a jspec from JIMMY54. would like to rebuild it over the winter, but wont have the funds. So i'm gonna drop in the spec, hook it up to the wolf and see how it goes. my dadas paying for the jspec since the engine i just rebuilt last winter will end up in his fb. should be a pretty quick fb, and hopefully fc too. I might rebuild the jspec next winter if im not satisfied with it next season.

 

My plans:
Fix busted hood.
Swap in LS-6.

Or go all out and buy an FD.

 

^ I vote FD

 

I'm thankfully done with my car... just a few cosmetic changes that have to be done...

Over the winter I'll get my intercooler piping painted/chromed and 1 of the pipes have to be redone.
Other than that, nothing!! Woohoo!!!

If the budget allows it, I might get a rear diffuser... but we'll see about that...


Sounds like the rest of you guys are gonig to be very busy over the winter!!

Can't wait for the Ottawa cruise!!!

Lates,

 

My plan is to run 1:45 at mosport next year with stock 6 port engine.

 

I need the money I'd spend on Solo1 to put into the FB. I've competed in Solo2 for the last 3 years or so in my Protege5, but the wife won't let me do Solo1 in our only daily driver hence the FB project. If money allows I will try to do Solo1 in the FB by the end of the year.

 

I'll be there.

to do:
fix coolant leak and replace oil cooler
install T66 + manifold + wastegate etc...
reinstall boost controller
build dual walbro fuel system
solve intercooler problem
solve sunroof problem
wheels and tires
new brake discs/pads + fix whatever is fucked with the pass side rear
install strut tower bar in engine bay
upgrade ignition
retune car
along with countless other litttle things I should do to get the car perfect

This weekend I made and installed oil distribution block + loop line.

Hope to see everyone next spring!

 

Spring will be fun . And definitly next year also .

 

Gawd, I have like three "projects" that won't get done without me. Mine, Eric's and Joel's.

I've been thinking of the list for mine. I have parts that I've got my hands on but haven't even installed yet!:

'82 Short Rad (so that I can mount a FMOC)
E-Fan with Thermostat that I got from WankelingBeer
FC Ignition coil and "Transistor Trick" box with NGK BR8EIX plugs in Leading
New Battery Cables
Replacement Mallory Comp 70


Since I can't work on the car over the winter, I plan for next year:

Before May:
- Strip the entire engine bay down to the keg.
- Wirebrush said keg and simple green/scrub every inch of that engine bay.
- Paint appropriate bits (rad panels, etc...)
- Re-assemble engine bay including the install of all the above
- Probably replace the engine mounts while I'm at it.

Later in the year:
- I want to get the car repainted, the underside sandblasted and re-coated and all the body work done
- RB Exhaust money permitting

Jon

 

I'm still new to the game however:

1) I just took in the sub frames for media blasting and primer for my Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings
2) April: Complete tune-up, flushing replacing fluids by mazda as a starting point
3) April: Get a set of Azenis 615'2 or Yoko's EVS 100's
4) April: Take out PS unit as it isn't functioning now anyways
5) May/June:Get some headers
6) July/August:SAFC-2 with wideband and TUNED by the end of the summer if I can find someone loclly to install and tune it
7) Figure out how to lighten up my car
8) Have as much fun with her as I can!

 

Here is a brief list:

1) Reduce car weight by 200 lbs ( new rule change to include driver weight in total, no longer need to diet like mad. Boo yah.)
2) Finish and install Megasquirt on present motor, get it fully tuned before breaking in new motor
3) Finish building my 1/2 bridge 1991 13b and installing it in the car
4) building ITB Intake system and get it on the car
5) Repair fender, add winch, add tire rack to trailer and repaint
6) Lower rear wing 2 inches (new rules)
7) Rewire entire front half of car

In other words, a couple of nights work. If you add in all of the other work I need to do to the Tow Vehicle, my street car, my travel schedule and helping with the Cobra R program I should be divorced and living in a basement apartment with a sleeping bag and lawn furniture by spring.

 

Dont bother getting somebody to install it. It is very easy to install, no harder than installing a cd player. Im not sure where it was, but somebody will chime in im sure, but there was a write up on some site with pictures and everything telling you exactly how to do it.

 

haha, that is funny^

so 23racer, you are going with a megasquirt? hmm, we should exchange notes (rather me asking you questions, lol) once you get that setup.

just a question, and sorry if you have posted it i have a bad memory, you say you are doing a 1/2 bridge, so i assume you are going to be using TII irons to make a 4port engine?

i'm also interested in the ITB setup you will have. keep us updated

 

My plans are far less elaborate. I want to put in a MBC to try to compensate for the effects of the monster wastegate port. That's about it. If I have time I may look into the wheel hop issues or something cosmetic. I can't seem to find the time to do anything so my project is probably no more likely to be completed than anyone elses.

 

theory,
agreed with the simplicity mentioned. the SAFC manual gives you installation instructions, and the required ECU connections that are to be made.
the hardest part is just soldering wires, less than 10 of them...

as for that write-up, here is the link: http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/safc.htm

i can sell you my SAFCII for a lot cheaper than new, once my car is running on standalone EMS...

 

I've got lots of plans!

For RIGHT NOW, the plans are:
fix up my ghetto-*** winter beater FB. Part it out in the spring (the underbody is terrible).
Sell both my SA22's - get them out of the driveway (lost interest.)

Over the winter/spring/next summer:
Widebody Turbo Convertable: Fix the wiring (which is currently a disaster). Install S-AFC on stock ECU or go megasquirt. Get it running! Find/build an FMIC and get the front end put back on. Get the top working. Find wheels that don't need massive 4" spacers. Fix the paint if I can do so economically.

10AE: Jspec install. Megasquirt install. NO LEAN TUNING. FMIC. Suspension on all 4 corners, bushings as well. S5 TII wheels if I can find any. some form of 16-17" nice looking wide wheels if I can't. Fix the paint if I can do so economically. Do the brakes on all 4 corners, hopefully eliminate the noise on high-speed hard braking. Clean the ABS sensors. Quieter exhaust if I can find one that flows as well as or better than my current setup.

Find a winter beater for next year.

FIND SOME WAY TO PAY FOR ALL THIS! lol.

 

Just wondering why the H-BP? To still be within your racing regulations? I didn't think that a secondary bridge was that benificial to non-turbo cars.

I would get divorced to drive that Cobra R.

 

Sounds like all of you guys will be very busy.

I will be doing a complete refurbish of my interior... already in the process.

New Carpets
new seats or fix current driver seat.
Dye faded interior pieces.
new stereo bezel
new leather shifter and ebrake boots
replace any cracked vents etc..

next season will either be suspension or engine swap.. depending on money

 

The 1/2 bridge will be on my bearings thrashed 91 2000 KMs Mazda reman. I am going with the half bridge on the secondaries, TII Center iron (streetported), new S5 1/2 bridge Endplates (with a strong street port on the existing ports and a large RB racing exhaust port. This will be with 3 window bearings and FD Rotor Bearings.

This is not to meet any Series rules, but the hope is to make strong power in the 7500 - 8500 rpm range and leave some bottom end torque. As well I don't have to mess with ceramic apex seals and shortened engine life. I am only looking to make about 220 - 230 HP. When you combine the 1/2 bridge with the ITB's I should be close with a bone reliable motor.

Besides these are the only templates that I have (blush) been able to borrow. Thanks to Chris at CP Racing for the use of his templates.

When you combine the new engine power target, with the 200 lbs lighter weight my Lapsim Program shows that I should be in the 1:34's with no other changes. Now it will be up to me to maximize the package and drive it hard enough to get there.

I will keep you guys up to date with the build program.

 

the half bridge on an NA increases the range of the powerband, sacrificing the low-mid range, however it is suited for race use. intake timing and port area is gained, so of course there is power to be gained also.
to really take advantage of it though, a custom or IDA-style manifold is needed, hence the ITB setup...

many people, especially for a track-only car, do a 4-port half bridge NA and get pretty good numbers out of it...

 

I was just wondering why not a bridge on the primary, since it is a high rpm race car...