Video Log Of The Restomodding Of My '76 RX-5 Cosmo (New Vid Jul 10/2024)
#402
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Engine, Not Motor
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Part 40.5: A Whole New World! - My 76 Mazda Cosmo Restoration
Part 40.5 of my '76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo restoration is here! And you know what that fraction means. Yes, it means I am joined by my dear friend Rose Cora Perry for this special update episode. The changes I mentioned at the end of episode 40 are happening now, so I thought it was time to release a little update as to what's going on and when the next video can be expected. It's still going to be quite some time before the next Cosmo episode but at least now you know why.
#407
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Engine, Not Motor
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That is a pretty cool RX-3. Shame about running it with a Microtech though. Love the blacked out bumpers/trim which I have planned for the Cosmo. I want to do black chrome, however after seeing this the paint looks very good as well. Decision time. Paint is certainly a LOT cheaper than black Chrome.
And with all of Jay's rotary experience, he still doesn't seem to know fact from myth. I wasn't aware that one had to keep the engine under 5K for the seals to last 100,000 miles. Learn something everyday I guess.
And with all of Jay's rotary experience, he still doesn't seem to know fact from myth. I wasn't aware that one had to keep the engine under 5K for the seals to last 100,000 miles. Learn something everyday I guess.
#408
New part is out and I've got a few questions and remarks:
1. why are you using the analogRead() and not the digitalRead(), your inputs are normaly on or of and nothing in between.
2. the pcb: the traces may be a bit thicker and watch out with the positive and negative trace and nuts/washers. Normally its not a issue in a tail light.
3. the input of the opto's can be better protected: put a zenerdiode of 15V over pin 1 and 2 of the opto, if the Voltage rises over 15V the zener will divert that the over Voltage to ground.
4. what did you use for the ERZ-V20D220 when I check suppliers its EOL?
Cheers keep them coming
Last edited by damic; 10-30-15 at 10:21 AM.
#409
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Part 41: LED Tail Light Conversion, Part 1 - My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration
Surprise! Part 41 of my 76 Mazda Cosmo restoration is here! Part 41 is the first in a two part episode covering the conversion of the unique Cosmo tail lights from outdated incandescent light bulbs to modern LEDs. I decided to pattern my tail lights after those of the 2012 Dodge Charger, creating an outline of large LEDs, and filling the rest of the lights with small LEDs. I know it's been a while since my last episode, mainly because I've been sharing my Cosmo time with the time spent working on my new house, setting up the new shop, getting my RX-7 back on the road, oh and those little things like job, food and sleep. So I chose the tail light project because it was something I could work an hour here and there on, without requiring a fully functional shop. So here, I cover deciding on the LEDs, designing the control circuit based on an Arduino ATTINY85, and then beginning the actual LED'ding of the tail lights starting with the reverse lights. Circuit boards are designed, etched and assembled, then the new LED illumination added to the reverse lights. In the 2nd half of this episode, we'll cover the brake and turn signal lights, building the controller and integrating it all together into a spectacular assembly.
Circuit schematics, source code and PCB designs in this episode can be found at:
Halo Style Arduino Controlled LED Tail Lights Schematics and Source - My 1976 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration
Circuit schematics, source code and PCB designs in this episode can be found at:
Halo Style Arduino Controlled LED Tail Lights Schematics and Source - My 1976 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration
#411
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2. the pcb: the traces may be a bit thicker and watch out with the positive and negative trace and nuts/washers. Normally its not a issue in a tail light.
3. the input of the opto's can be better protected: put a zenerdiode of 15V over pin 1 and 2 of the opto, if the Voltage rises over 15V the zener will divert that the over Voltage to ground.
4. what did you use for the ERZ-V20D220 when I check suppliers its EOL?
#412
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Man, is there anything you don't know how to make or do??
I like how you're using the cutting edge of tech to make a template (winxp machine)
Question, what happens when one of those LEDs give out?
I like how you're using the cutting edge of tech to make a template (winxp machine)
Question, what happens when one of those LEDs give out?
#413
Thanks Aaron, did a check on those ERZ-V20D220 and they are still in stock (Mouser) but limited with a warning that you don't use it in new designs (mass production), my mistake
@Neo: then that string of led's will go out.
@Neo: then that string of led's will go out.
Last edited by damic; 10-31-15 at 02:23 PM.
#414
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As mentioned, if one of the LEDs fails then all the LEDs in series with that one would also go out. For the reverse lights, that means one LED failure will take out two total LEDs. On the rest of the tail lights, there are series-parallel strings so one LED failure could take out up to 5 LEDs. But, when's the last time an LED failed? That's the nice thing about LEDs. If there was a failure, it would probably be a better use of time to etch and assemble another circuit board vs. removing the coatings from the existing board, finding the bad LED, swapping it, re-coating.
That sort of sucks for B&G. They are going to have to find a substitute, or change the Megasquirt V3/3.5 board to accommodate a new part.
#421
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That must be your philosophy for everything. That plus "if you want something done right, do it yourself". Certainly inspirational.
Now all we need are bumper stickers that say "What Would Aaron Cake Do?" (of course none of us would dare to put stickers on our cars... but that's beside the point!)
Now all we need are bumper stickers that say "What Would Aaron Cake Do?" (of course none of us would dare to put stickers on our cars... but that's beside the point!)
#423
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No reason you couldn't dye them white, apply the silk screening, and apply a solder mask to make them look as nice as a commercially produced board. Increases the work require significantly though.