Hey guys I figured i'd post this in here since its amateur hour let me know what you think

so the setup is an intercooler I bought for a steal of a price and was going to run front mount but figured HEY! why the hell not run a v mount.

intercooler core specs: 29" x 12" x 3" putting it at roughly 33 3/4" by just over a foot and 3 inches for the entire thing so this thing is massive. I'm going to use the stock rad but I am leaning it towards the engine. Everything else is in the stock place


first thing first i had to make a little room for the intercooler so I cut out the front brace that the latch bolts to and the top corners of where the rad mounted



Next Time:
my plan is to replace the front brace that i removed with either 3/4 or 1 inch square tubing this saves me an inch to an inch and a quarter

 

that size IC will fit without cutting the rad support out, you just need to get a 19" or 17" tall Griffin or AFCO dual pass rad. I've done ~ 8 like that over the years. Too late now but your putting the V mount into the danger zone if you ever get into even a slight bumper hit collision.

 

Hey, I'm monitoring this thread to do my research and gain more info. I'd like to see more pictures of how the front mount fits without cutting the support. Also I want to see the plumbing for the v mount.

Don't be shy...

 

LOL not shy just busy with school will post pics soon

 

there are very few 'V-mount' configured, pre-made IC's out there. IF you plan to do it right then find someone good with welding aluminum and doing some fabrication.

I think I've posted some V-mount pics up here in the past, ( few years back).

 

I didn't want to spend the money on a new rad Im on a tight budget, and its in no worse of a collision problem then a front mount.

 

A rotory is a like a high maintenance GF.. if you cheap out on her.. she is going to get pissed off, complain allot and possibly bite you in the ***. BE careful how much you ' budget' out of the build.. you may end up with a big PITA instead of big fun..

 

Are you saying you will be leaving the world of the stock NA?

 

for casual john the intercooler would not fit in with the support in there because the inlet and outlet were exactly inline with the shock towers and with it being three inch pipe it would not fit the piping

 

I'll post pics of my vmount in a week or two. Both of them.

 

Don't get me wrong...I like my NA because it is so...stock. Everything looks just like the Hayes book . Which means I can work on it myself. But sometimes I am tempted to reach for more power. And turbo is the way to go.
I also see that getting into the turbo game can be an endless loop of expense and upgrades. Which is why I am gathering information. That way I can define my goals, determine my approach, set my limits and when I'm done the project, I can measure the results.

If I go turbo, I would prefer an approach where I don't have to cut, but rather bolt on stuff. If things don't work out, I can unbolt and go back to the beginning. If I cut strut towers or remove supports, then I have gone past the point of no return. But that's just me.

Sorry for highjacking the thread...let me contribute.

Now here is a link to a Vmount for an FC by Rotary Works...
http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=INCK


I like it because the intercooler plumbing is shorter and simpler than a front mount. That should also reduce turbo lag over a FMIC. Also, the front braces don't have to be hacked. What I don't know is how efficient it will be. Definitely an FMIC is way more efficient at cooling, which is what you demand from a big turbo with gobs of power. But if my turbo goals are modest, then maybe a little vmount like this will do. Based on my turbo experience (zero) this should be good for 300hp with 250torq; but this would never support 500whp, right Aaron?

I believe Twins80s from this forum attempted this install, but got it wrong, upside down and backwards. I'd like to see it done right. And with feedback.

Now here is another approach https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...24&postcount=7 but I haven't seen it duplicated. I don't understand why it isn't more popular.

 

Jhon that last link you provided,

The reason why not many people do it that way is beacuse the intercooler tends to get starved for air and heat soaks

You can duct it so that the intercooler gets more air but then it takes away from the rad as well

its not the most efficient setup but it works

You need to ask yourself if you are going to track the car or not, If not a Front mount with some good ducting for the rad will be plenty esp for 300hp

 

I thought the stock mount position would heat soak more. Pulling it forward, in front of the engine moves it away from the hot spot. But at least the top mount has a hood vent to move the air.
And I thought for tracking a car, FMIC was preferred.
Maybe what I'm craving is just a noisy BOV to threaten the Hondas at a red light.

 

Not sure where your getting your info, ( I suspect SON..), but I've done quite a few of these V mounts. Some you've probably seen on SON, If your remember Dip's original S13 V mount the nose opening is even smaller then the FC's and the IC is ~ 6" from the head. I the proper duct work I did, he had to tape off his front opening to keep engine temps up when cruising on the hwy..
Done the right way, the V mount is actually the BEST way to handle heat; each heat exchanger is getting clean air, not like a stacked or H mount where the exchanger in the rear always gets heated air..

 

In regards to rotary works vmount,

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/rotary-works-vmount-inetcooler-896391/

fail.

Dori, Bwek is referring to the SECOND link John posted, which is actually an Hmount, hence the heatsoak. Trust me, he's not getting his info from SON.

 

SON really? Ca'mon thats a slap in the Face mang, Cause you know.. I like rotten Frame rail spaghetti cars.... and drifting Roarrrr Drift or Die...

Yes the H-mount Can Heat soak Esp when its just Easier for the Air to go down through the rad Vs making a 90 degree turn to go up the intercooler, Now if you added a sort of deflector to for the air to go up through the intercooler that wouldnt be So bad

but in terms of Simplist Id say a front mount You will get Good Low intake numbers, at the sacrifice of engine temps But if you have an aluminum rad you should be okay, considering you are only after 300whp

 

ok so i was working on it today and mounted my intercooler.

step 1: was to weld the bar in were I cut out the support
step 2: was to make some spacers so the latch lined up
step 3: drill holes for latch and the intercooler
step 4: mount the intercooler

looks good the intercooler is off level about half an inch but that wont be noticable when i put the sheet metal on and it gives me just enough room for the rad and e fan

 

You should really consider getting the intercooler inlet and outlet welded at 90* to the current position, it will make routing pipes much easier.

 

I was thinking that but I don't have access to a mig at the moment wanna lend your services?

 

Unfortunately MIG won't cut it there; and My houses electrical system can't take the high freq required for aluminum welding a lt the moment.

 

thats an hmount and its going to heatsoak.

 

^^Still waiting for pics of yours that you said you'd post... both of them lol.

 

its not an h mount the rad is being leaned forward therefor creating a a v where is the heat soak coming from? air comes in and hits the rad and the intercooler

 

you need a tig there my friend.... a mig would not cut it unless specially modified for alu.

hybrid