Well that was an experience (fluid change)
#1
Well that was an experience (fluid change)
1. Tried 3 different sets of ramps, finally the last one worked for me, the others were all too steep of an incline to clear the front lip (stock too).
2. I'm now covered in dirt (dirt garage floor), and gear oil. I'm not sure if my tranny fluid has ever been changed or not, but both plugs (and oil drain plug) came out nice and easy.
3. The tranny fluid was disgusting. Absolutely disgusting. I thought I was going to throw up. It was 3 different colors too. I'm not sure what that was about. It also took about 15 minutes to pump my gear oil back up in there with a hand pump.
Hopefully I can find someone who carries SAE 90 GL-5 special diff fluid, so I can do my rear end too.
-Rick
2. I'm now covered in dirt (dirt garage floor), and gear oil. I'm not sure if my tranny fluid has ever been changed or not, but both plugs (and oil drain plug) came out nice and easy.
3. The tranny fluid was disgusting. Absolutely disgusting. I thought I was going to throw up. It was 3 different colors too. I'm not sure what that was about. It also took about 15 minutes to pump my gear oil back up in there with a hand pump.
Hopefully I can find someone who carries SAE 90 GL-5 special diff fluid, so I can do my rear end too.
-Rick
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I used Crappy Tire Formula 1 75W90 full synthetic. You can use it in your transmission and your diff. When you changed your tranny fluid, you filled it until it was at the level of the filler hole, correct? If the car is on too steep of an angle it can effect the amount of fluid you put in.
#3
Originally Posted by Snrub
I used Crappy Tire Formula 1 75W90 full synthetic.
#4
Engine, Not Motor
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I've always used Amsoil 75/90. Full synthetic, pretty blue colour, and noticable difference. The downside of course is that it's $12.99 per quart.
Oh, and just for future reference: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/transfluid.htm
Also, instead of driving the car onto ramps, get a floor jack (Princess Auto) and jack it up, then place the ramps under the wheels.
Oh, and just for future reference: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/transfluid.htm
Also, instead of driving the car onto ramps, get a floor jack (Princess Auto) and jack it up, then place the ramps under the wheels.
#5
It's blue?! Now why didn't anybody tell me that?
Considering you only do maybe a couple of tranny/diff changes over the life of the car, that isn't a whole lot of money. Still, that's nearly twice the price of the Canadian Tire stuff (IIRC) and can you really say it's worth twice the money?
Considering you only do maybe a couple of tranny/diff changes over the life of the car, that isn't a whole lot of money. Still, that's nearly twice the price of the Canadian Tire stuff (IIRC) and can you really say it's worth twice the money?
#6
yeah, i've used the Canadian Tire full syn gear oil, seems to have worked fine so far.
what i found really did something for the transmission was this Lucas Oils manual transmission additive.
tranny noise went down, getting it to "slide" into gear without using the clutch became easier, and it actually ran a bit cooler...
i think it's time to do another change though, because my shifter is getting real hot again.
here's a little discussion posted not too long ago in the Canadian section:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=castrol
what i found really did something for the transmission was this Lucas Oils manual transmission additive.
tranny noise went down, getting it to "slide" into gear without using the clutch became easier, and it actually ran a bit cooler...
i think it's time to do another change though, because my shifter is getting real hot again.
here's a little discussion posted not too long ago in the Canadian section:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=castrol
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#10
Originally Posted by pd_day
I would stay away from GL-5 fluids.
GL-5 fluids have sulfur contains, hence the smell.
Sulfur attacks brass.
Our sychros are brass.
Sulfur = BAD.
GL-5 fluids have sulfur contains, hence the smell.
Sulfur attacks brass.
Our sychros are brass.
Sulfur = BAD.
but you are right, they do. in fact most gear oils contain sulfur, no matter what standard they comply with. the sulfur in the gear oils is not an issue in terms of corroding copper alloys though. sure, sulfur by itself is corrosive. but the sulfur is usually mixed with some other additive to make it stable. this sulfur compound does more good than harm.
there is always the matter of the sulfur breaking down at high thermal stresses, but gear oil is usually designed to remain stable. any active sulfur present won't do any significant harm.
more info:
http://www.noria.com/learning_center...?articleid=496
#11
But as we all are **** retentive to our cars ...... we have a 200000 page discussion about Oil Filters, will not get something WITHOUT sulfar to begin with to have one less thing to worry about...
Also, GL4 oil DON'T SMELL BAD!!! The Bad smell is from the sulfar.... so that would be an ADDED bonus!
Also, GL4 oil DON'T SMELL BAD!!! The Bad smell is from the sulfar.... so that would be an ADDED bonus!
#13
Originally Posted by pd_day
But as we all are **** retentive to our cars ...... we have a 200000 page discussion about Oil Filters, will not get something WITHOUT sulfar to begin with to have one less thing to worry about...
Also, GL4 oil DON'T SMELL BAD!!! The Bad smell is from the sulfar.... so that would be an ADDED bonus!
Also, GL4 oil DON'T SMELL BAD!!! The Bad smell is from the sulfar.... so that would be an ADDED bonus!
oil filters...hmmm, need to pick some up soon
#14
i used castrol syntech in my tranny paid like 9.99 a liter at walmart seems to be working well, i might try the amsoil next year, and if you have a LSD don't forget to get the friction modifier, i used the ford stuff it works good, but stinks to holy hell. i have heard the gm stuff is less smelly.
#15
Synthetics
I have used royal purples gear oil and redlines, both are amazing. I also have destroyed 2 tranny's due to cheaping out with quaker state gear oils.
And if you have bearing noise, or any abnormal transmission noises, get it fixed, dont try to rely on a better gear oil to shut it up, its only hiding the problem which will get worse!
But on that note, i am guilty of switching to a more expensive gear oil to hide a bad bearing, saved me for a few years but still failed.
Spend the money and get the good synthetic oils, especially if you drive hard, They make a huuuuuge difference in friction (lack thereof) and in transmission oil temps. Its worth paying a few extra bucks once in a while, and they are much prettier colours and dont smell like death compared to the dino oils.
And if you have bearing noise, or any abnormal transmission noises, get it fixed, dont try to rely on a better gear oil to shut it up, its only hiding the problem which will get worse!
But on that note, i am guilty of switching to a more expensive gear oil to hide a bad bearing, saved me for a few years but still failed.
Spend the money and get the good synthetic oils, especially if you drive hard, They make a huuuuuge difference in friction (lack thereof) and in transmission oil temps. Its worth paying a few extra bucks once in a while, and they are much prettier colours and dont smell like death compared to the dino oils.
#16
Rotoholic Moderookie
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
For transmission I use RedLine MT-90. It works well. I have nothing to compare it to but have heard alot of good things about it. The price sucks, but I only change my trans fluid once a millenium anyway, so meh.
Rear end, I used CDN Tire gear oil... 75w90 methinks.. the syn stuff in the gold bottle. I have non-LSD rear end so it's different from what the LSD guys use.
Jon
Rear end, I used CDN Tire gear oil... 75w90 methinks.. the syn stuff in the gold bottle. I have non-LSD rear end so it's different from what the LSD guys use.
Jon
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